s'kat and the miscellania

Crannies Unite! It's time to relax, ya'all.

2007-12-12T17:58:00.000-08:00

I've made cinnamon rolls from scratch, and let me tell you: it is truly an act of love.

Dough is mixed, dough rises, dough is rolled just so, then coated with a buttery, sugary, cinnamon-heavy concoction that oozes when you try to (crookedly) roll it all up into a log.

Then you slice, place in pan, coat with more sticky, sugary glaze, and finally — FINALLY! — if your family hasn't already gnawed off their own arms in hunger, after only 30 minutes more, they are ready to eat.
(Like all good sticky buns, the tops become the crustily delicious bottoms.)

Undoubtedly, it will be worth the wait, as everyone erupts into gasps and murmurs of delight and awe between warm, delicious mouthfuls. And if you, covered in congealing spatters of sugar and dough, have managed to shake yourself out of baking shock, then you too shall taste and know the special joy that is homemade cinnamon rolls.

I'm not Martha Stewart. Baking anything more complicated than drop cookies or pound cakes tends to send me into a quaking mass of self-doubt and paranoia. Also, like most folks, I don't have half a day to spend in the kitchen, especially first thing in the morning.

Does this mean that I should be consigned to a life without sticky goodness? In a word, no!

In three words: Bridgford Parkerhouse Rolls. Yes, it's a frozen convenience product, and I'm so happy it exists! My sister-in-law turned me on to them when I was begrudgingly thinking of making cinnamon rolls for the holidays, dreading the inevitable five-hour baking marathon.

As a mom with two high-energy children, she had a whole slew of tricks up her sleeve, one of which was her sticky buns recipe.

Frozen Bridgford rolls, available in almost any grocery, are a quality product that easily adapt to any number of uses. Her recipe called for pudding mix, which isn't something I normally keep in the pantry, so I simply substituted in the filling from my original recipe.

It was so refreshingly easy. I'd already toasted and chopped my pistachios (which you can find shelled at Trader Joe's), so it was a simple matter of assembly. While the butter melted in the microwave, I coated a pan with a touch of butter, nuts and cranberries, then topped that with the still-frozen rolls.

The melted butter was mixed with cinnamon, sugar and orange zest, and then poured generously over the rolls. The few remaining nuts and cranberries went on top, then covered with a damp towel.

Popped into a cold oven, it slowly thaws overnight.

In the morning, whip off the towel; turn on the oven, and in a blushingly easy 30 minutes time — sweet, cinnamon-tinged sticky buns are at your disposal.

Easy Overnight Cranberry Sticky Buns

1/2 tablespoon butter
1 25-ounce package frozen Bridgford Parkerhouse Rolls
1/2 cup dried cranberries (divided)
1/2 cup toasted, chopped shelled pistachios (divided)
1 stick (8 tablespoons) butter, melted
3/3 cup dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt (if using salted butter, omit)
2 teaspoons minced orange zest

Coat bottom of 9-by-13 pan with butter, then sprinkle with cranberries and pistachios. Save about 1/4 cup of each.

Place package of frozen Bridgford Parkerhouse Rolls on top of nuts and cranberries.
elt 1 stick of butter and combine with 3/4 cup brown sugar, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 1 teaspoon salt and 2 teaspoons minced orange zest.

Pour over rolls. Strew remaining cranberries and pistachios on top, then cover pan with a damp towel. Place in a cold oven overnight.

Remove towel and turn oven on to 350 degrees. Bake for 30 minutes, until tops are browned and juices are bubbling.
Invert (carefully!) onto serving tray, scooping out any remaining glaze and drizzling over top.
Serve immediately.

Sun-Dried Tomato Dip

2007-12-10T17:34:00.000-08:00

Sun-Dried Tomato Dip

This creamy dip featuring sun-dried tomatoes, basil, and garlic tastes great on EVERYTHING!

Preparation Time: 10 minutes

1/4 cu p(s) oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and chopped
8 ounce(s) cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup(s) sour cream
1/4 cup(s) mayonnaise
2 clove(s) garlic, minced
3/4 teaspoon(s) salt
3/4 teaspoon(s) freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup(s) fresh basil
hot pepper sauce to taste

In a food processor, mix the sun-dried tomatoes, cream cheese, sour cream, mayonnaise, garlic, hot pepper sauce, salt, and pepper. Process until well-blended. Add basil, and continue processing until smooth. Chill at least 1 hour in the refrigerator before serving.

Yield: 12 servings

from Paige Healy

(original posting here)

Bittersweet Decadence Cookies

2007-12-10T17:21:00.000-08:00

Bittersweet Decadence Cookies

1/4 cup AP flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
8 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 cups walnuts or pecans, broken or chopped into large pieces
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped into chunks, or store-bought chocolate chunks

Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 350-degrees. Line two cookie sheets with parchment or wax paper.

In a small bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, and salt together thoroughly; set aside.

Place the 8-ounces of chocolate and the butter in a large heatproof bowl in a wide skillet of barely simmering water and stir frequently just until melted and smooth. Remove the chocolate from the skillet and set it aside. Leave the heat on under the skillet.

In a large heatproff bowl, whisk the eggs, sugar and vanilla together thoroughly. Set the bowl in the skillet and stir until the mixture is lukewarm to the touch. Stir the eggs into the warm (not hot) chocolate. Stir in the flour mixture, then the nuts and chocolate chunks.

Scoop slightly rounded tablespoons of 1 1/2-inches apart onto the cookie sheets. Bake until the surface of the cookies looks dry and set but the center is still gooey, 12-14 minutes. If you used parchment (or waxed paper), carefully slide the cookies, still on the parchment, onto racks, or set the pans on the racks. Otherwise, let the cookies firm up on the pans for a minute, then transfer them to the racks with a metal pancake turner. Let cool completely. Store in a tightly sealed container.

Note: These cookies will have the best flavour and texture if they are baked on sheets lined with parchmnet paper, or even waxed paper, which insulates them just enough but still allows the cookies to be a little crusty on the outside and soft within. Cushioned pans and silicone liners make the texture of the cookies too uniform for my taste. Pans with dark surfaces tend to scorch rich chocolate cookie bottoms before the centers are cooked.

Chocolate notes: I used a 70% bittersweet chocolate, rather than standard bittersweet. The change was to use 5 1/2 ounces of chocolate, increase the butter to 3 tablespoons, and the sugar to 3/4 cup.

Also, I completely forgot to add the nuts or chunked chocolate. These were like rich little chocolate brownie cookies.

from Alice Medrich's Bittersweet

(see original post here)

Burnt Orange Ice Cream

2007-12-10T17:13:00.000-08:00

Burnt Orange Ice Cream

1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2 tablespoons finely grated orange zest (from 3 large navel oranges)
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup strained fresh orange juice
6 large egg yolks
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Combine milk, cream and zest in 2-3 quart heavy saucepan and bring to boil. Remove from heat, cover and let stand for 30 minutes.

Combine 1/2 cup sugar and orange juice in another 2-3 quart heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over moderately high heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Boil, without stirring, swirling pan occasionally, until syrup becomes a deep golden caramel.

Remove pan from heat, carefully add 1/2 cup cream mixture (mixture will bubble and steam), and whisk until smooth. Add remaining cream mixture in a steady stream, whisking. Cook caramel mixture over very low heat, whisking, until caramel has dissolved and mixture is hot. Remove from heat.

Whisk together yolks, remaining 1/4 cup sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Add hot caramel mixture in a slow stream, whisking constantly. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until custard is thick enough to coat back of spoon and registers 170-degrees on thermometer; do not let boil.

Pour custard through a fine-mesh sieve into cleaned metal bowl and stir in vanilla. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate, covered, until cold, at least 3 hours.

Freeze custard in ice cream maker. Transfer to an airtight container and put in freezer to harden.

Notes: custard may be refrigerated for up to 24 hours; ice cream can be made up to 1 week ahead.

from The Gourmet Cookbook

(see original post here)

Italian Cheese Terrine

2007-12-10T17:01:00.000-08:00

Italian Cheese Terrine

Terrine
1 (8 ounce) package cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons butter, softened
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons pesto sauce
9 slices muenster cheese or mozzarella cheese, divided (1-ounce)

Basil-Tomato Sauce
1 (14 1/2 ounce) can whole tomatoes, undrained
3/4 cup chopped onions
1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon dried basil
1 (7 ounce) jar sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and chopped

For sauce: Drain whole tomatoes, reserving 1/4 cup juice.
Cook onion and garlic in olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until tender.
Stir in chopped tomato, 1/4 cup reserved juice, bay leaves, sugar and basil; bring to a boil.
Reduce heat, and simmer, stirring often, 3-5 minutes or until thickened; remove from heat.
Remove and discard bay leaves; stir in sun-dried tomatoes.
Cover and chill at least 2 hours.

For terrine: Beat cream cheese and butter at medium speed with mixer until creamy.
Add parmesan and pesto; beat until smooth.
Set mixture aside.
Line a 3-cup bowl or mold with plastic wrap, allowing edges to overhang 6-7 inches.
Diagonally cut 5 slices Muenster cheese in half; arrange cheese triangles in bowl, slightly overlapping to line bowl.
Spread half of cream cheese mixture over cheese; top with half of basil-tomato sauce.
Cut 2 slices Muenster cheese in half crosswise; arrange cheese rectangles over tomato mixture.
Repeat with remaining cream cheese mixture, basil-tomato sauce and 2 slices Muenster cheese Fold plastic wrap over layers, sealing securely; place a heavy object on top to compact layers.
Chill at least 8 hours or up to 3 days.

To serve: Invert terrine onto a serving platter, peel off plastic wrap.

recipe from Susan Stein

Notes: Be sure to drain the sun-dried tomatoes well... you can see in the photo where I didn't, and the terrine is slightly red. Also, it looks quite lovely to place fresh herbs and edible flowers into the bottom, before everything goes in. In this photo, I used pansies, basil and chives.

(see original posting here)

Of Thanks and Thankfullness-

2007-12-07T17:50:00.000-08:00

I am late, of course, but I'm still going to talk about November.

Or, more specifically, the wonderful feast that was Thanksgiving.

Dave & I went up to Richmond, joined the whole family for a spectacularly joyous meal. Folks, kids, extended family, cats and even a dog bustled and rustled and laughed around.

Business got down around noon. As people arrived at my sister-in-law's (Paige's) house, the turkey had been cooking for sometime: all the guests brought a little something.

I took an Italian cheese terrine. My friend Sue served this appetizer at a holiday a couple of years ago... the pretty colours and festive flavours seemed a perfect fit.
The terrine is pretty simple to make, but extraordinarily beautiful... and quite rich and tasty, to boot. I pressed a pansy and some basil into the bottom, but any sort of herbage or flowers would be just as pretty.

Once cut, it reveals its layers of pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and glorious cheeses.

This wasn't the only sun-dried tomato conglomeration on the block. Paige had also stepped up with a sun-dried tomato dip that was bursting with addictively delicious flavours.

Of course, there was indeed wine in plenty.

We started with champagne, then some more champagne, then moved on to Dave's Fife.

It was, natch, Fife'n good. :)

Along with great food & wine, there were plenty of great folk... mostly human, but there were also feline and canine representatives roaming about.
Who can resist such sweetness? There was much petting and patting going 'round.

Soon, the bird was cooked to golden perfection, oozing glistening, turkey-juice soaked stuffing.
It was time to eat.

We sat down... family far-flung and close, elbow to elbow. It was 70+degrees outside.

We laughed, ate well, drank well, and had a smashing great feast.

One would think that this would be enough.

But, hey- it's the holidays, right?

There was triple chocolate cheesecake. Folk moaned, swooned, then resolutely (and joyously) dug in. Seriously, how can you resist an endorsement like this?
I thought not. We were in such a state that I completely forgot to photograph my own dessert contributions... a thick, luxurious burned orange ice cream, buttressed by equally rich, bittersweet chocolate cookies. It was gorgeous, and together, incendiary.

The night ended colder than it began, and with such bursting full bellies, we quickly nodded out. It was a fabulous holiday.

RECIPES:

Italian-Cheese Terrine
Sun-Dried Tomato Dip
Triple-Chocolate Cheesecake (forthcoming)
Burnt Orange Ice Cream
Bittersweet Decadence Cookies

Comforting comfort food... in Portsmouth!

2007-12-05T17:31:00.000-08:00

Everyone needs it, and every culture has it: comfort food.

Jason Alley and Chris Chandler paid homage to that basic necessity in Richmond at Comfort: traditional Southern cookery with a side of panache. Now Portsmouth is home to a second Comfort — same name, same game.

The painted sign out front isn't lit, and my husband and I almost drove right past it. We parked and headed into the warmly-hued and extremely spacious dining area.

A bar, peopled with relaxing after-fivers, ran along the wall to the left. Free-standing tables, in varying clusters, filled the front, while high-backed wooden booths dominated the rear.

Our waiter tucked us into a booth, leaving us to look over one of the simplest menus I've seen in some time.

Appetizers, entrees and sides are listed in unembellished terms: tomato salad ($4), grilled pork chop ($17, two sides; $19, three sides) and fried okra (a “side” included with some entrees) are astonishingly back to basics.

Then our server returned, not only to tell us the evening specials, but of the preparation of almost every single menu item.

It was at first amusing, then confusing, to listen to the litany of 15-plus items described in detail. By the time he'd returned with the wine, we needed him to repeat several of our choices.

The 2004 Fosco Dolcetto Diano D'Alba ($35) was a familiar wine to us, chosen for its laid-back, easy drinking attitude.

It won't blow your mind, but it will go nicely with a variety of foods, including Comfort's house-made bread.

Hint: the corn bread is singularly spectacular, with a perfectly pebbled texture, and a toasty, nutty flavor.

After seeing so many spinach salads ($6) carried out from the kitchen, Dave and I decided to split one.

It was served divided into two portions, a nice touch that we appreciated. The spinach was dressed in a light vinaigrette featuring fat, lovely chunks of delicious bacon. Thinly sliced red onions, cold flavorless tomatoes and a hard-boiled egg rounded out the plate.

Dave took the theme and ran with it, ordering the meatloaf entrée ($16, two sides). The presentation is classic meat-'n'-threes (although he only got two sides), no fancy plating required.

Two fat slices of succulent meatloaf were a perfectly textured monument to mama's finest, complete with highly-flavored mushroom gravy. Steamed string beans made for a fine green, while the mac and cheese was a dense, creamy delight.

I had the grilled mahi mahi ($18, two sides), finished in a chile-orange glaze. The filet had a lovely light texture, and the slightly sweet, slightly spicy sauce did everything right to enhance the mild white meat.

I had a side of tender braised greens, rich with chunks of bacon. The grits were all right, but as I'd just sampled The World's Best Grits, Ever (see my review of Center Street Grill at dailypress.com/addareview) just a few nights before, my objectivity may have been slightly compromised.

It was quite a meal, and we ordered dessert to go. The dining room was quite busy at this point, and the banana pudding ($6) arrived before the receipt. It looked like a tart gone wild, with a crunchy crème brulee top, and an interior so creamy and opulent we dug in, laughing like little children with their first ice cream cone.

Sated and happy, we sped off into the night. The only thing missing was that Southern farewell: y'all come back now, y'hear?

Comfort
725 High Street, Portsmouth
Phone: 393-3322
Specialties: Southern style comfort food
Price range: appetizers: $3-$8; entrees: $10-$20
Hours: lunch served 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner served 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: somewhat noisy
Atmosphere: tattered casual elegance
Additional Information: daily specials, catering, large parties welcome
Star rating: food 4, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

Key
1 star- terrible
2 stars - mostly unpleasing
3 stars - pleasant & satisfactory
4 stars - very, very nice
5 stars - ultimate epicurean meal

Balls without Meat?!?

2007-11-28T13:47:00.001-08:00

“You can’t call them meatballs—there isn’t any meat in them!” Dave was firm, but I was firmer, and shook my head.

“What should I call them- eggplant balls?" I raised a skeptical eyebrow. "That’s just not appetizing-- no way, dude.”

There you have it, folks. These eggplant “meat” balls, if you will, haven’t a smidgeon of flesh contained within. Rejoice vegetarians! And carnivores, be prepared to step outside your comfort zone: both parties could agreeably break bread over these.

I first came upon this recipe shortly after meeting my husband. He’s unabashedly fond of just about anything involving pasta, meat and cheese. While I certainly don’t mind such dishes from time to time, the thought of yet another heavy dish of spaghetti and meatballs sent me scrambling for alternatives.

The source has long since been lost, but my little clipping has become tattered and stained over the years. The ingredient list is familiar, as are the scents coming from the pan. Eggplant is sautéed with garlic and onion, then processed smooth with herbs, egg and breadcrumbs.

As your eggplant may vary in size and moisture content, the egg/breadcrumb ratio may have to be adjusted up or down. In the end, the mixture should still be fairly sticky, and you may need to wet your hands to properly form the balls.

These cook in the oven for just over thirty minutes, more than ample time to simmer your sauce and begin prepping the pasta. When the eggplant balls have turned golden brown, I like to pull them out and let them simmer in the sauce for 5- 10 minutes.
Once the pasta is plated up with tomato sauce and cheese, it’s not easy to tell that these meatballs are entirely meat-free.

Eggplant "Meat" Balls

1 large eggplant
salt
olive oil
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 small red onion, minced
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 cup red wine
1-2 beaten eggs
1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/8 cup freshly chopped, mixed Italian herbs (I use oregano, thyme and parsley)
salt and pepper, to taste
1-2 cups breadcrumbs

Slice eggplant and sprinkle with salt. Let sit 10 minutes to draw out water. Rinse, pat dry and coarsely chop.
In a pan over medium high heat, add a splash of olive oil. Once warmed, add the eggplant, minced garlic, minced onion and red pepper flakes. As the mixture continues to cook and soften, add the wine, and cook until eggplant is completely soft.
Meanwhile, mix together the egg, cheese, herbs and salt and pepper in a bowl, and set aside.
Remove the eggplant mixture from the stovetop, and allow to cool slightly. Place in food processor with metal blade and process until smooth. Add in the egg mixture, and process again. Finally, add in the breadcrumbs until desired texture is achieved-- you may need to add an additional egg if too stiff, or breadcrumbs if too moist.
Form the mixture into about 2-inch balls, and place one inch apart on oiled baking tray.
Bake at 400 degrees until golden brown, flipping once, about 30-40 minutes.
Note: Simmer for just a few minutes in tomato sauce, and serve in place of meatballs with pasta. These are also great by themselves.
4 servings

Front 'n' Center

2007-11-28T13:35:00.000-08:00

Williamsburg has New Town, and now it has the Center Street Grill. A name like that evokes a friendly, casual spot, enjoyed by locals and out-of-towners alike.

Fresh raw bar? Got it. Fusion food that's still familiar and appealing? Got that, too. Throw in a side of good service, and I'm wishing that Center Street was just a bit closer to home — although the food is average.

Like much of the surrounding construction, there are plenty of windows that lend an open, airy feel. Yellow walls, wooden accents and sensibly spaced tables add to the overall aesthetic.

The menu is pub-lite: standards carefully and freshly prepared, often with a slight twist. Orange-basil butter shrimp are grilled and served with goat cheese foccacia and micro greens, while the filet mignon is slathered with black truffle-fois gras butter. Worry not, picky eaters: there are chicken tenders too, albeit hand cut, breaded in panko and served with a garlic herb aioli.

The waitress greeted my husband and me with a small, complimentary nibble: fresh, mild salsa cradled in crispy wonton skins. These vanished by the time she returned with a bottle of Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay ($40), a quintessential California chard that is not-too creamy and fairly well-balanced.

Dave's interest was instantly piqued by the Philly Roll ($7.25). Really, mine was too: golden egg rolls stuffed with thin shavings of rib-eye, meltingly soft onions and gooey American cheese. If I had a tacky cheeseboard of desire, these would be the crispy, meaty pinnacle. Excellent on their own, they were even better dunked into the accompanying white cheese-scallion sauce.

A girl needs her greens, so I had the house salad with sesame dressing ($4). It was the usual line up of fresh field greens, cucumber, red onion and (blessedly) nonrefrigerated cherry tomatoes. The sesame dressing, served on the side in a small pitcher, had an intense roasted flavor tinged with a smoothing bit of sweetness.

Dave's rotisserie chicken ($13.50) was a bit of a mixed-up plate. The half chicken, seasoned with Italian herbs, had great flavor, but was disconcertingly dry. The nutty wild rice suffered a similar fate, while the squishy broccoli simply produced an “ick.”

We both had the opposite reaction to my dish of shrimp and grits ($18). The over-cooked shrimp were forgettable and quickly pushed to the side, but the grits! Indeed, this is what every batch of hulled corn hopes to be made into someday.

Cheese and applewood bacon blended into one of the creamiest, most satisfying bowls I've ever had the pleasure to taste: garlicky, smooth and utterly filling. Dave, an equal opportunity hater of grits and polenta alike, not only finished my bowl, but ordered a side order to take home!

We lingered lazily over coffee ($2) and dessert ($7). The coffee tasted stale and burnt, but the crème brulee had that lovingly burned crisp crust. We tapped in and sampled the custard, a creamy rich mixture of white chocolate and Kahlua.

In a word? Satisfactory, as Nero Wolfe would say.

Center Street Grill
5101 Center Street, New Town, Williamsburg
Phone: 220-4600; Fax: 220-8566
Web site: www.centerstreetgrill.com
Specialties: continental, seafood raw bar
Price range: appetizers, $7-$10; salads, $4-$9.50; sandwiches, $8.50-$10; entrees, $13.50-$26
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 10 a.m.- 10 p.m. Sunday; bar open later every night
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: cigarette smoking permitted in the lounge or on the patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, all credit cards except Discover
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: upscale casual
Additional Information: daily specials, wine diners, private rooms available, seating for large parties, outdoor patio
Star rating: food 3 1/2, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

Sweet on Rosemary

2007-11-19T15:54:00.000-08:00

Cool winds strummed gently through the woody rosemary stems, waving them away from hand snips. The bush, slightly out of control, barely acquiesced in my attempt to tame it.

When I finally headed back inside, it was with a generous armful of fragrant sprigs. Some would be put to use with roasted potatoes, while others would join roasting chickens. Inevitably, there would be some leftover. While they could be frozen, something deep inside was twitching and itching: what would happen should the worlds of baking and herbology unite?

There had been several more-or-less successful experiments with brownies. The herb made such an interesting counterpoint to the rich sweetness, I was certain it would be at home in other baked goods. Luckily, Martha and her ever-growing omni-pire had just printed a sweet potato biscuit recipe in Everyday Food.

With sweet potatoes and rosemary at the ready, I soon had a piping hot batch of woodsy-scented orange beauties at my disposal. The texture was buttery and soft, tasting just as delicious as they smelled. They were fantastic with a smear of maple butter, and the few that remained stayed moist well into the next day.

With Thanksgiving appetizer duty just around the corner, it was time to whip up something seasonal, and with a decidedly Southern flair. Another batch was promptly baked up, sized just right for the hors d’oeuvre tray. Cut in half and stuffed with prosciutto, they were wrapped in tin foil, then tucked into a warm oven.

As guests began to file in, I set them out in a covered basket. The little pile of orange biscuits, flecked with rosemary and filled with dry-cured ham, quickly whittled away to nothing, as everyone mingled and relaxed. A little sweet, a little salty, a little savory: such are the warm and welcome pleasures best shared with family and friends.

Rosemary- Sweet Potato Biscuits

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons light-brown sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary (may begin with 1 teaspoon, and adjust)
6 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter
3/4 cup chilled sweet potato puree
1/3 cup buttermilk
1 egg yolk + 1 tablespoon heavy cream, mixed
Individual rosemary leaves

To make sweet potato puree:
Bake/boil/microwave potatoes until soft. Peel, mash and cool.

To make the dough:
In a large bowl, whisk together 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, 2 tablespoons light brown sugar, 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda and 2 teaspoons minced rosemary. With a pastry blender or two knives, cut in 6 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter (cut into pieces) until mixture resembles coarse meal, with some pea-size lumps of butter remaining. In a small bowl, whisk together 3/4 cup chilled sweet potato purée and 1/3 cup buttermilk; stir quickly into flour mixture until combined (do not overmix).

To shape the biscuits:
Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and knead very gently until dough comes together but is still slightly lumpy, five or six times. (If dough is too sticky, work in up to 1/4 cup additional flour.) Shape into a disk, and pat to an even 1-inch thickness. With a floured 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut out biscuits as close together as possible. Gather together scraps, and repeat to cut out more biscuits (do not reuse scraps more than once).

Baking the biscuits:
Preheat oven to 425°, with rack on lower shelf. Butter or spray an 8-inch cake pan. Arrange biscuits snugly in pan. Brush tops with yolk-cream mixture, and press on a rosemary leaf. Bake until golden, rotating once, 20 to 24 minutes.

Yield: 8 larger biscuits.
Adapted from Everyday Food, November 2003
Notes: These biscuits are great on their own, or slathered with maple butter. Alternately, once the biscuits have baked and cooled, split in half and stuff with prosciutto or ham. If you like, add in a dab of sharp mustard before putting halves back together. Wrap in tin foil and bake in a low oven until just warmed through. Serve immediately.

Hearty, filling & German (just like my husband)

2007-11-19T15:33:00.000-08:00

I almost missed out on the home-cooked German specialties at Deutsche Ecke, a new restaurant in Denbigh. On weeknights, the Newport News eatery closes at the surprisingly early hour of 7 p.m.

“On a good night, it's me, my daughter and a dishwasher — if I'm lucky,” explained owner/cook Karin Stephenson. That said, I understood why our meals suffered from a somewhat awkward pacing.

The restaurant held only one other table, a group of ladies lingering over coffee and desserts. Yellow tablecloths mimicked the warm color of the walls, while pictures of café scenes (and, oddly, enough, Parisian streets) lined the room. Out of place, too, were the fat scented candles burning at each table. My husband Dave blew ours out, but the intense cinnamon scent lingered for some time.The menu is short and to the point. After looking over the offerings of schnitzels, wursts and German side dishes, we quickly made our selections and stretched back in the very comfy chairs. Our waitress soon returned with two glasses filled with Paulaner Hefe-Weizen ($4.75), the large bottle being just enough for two to comfortably split.

We'd each requested a side German green salad ($2.95) to accompany our meals. It took some time, but when they arrived, I had to check to make sure they'd brought the correct dish.

The Boston lettuce leaves were indeed green, but drenched in a milky-white dressing. Canned beans, both red and green, were strewn on top, along with cucumbers, tomatoes and onions. I carefully speared a room temperature leaf and tasted: the dressing was a little sweet, and a lot sour. It was unlike any other dressing I've come across, and couldn't decide if I liked it or not.

We let our salads sit for a few minutes while our tongues (hopefully) adjusted. A few minutes later, I tried again with the same results. This tangy, different dressing was just a bit much for me, especially when combined with the pickled vegetables.

The waitress brought out my entrée, letting Dave know that his would be out in just a few minutes. I could smell the mushroom gravy on my jagerschnitzel ($13.95) before she even set it down. The large, flattened pork patty had been crumb-coated and fried golden, a beautifully burnished receptacle to hold the intense mushroom gravy. After squeezing a little lemon juice on top, I sliced into the schnitzel: fabulous texture and great flavor made short work of this German classic.

It was another 15 minutes before Dave's plate finally came out, with apologies from the server, and an extra sausage for his troubles. The bratwurst with roll ($7.95) was taut, plump, and far better eaten with knife and fork alone. Two mustards also vied for his attentions, with the spicy German brand coming out ahead — a little dab'll do ya!

Both entrees came with a large portion of potato salad. It was a formidable conglomeration of mashed potatoes flecked with chives, bacon and bits of red skin: creamy, hearty and filling, on all accounts.

Stuffed, but with duty in mind, I ordered a slice of apple cake to go. Warmed a touch the next morning, it was the ultimate breakfast escape. Buttery, rich and filled with layers of cinnamon, it was easily one of the best cakes I've tasted “out” in some time.

The new German corner of Denbigh and Warwick may be slightly out of the way, but don't let that hinder you. The food is authentic, as is the service. Like many German restaurants, the pace is slow and relaxed, while the food is individually prepared: settle back, get comfortable and get ready to be full.

Deutsche Ecke
14349 Warwick Boulevard, Newport News
Phone: 833-0711
Specialties: homemade German cuisine
Price range: entrees, $6.95-$13.95; sandwiches, $6.95-$7.95; sides, $2.95
Hours: 11:30 a.m.- 7 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 12 p.m.- 9 p.m. Friday/Saturday; 12 p.m.-4 p.m. Sunday
Alcohol: beer and wine
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: informal
Additional Information: catering available
Star rating: food 3, atmosphere 3, service 3
(out of five stars)

Spicy Italian Links o'Love

2007-11-10T21:11:00.000-08:00

"They" (whomever they may be) have this advice for women dressing up for a night out on the town: take off one accessory.

Minimize, simplify, beautify: perfect!

The same applies to cooking. Especially on chilly evenings when you haven't had the foresight to awaken early, and get to stirring together a bubbling vat of animal meat, juices & veg.

*dreamy sigh for such well-spent time*

Here's a get outta jail free card, good folk. ;) This one goes quick.

Sausages & Wine

Cut the sausages into 2 cm slices. Peel the onion. Chop the onion, celery heart and carrot into small pieces. Chop the parsley and sage, peel and finely chop the garlic, grind the cloves and crumble the chilies.

Heat a thick-bottomed frying pan, brush with oil, add the sausage and fry gently to release the fat and brown on each side. Remove from the pan, and pour away the fat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil to pan, then the chopped vegetables, and fry until lightly coloured.

Add the garlic, sage, cloves and chilli. Stir to combine. Add the drained tomatoes and the wine, and cook for 20 minutes over medium heat until thick. Return the sausages to the pan and simmer gently for a further 10 minutes. Season.

from River Cafe Cook Book Italian Too Easy

Island Flava

2007-11-08T10:10:00.000-08:00

What is Jamaican food? If your knowledge of it is limited to jerk chicken and Red Stripe beer, it may be time to check out Junior's Caribbean Bakery & Café in Newport News.

Located at the end of a new strip shopping center, the atmosphere is spacious, clean and inviting.

A full bakery case, loaded with cakes, quick breads and pastries, tempts the eye as soon as you walk in. The walls are bright and cheerful in yellow and green, while tropical plants contribute to the island vibe.

My husband and I walked up to the counter to study the menu. Sandwiches and fish were familiar, while rotis (a type of flatbread used to encase a stew-like filling) and baked patties (flaky hand-held pastries with meat or vegetable fillings) slightly less so.

As there was only one other diner, we had the undivided attention of the young lady who had come out to help us. She was happy to explain what some of the more unusual items were, offering samples to guide us along. After discovering that dine-in meals are available in large only, we opted to get the generous portions in take out containers.

Many of the stew-like foods and sides keep well in a heated serving tray, so it wasn't long before we were tucking into piping hot Jamaican specialties. Dave got the small oxtail ($7.50) with seasoned yellow rice (extra gravy? yes, please!) and mac 'n' cheese.

The oxtail was new to us, but reminiscent of osso bucco. The tender meat slid cleanly off the bone into a rich, dark broth. Carrots, garlic and onions made the stew familiar and comforting, while allspice — also known as Jamaican pimento — gave a complex, peppery warmth. The mac was hearty, little elbows doused in a thick cheese sauce that had obviously been made with love, butter and plenty of extra cheese!

I'd requested the goat roti, but found my box contained the curry goat meal ($7.50/small). I leaned in and inhaled the mingling odors. The goat, tasting like an almost beefy lamb, was so tender it shredded when I poked a fork into it. A golden curry sauce penetrated the meat with a savory, earthy smokiness, and mingled nicely with my side of rice and peas. I should also note here that the meat was interspersed with bones — not big rib-style bones, but smaller ones. In our litigious society, I'm glad to see that there are still folk who place a high price on taste — bones intensify the flavors, while helping to thicken the cooking liquid.

Both of our meals came with three delicious strips of caramelized plantains. Plantains look something like bananas, but are unpalatable raw. Cooked down slowly, the starches caramelize into sticky, sweet goodness.

I tried out the coconut water ($1.50) to wash this all down. To my surprise, it was almost unbearably sweet! Next time, I'll try the carrot juice, or Junior's own specially blended coffee.

I took a fat slice of the banana walnut bread ($1.50) to go. Sampled the next morning, it had a great scent, but the texture was very dry, remarkably so for a banana bread.

Junior's menu is focused on traditional Caribbean foods. Crafted from family recipes, everything is made in-house in this family-run restaurant. The hearty portions are sure to satisfy, while the price is just right. Step outside the paradigm and dig in!

Junior's Caribbean Bakery & Cafe
13175 Jefferson Avenue, Newport News
Phone: 877-2755
Specialties: Jamaican cuisine
Price range: sandwiches, $4.50-$5.50; weekday lunch special, $4.99; meals, $6-$12; sides, $1.50-$3
Hours: 9 a.m.- 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday; 9 a.m.- 6 p.m. Sunday
Alcohol: not currently
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: quiet
Atmosphere: fast casual
Additional Information: daily lunch special, full-service catering
Star rating: food 3 1/2, atmosphere 3, service 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

Pollo non loco

2007-11-07T15:02:00.000-08:00

It was the last of the sweet peppers, and high time to bid them a fond farewell.

I turned to my increasingly well-thumbed collection of Time-Life Foods of the Worlds cookbooks, and decided a trip to Spain would fit the bill.

One chicken, neatly parted out, joined a simmering concoction of tomatoes, garlic, onions and those sweetly softening peppers. While the recipe didn't call for it, a glug of red wine went in quite nicely, and dinner was ready in less than an hour.

Don't forget the bread for sopping!
Pollo a la Chilindron (Sauteed Chicken with Peppers, Tomatoes and Olives)

a 2 1/2-3-pound chicken, cut into 6-8 serving pieces
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
2 large onions, cut lengthwise in half, then into 1/4-inch wide strips
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
3 small sweet red or green peppers, seeded, deribbed and cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips
1/2 cup finely chopped serrano ham, or other lean smoked ham
6 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
6 pitted black olives, cut in half
6 pitted green olives, cut in half

Pat the chicken pieces dry with a paper towel and sprinkle them liberally with salt and a few grindings of pepper. In a heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet, heat the oil over moderate heat until a light haze forms above it.
Brown the chicken a few pieces, at a time, starting them skin side down and turning them with tongs. Regulate the heat so that the chicken colors quickly and evenly without burning. As the pieces turn a rich brown, transfer them to a plate.
Add the onions, garlic, peppers and ham to the fat remaining in the skillet. Stirring frequently, cook for 8-10 minutes over moderate heat until the vegetables are soft but not brown.
Add the tomatoes, raise the heat and cook briskly until most of the liquid in the pan evaporates and the mixture is thick enough to hold its shape lightly in a spoon.
Return the chicken to the skillet, turning the pieces about with a spoon to coat them evenly with the sauce. Cover tightly and simmer over low heat for 25-30 minutes, or u ntil the chicken is tender but not falling apart.
Stir in the olives and taste for seasoning. Transfer the entire contents of the skillet to a heated serving bowl or deep platter and serve at once.

Time-Life Foods of the World: The Cooking of Spain and Portugal

Have you voted today?

2007-11-06T11:03:00.000-08:00

Don't let the bad guys win... get out & vote!

Slip-slip-slippin' away...

2007-11-05T06:30:00.000-08:00

It was an Indian summer. Then as now, the season seemed to extend willfully past its due, with 90-degree heat and sweltering humidity. Then as now, I'd been pining for the promise of cooler temperatures: soups, stews and all things simmered low and slow. It's just not as much fun to roast a leg of lamb when you're sporting shorts and a tank top.

One night, there was a brief respite. The humidity cleared away as cooling breezes came whistling in. I looked hopefully to my husband: "Can we have short ribs tonight?"

If you're not familiar with them, beef short ribs are approximately 3-inch strips that come both bone-in and boneless. It's an extremely flavorful, although slightly fatty, cut of meat, and ideal for a long, slow braise in the oven. In a few hours time, the fat melts away and seasons the broth, while the meat turns tender, slipping easily from the bone.

If you're the patient sort, cook it the day before and refrigerate it overnight: the fat solidifies and is easy to remove. I've never had that patience, making due with a careful skimming session instead.

Dave didn't have a recipe, opting to wing it with simple, quality ingredients: Garlic, beef stock and wine made for a simple, potent braising liquid. Three fragrant hours later, the pot was transferred to the stove top, the tender meat set aside for a short time.

Mushrooms and prosciutto, cooked separately, were added into the broth. Twenty minutes later, it was thicker, richer and calling for its cooling kindred. He slipped the de-boned meat back in, and quickly brought everything back up to temperature.

We ate immediately, spoons and toasted batons of bread dipping interchangeably in our steaming bowls. Hearty and robust, the long-simmered goodness was the perfect foil to the slight chill in the air. At last, it was time to bid farewell to summer, and gratefully welcome a new season to our table.

Indian Summer Short Ribs

Salt and pepper, as needed
4 pounds very meaty, bone-on short ribs
4 cloves garlic, chopped
2 1/2 cups best quality beef stock
1/2 bottle dry red wine
1 container (8 ounces) whole mushrooms, sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
2 strips prosciutto, chopped

Pinch cayenne pepper
Dust ribs generously with salt and pepper about one hour before cooking.
In a Dutch oven (or any large, deep pot with a tight-fitting, oven-safe cover and handles) over medium-high heat, sear the ribs, in batches, until nicely browned.
Remove aside and tent with foil, leaving some fat in the pan
Saute onion and garlic until blended; return short ribs to pot, along with stock, wine and additional salt and pepper.
Place pot in a 350-degree oven for about 3 hours, until tender and falling off the bone.
Meanwhile, prepare the mushrooms on the stove top: in a nonstick pan over medium heat, add olive oil and butter until melted and mingled. Add the mushrooms, prosciutto and red pepper. Cook about 30-45 minutes, until mushrooms have softened and prosciutto has nicely crisped; reserve until the short ribs are ready.
Remove the Dutch oven to the stove top, and transfer the short ribs to a platter; tent with foil and set aside.
Add the mushroom mixture and 2 pinches of flour. Reduce the liquid for 20-30 minutes, until pleasantly thickened.
Debone the short ribs, pulling off excess fat as necessary. Return to pot, raising the heat slightly. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Once warmed, serve in a shallow bowl with toasted slices of bread.

and behind the scenes, patiently waiting for his own taste:

Remembrances Upon Things Recently Passed Upon Us...

2007-11-02T19:57:00.000-07:00

"There are a few rules you should follow if you want to be happy at bistros.

First, be humble. In a bistro one doesn't complain. At Lasserre the guest is always right (even when he is wrong). At a real bistro, only the patron is always right.

Second, don't ask for anything. In some bistros, theydon't bother to write a menu. They may bring you something, and you eat it, or else.

Third, no praise. The patron knows his is the best place on earth; he doesn't need you to confirm it. At a famous restaurant they are always glad when you compliment them. Not at a true bistro.

They know they are good."

-Remembrances of Things Paris, Home Away from Home by Joseph Weschberg

NOpus 9

2007-11-01T17:24:00.000-07:00

Opus 9 Steakhouse is Williamsburg's answer to Port Warwick's Schlesinger's, its sister restaurant. Located in the ever-growing New Town complex, there is an immediate sense of familiarity: warm wood tones partner with muted shades of blue and green, while compartmentalized dining areas create an intimate, cozy atmosphere.

In a restaurant where the average entrée is $30, the mood is set to be celebratory. As Dave and I were joining another couple for dinner, that's just what we did, starting with a refreshing bottle of Jordan “J” Brut ($69 full price). The bubbles were crisp and delicious, and almost better than the taste was the price: Sundays are half off all bottles of wine.

Service was prompt, appropriate and professional, unwavering even as the dining room grew crowded. Our server presented us with a basket of warm, house-made rolls and a portion of creamy honey butter to nibble on until our courses began to arrive.

Salads came first, the “Opus” for me ($4.50) and the hearts of iceberg ($3.75 with entrée) for Dave.

My salad — composed of field greens, cucumbers, red onions and shaved carrots — was rather wilted, but the tangy dressing was quite flavorful.

Dave's mass o' wedges was crisp and massive, sprinkled with chopped onions and sweet peppers.

The blue cheese dressing wasn't the best, far too cool and tasting very mild.

Meanwhile, the Chesapeake Bay oysters Rockefeller ($11.95) came out.Three oysters are split in half, topped with a creamed spinach mixture, and broiled 'till the Parmesan turns golden. You eat with your eyes, and the presentation was beautiful, but the flavor, though rich, was somewhat flat.

Both of my menfolk ordered prime steaks, eager to taste the house specialty. Our companion got the cowboy steak (18 oz./$36.95), a rib-eye that is served bone-in.

The server produced a penlight and invited him to cut and make certain it was cooked appropriately. It was, and had a nice buttery flavor, but ultimately wasn't as impressive as the price would lead one to believe.

Dave's, on the other hand, was everything a prime steakhouse steak should be: sexy, succulent and melting with abundant meaty juices.

It was magnificently cooked, that is to say: little had been done to alter the rosy pink perfection. Quality ingredients and a light touch prove once again that minimalism in the kitchen can be a good thing.

The side dishes for both men, included with the entrees, were red bliss garlic mashed potatoes. These small dishes, just the right size, were creamy bastions of deliciousness.

I had the seafood trio ($27.95), featuring fennel-seared scallops, Parmesan-coated shrimp and a jumbo lump crab cake. The three scallops were fat, but tough: its fennel crust held a burnt bitterness that the fresh pesto at its base did little to augment. The shrimp followed suit, tasting tough and somehow astringent. The crab cake was in truth a small pile of outrageously fresh jumbo lump, arranged next to a spicy Creole remoulade. After my first bite of this, I knew I should've gone with the crab cakes, after all.

My other dining companion ordered the vegetarian pasta ($18.95), with oil served on the side. The penne was dense and rubbery, while the bright mélange of vegetables — including zucchini, summer squash, portobello mushrooms, asparagus and sweet peppers— were uniformly bland and unseasoned.

We both chose the sweet potato as an accompaniment. It was fat and perfectly cooked, the bright orange flesh yielding easily to our questing forks.

We contemplated the dessert menu, which held a customary line-up of crème brulee, cheesecake and flourless chocolate cake. I would have been interested in sorbet or ice cream, but as both were Haagen-Dazs brand, opted to finish up with an espresso ($2.25) and call it a night.

Opus 9 has grand culinary intentions, and shows great attention to décor and service. The food, just like the opera of life, runs the gamut from heady highs to disappointing lows. Considering the price, the lunch menu is a viable option to test the waters without emptying your wallet.

Many of the dinner items are available, in smaller portions, along with sandwiches, burgers and waist-friendly salads.

For you online readers, or for local folks who haven't had seen this in print: check out reader comments HERE, and feel free to add your own. :)

Opus 9 Steakhouse
5143 Main Street, New Town, Williamsburg
Web site: www.opus9steakhouse.com
Phone: 645-4779 Fax: 645-2950
Specialties: prime steaks and seafood
Price range: appetizers, $7.95-$24.95; soups/salads, $$5.50-$8.95; seafood, $23.95-market price; steaks, $22.95-$48.95; chops, chicken & pasta, $18.95-$41.95; sides, $5.95-$7.95
Hours: lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday; dinner, 4:30-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 4:30-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 4:30 p.m.-9 p.m. Sunday; brunch, 11 a.m.- 2:30 p.m.
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: permitted only on the outdoor patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: casual elegance in a cozy, club-like atmosphere
Additional Information: extensive wine list, private dining areas for large parties, daily specials
Star rating: food 2 1/2, atmosphere 4 1/2, service 4
(out of five stars)

Corner Pocket? Scratch.

2007-11-01T17:02:00.000-07:00

The Corner Pocket has a sound 15-year history in Williamsburg. Four years ago, owner Lynn Alison decided to take it up to the next level, becoming one of the first tenants to open in the New Town development just outside the city.

With an upscale, classy vibe, this incarnation has proved welcoming to families and older folk alike. Has the food followed suit?

My husband, Dave, and I met another couple on a balmy weeknight. Eschewing the casual cafe-style seating indoors for the lively atmosphere on the umbrella-studded porch was a no-brainer, and our pleasant hostess left us to look over menus. The smaller "snacks" option features appetizer-styled food, while the more extensive dinner menu showcases salads, sandwiches and a variety of comforting entrees with modern twists.

After a short chat with our amiable server, we decided to share a bottle of the Concannon Petite Sirah ($30). After one fierce, first swallow, I let it sit until there was some food to tame those tannins. All of the entrees are accompanied by house salads, which arrived first. These were surprisingly large and fairly fresh, composed of crisp greens, grape tomatoes, sliced cucumbers and slivers of red onion. While I enjoyed the house vinaigrette, Dave's response to his blue cheese dressing was “meh,” while one of our friends was unable to determine what, exactly, his dressing was supposed to be.

Round two rolled out in timely fashion. Us girls shared a bowl of butternut squash soup ($5.50), the daily special. It was thick and hearty, with a touch of nutmeg nudging the flavor in just the right direction. While it could have used more salt, this was pleasant and filling.

The men folk took their duties seriously, turning to the “snacks” menu for inspiration, trying the jumbo chicken wings ($7.95). These were indeed larger than their average brethren, fried in a cornmeal batter and covered in a mild sweet chili sauce. This sounded good on paper, but was ultimately unimpressive: even the accompanying ranch dressing was disconcertingly bland.

Dave ordered the fried mac 'n' cheese ($5.95). As the menu promised, these were four perfectly symmetrical breaded triangles of homemade mac 'n' cheese. A bite instantly revealed the dry, bland interior, while the sweet tomato-basil dipping sauce did little to liven it up.

The men were once again like-minded, both choosing the buffalo meatloaf ($16.75) as entrees. The sliced meatloaf was blackened from the grill, and looked surprisingly steak-like. I typically enjoy buffalo for it's beefier-than-beef flavor, but this dense slab seemed more dry Salisbury steak than home-on-the-range goodness. This came with a mound of bland, mashed sweet potatoes, and a roasted Roma tomato puree that tasted familiar — quite like the dipping sauce from Dave's mac 'n' cheese. The frizzled sweet potatoes on top were great.

I had the Corner Pocket jambalaya ($13.25), that classic Cajun stew of rice, sausage, shrimp and chicken. I dug into the generously portioned dish, immediately noticing the distinct lack of seasoning and moistness. After a dry bite each of chicken and shrimp, I pushed the dish aside.

My other dining partner ordered the wild mushroom frittata ($14.95), savoring the thought of wild mushrooms, leeks, roasted tomatoes and Asiago cheese. The reality was a bit different: the eggs had coalesced into an unpleasantly rubbery brown mass that supported a minimalist duo of portobello mushrooms.

Our waitress returned, obviously concerned that we'd each taken no more than a couple of bites. She correctly offered to have our meals re-made, get us something different, or have the entrees removed from the check. In the end, we were all tired after a long day, and elected to simply take the bill and return home.

I really liked the atmosphere of Corner Pocket, and wouldn't hesitate to return for the sleek, well-maintained pool tables, or to socialize while listening to one of the many fine bands perform. I respect that they try to make a large portion of their menu items in-house, but the food — for all of us — was a miss.

The Corner Pocket
4805 Courthouse Street, New Town, Williamsburg
Web site: www.thecornerpocket.us
Phone: 220-0808
Specialties: upscale American pub food
Price range: snacks $4.50-$9.95; soup/salad $3.50-$12.25; entrees: $13.25-$25
Hours: 11:30 a.m.- 1 a.m. Monday-Tuesday; 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m. Wednesday-Friday; 4 p.m.- 2 a.m. Saturday; 4 p.m.- 1 a.m. Sunday
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: permitted after 10 p.m.; smoking/non-smoking sections on the outdoor patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards, local checks
Noise level: somewhat noisy
Atmosphere: casual upscale cafe and billiards room
Additional Information: daily specials, live music, billiards events, outdoor dining
Star rating: food 2 1/2, atmoshpere 3 1/2, service 3
(out of five stars)

Bringing the Mac Back

2007-10-28T08:53:00.000-07:00

Last week, Dave & I hauled the mac out- Southwestern-style, yo.

It began with poblanos tossed on the stovetop for some early night roasting:

Once blackened, softened, and cooled, I chopped and double-checked my Cafe Pasquale's recipe: Things quickly got interesting:
Curly pasta cushioned loads o' butter, milk, cheddar, chiles, sharp mustard and a sprinkling of paprika. The crowning touch was shreds of prosciutto on top.
Baking magic ensued:
As you can see, this amazing beauty had me cocking my head sideways like a curious, hungry owl. This mac wasn't gooey like most, but stiffer, sharper and easily hacked into insouciant wedges of piquant goodness.

Hubba, hubba!

What a delightful way to bridge the gap between seasons!

Baked Macaroni and Cheese

5 teaspoons sea salt
1 pound corkscrew or elbow pasta
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 poblano chiles
1 1/4 pound extra-sharp aged Cheddar cheese, grated
3 tablespoons prepared yellow mustard
2 teaspoons finely ground black pepper
3 cups whole milk
2 pinches of paprika

Fill a large stockpot with water, add 3 teaspoons of the sea salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and boil for 8 minutes. Check for doneness and drain in colander.
Preheat the oven to 375-degrees. Grease a 9x13-inch glass baking dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter, leaving any extra bits divided among the four corners of the pan.
Roast the poblano chiles over an open flame under a broiler, grill or stovetop until blackened all over, turning with tongs to ensure even blackening. Let the chiles "sweat" in a plastic bag for 10 minutes, or until cool enough to handle. Stem and peel by scraping with a knife or rubbing in a terry-cloth towel, then scrape out the seeds and cut the chiles into thin strips. Set aside.
To assemble the casserole, place one-third of the the cooked pasta in the baking dish and sprinkle on one third of the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt and one-third of the cheese. Smooth on 1 tablespoon of the mustard, then lay half of the chile strips over all. Scatter bits of one -third of the remaining 5 tablespoons of butter, then sprinkle on one-third of the black pepper. Repeat the process for the next two layers.
After the pasta, salt, cheese, mustard, butter and black pepper have been spread onto the third layer, pour the milk over the casserole, then evenly sprinkle the pinches of paprika over the top.
Bake for 1 hour, or until the top layer is crispy and brown. serve hot from the oven on warmed plates.

Serves 6
from "Cooking with Cafe Pasqual's: recipes from Santa Fe's renowned corner cafe", by Katharine Kagel

Lone Food, not Lonely

2007-10-21T15:08:00.000-07:00

As a busy, rock-star library clerk, I don't often eat alone. The exceptions being when my husband heads out to race motorcycles, or has an in-house poker night.

Then, I spread my wings. Often it takes the form of seafood, usually shrimp, mussels or scallops (anathema to my husband). Sometimes, I go for basic vegetarian fare, a stir fry of some sort.

One night, as Dave was counting out poker chips (and clearing the large dining room table from excess cat hair), I remembered plunking something into the freezer that could be quite useful.

Paging Dr. Praeger!

No, I'd never heard of him either. He's apparently some healthy-crunchy kind of dude, who just happened to have a selection of freezer-stable good-for-ya goods. Notably, "spinach cakes".Sounds appetizing, yes? But I'm telling you- bake one of those babies, ladle a softly poached egg atop, and sprinkle with a chopped, garden-fresh tomato and, well, dinner on poker night ain't so bad.

Hmm, that's a little dull, isn't it? Lets brighten things up a bit.
Tasty, satisfying, and all done in under 20 minutes. Brilliant, babes!

Poached Egg with Salsa, Tomatoes & Spinach Cakes

2 spinach cakes (or any sort of savoury cake, prepared and heated)
1 egg, softly poached
medium green salsa
chopped ripe tomatoes
Parmesan cheese, shredded

Prepare cakes according to package directions.
Meanwhile, poach an egg. While a lot of folk don't seem to care for it, I use the whirlpool method; for single eggs, it seems to work out just fine.
Lay one cake on a plate and cover with salsa, chopped tomatoes and Parmesan.
Cover with another cake, repeat and top with poached egg.
Poke egg, inhale the heady goodness, and dig in.

Three Easy Pieces

2007-10-10T19:13:00.000-07:00

Sometimes, a girl needs to have something ready and available at last moments notice. That is where our friend Frozen Puff Pastry comes in.

[In all disclosure, I've never made puff pastry from scratch, but I've seen it done, and tasted the delicious results. I've also sampled frozen puff pastry. It's more than adequate, so it's no wonder I've become BFFs with Pepperidge Farm Puff Pastry.]

While quite useful in breakfasty applications, puffy pastry swings easily to the savoury side of things, appetizers in particular. That old 70's favourite, "PINWHEELS" shines especially bright in it's glistening, butter-fat light.

I was recently requested to bring some appies to a dinner party. Two boxes of puff pastry that had been languishing in my freezer were quickly put to use.

First up, an Italian-esque spin with roasted tomatoes, pesto and fresh mozzarella:
Next, a roasted vegetable tapenade with shredded piave cheese:

Finally, I wanted something both savoury and a touch sweet. That's how I ended up with red onion, fig, walnut & mascarpone pinwheels:

I thought that perhaps a few people would like these, but they turned out to be the surprise hit of the night. "You can taste every ingredient!"

The holidays are just 'round the corner, folks. I'm just sayin'.

Pinwheels! Puff Pastry Appetizers

1 package puff pastry, thawed.

try:
pesto + oven-roasted tomatoes + fresh mozzarella (excess moisture squeezed out)
or:
prepared roasted vegetable tapenade + shredded piave cheese
or even:
prepared red onion & fig w/ porto wine tapenade + mascarpone cheese + diced toasted walnuts

egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water

Unfold puff pastry, and roll out to approximately 14x11-inch rectangle.
Spread evenly with pesto or tapenade, then layer remaining ingredients on top.
Roll tightly jelly-roll style, and place in the freezer for 15-20 minutes to firm up.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Remove pastry from freezer. Slice thinly, place on baking tray, and brush with beaten egg. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until slices have puffed and nicely browned.
Cool briefly. Serve warm, or at room temperature.

note: I get my prepared tapenades from Harris Teeter.

Not Top Chef

2007-10-10T08:37:00.000-07:00

I've heard many great things about the Cogan's in Norfolk, but never made it over. So, it was with great excitement that I discovered a second location newly opened in the Harbour View development in Suffolk.

The draw is two-fold: pizza and beer. With that in mind, I grabbed two of my favorite men-folk to test the waters. We met up on Cogan's patio, where they were soon narrowing their choices on the latter. With 100 bottled and 6 on draft-- no easy feat! Our server soon returned to take our drink orders. She also added that the fryer was down-- this pretty much excluded the appetizers, with the exception of bread sticks.

They were out of the first two beers Jeff ordered, but finally came through with a Rogue draft ($3.50). Dave crafted an homage to the black & tan: a mixture of Guinness ($5) and Strongbow hard cider ($3.50). I settled for a simple glass of St. Michelle riesling ($4), which was quite light and nice for just sipping.

After all the confusion, our server was ready for our orders. I asked if a large salad would be enough to split three ways? "Oh, we don't have any salads tonight," she said, hoisting her pad. We laughed in amazement, and Dave asked how on earth does one run out of salad. She told us they had everything-- except the lettuce.

Our choices were becoming increasingly limited, so we simply ordered a couple of different pies. While she gathered the menus, I glanced over at the bar, visible through long windows. Crimson red walls and dark furniture gave it that upscale-dive kind of ambience, and was fairly humming with people laughing, smoking and drinking. There was also a tv in the corner, which proved useful as our wait stretched slowly along.

At the mid-point, I headed inside to use the bathroom. The dining room was very open and colorful, while the rear was lined with pool tables in a funky, space monkey vibe. I also noticed that there was only one table, a six-top that had been occupied since we first arrived.

Almost an hour after being seated, our pizzas finally came. A girl can forgive a lot when a piping hot pie delivers on its promise of goodness. Unfortunately, this pizza reneged.

The Pirate's Booty ($19) looked great, the crust golden and puffy. Pepperoni, sausage, salami, onions, black olives & mushrooms snuggled into their double sauce and cheese bed. The men pulled out their slices and dug in. Then stopped, and flipped the slice over.

The bottom was burnt. Not a little, and not charmingly charred in a spot or two- it was pitch black:

I turned to the second pie, the Mediterranean ($15). With a name like that, you won't be surprised to find spinach, artichoke hearts, kalamata olives, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted garlic and feta.

The surprise lay beneath, another unappetizingly blackened bottom. I took a bite.

The toppings where nice on their own, but the incinerated crust obliterated any other flavor .

Our server came by to see how things were. Upon being told that both pies were burned, she grabbed the stainless steel pie server, and peeked under both crusts.

"Oh yeah," she said, "that's pretty burned. They've been coming out of the kitchen like that all night. I don't know what's going on back there!" With a shrug, she went back inside. Needless to say, we didn't finish the pizza, or take any home.

This unfortunate night reminds me a lot of CJ on season 3 of Top Chef. I liked the guy, found him friendly, humble and enjoyable. I wanted him to win, I wanted him to do well. Yet, during his last challenge, he sent out food that was blackened and inedible. He cooked it, he knew the problem, but still sent it out. The judges did what they had to when presented with inedible food-- they sent him home. In the restaurant business, you're as good as the last meal you send out.

Cogan's... please pack your knives, and go.

Cogan's Harbour View
5860 Harbour View Boulevard, Suffolk
Phone: 686-9500 Fax: 686-9412
Specialties: pizza, subs & pasta
Price range: appetizers: $3-$8.50; salads: $3-$8; pasta: $6-$8.50; sandwiches: $5.50-$7.50; subs: $6.50-$7.50; pizza: $14-$19
Hours: 11:30 a.m.- 9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m. Friday/Saturday
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: smoking permitted in the bar, patio and part of the dining area
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational- noisy
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: large beer selection, delivery ($12 minimum), large orders welcomed (call ahead)
Star rating: food 2 1/2, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 2
(out of five stars)

Hibiscus, reconsidered.

2007-10-03T13:27:00.000-07:00

I think that the foodie blues visits all bloggers in some form, from time to time. Sometimes, no matter what you do, they stubbornly refuse to be cured, neither by eating food high-falutin', nor home-spun and comforting.

That's where my boy Kevin comes in.

When that cheeky impresario of Acme Instant Food recently revealed himself to be in the thralls of such a malaise, he immediately took action.

Thus sprang forth... Acme Instant Ingredients!

This one-off event had random bloggers exchanging a unique ingredient. The recipient cooks, photographs and blogs the resulting dish.

My partner was Kevin, and that's how a packet of Trader Joe's Dried Sweetened Hibiscus Flowers became my new culinary muse.

(I photographed these unique little buds, but lost them somewhere in my computer.

Luckily, Gastrokid let me borrow this image from his own experience . )

They reminded me of something, and I struggled to think of what... what could it be?

An ... octopus, maybe ?

Nah, that's just silly. More of a Davy Jones, that one.
Hmmmm.... I'm still not feelin' it. Zoidberg, perhaps?

No, wait- I've got it! Success at last:
Baby octy, I could just eat you up!

Oh- eating. Yes, let's get on with it.

The strange-looking, but engaging, candied hibiscus blossom. Miss Mary (her photo is above) has yet another fantastic picture of these strange looking things. I tasted one, and it was like an odd fruit leather: sharp, intense, sour and fruity. I've never been one for fruit roll-ups, so it didn't really appeal to me. I wondered what I could do with them.

Google searches revealed mostly tea-type drinks.

I'm not big on tea, so kept looking. One day, at work, someone donated a book that contained the recipe for something dubbed a cassata.
This wasn't a true cassata, merely an ice cream-flavoured salute to this traditional Italian dessert. It sounded good, and was easy enough to make. The flowers were soaked in rum, then added to thickly whipped cream. In layers, raspberry sorbet, the cream and vanilla ice cream are tucked into a loaf pan until frozen. I sliced, then spinkled with a little dark chocolate and some toasted pecans.
It looks like Neapolitan, but tastes like a candy-coated fairy dream.

I'd rather thought that I wouldn't like the cream layer, that the chopped hibiscus bites would make for an unwelcome texture. However, it was surprisingly good.

I never would have plucked that package from the shelves, so this was truly a fun- and tasty- experiment. So long, and thanks for all the fish!

Cassata

note: I substituted the candied hibiscus for the angelica & cherries.
Serves 8

1 ounce (30g) candied angelica, rinsed, dried and chopped
2 tablespoons (30g) candied cherries, rinsed, dried and chopped
2 tablespoons (30g) chopped mixed candied peel
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 1/2 cups (600ml) raspberry sorbet
2/3 cup (150ml) heavy cream, whipped until thick
2 1/2 cups (600ml) vanilla ice cream
3 3/4 cup (900ml) terrine

Chill the terrine. Put the angelica, candied cherries, and candied peel in a bowl.
Add the rum and stir well, then leave to soak while preparing the ice cream layers.
Allow the sorbet to soften, then spread it evenly over the bottom of the chilled terrine. Chill in the freezer until solid.
Fold the fruit and rum mixture into the whipped cream. Spoon into the terrine and level the surface. Return to freezer rand freeze until firm.
Allow the vanilla ice cream to soften, then spread it evenly over the fruit layer. Cover and freeze for 8 hours.
To turn out, dip the terrine into warm water and invert the cassata onto a large serving plate. Slice and serve at once.

"this is not a true cassata, but a layered ice cream 'sandwich" that has borrowed its name. A true sicilian cassata is a bombe of liquer-soaked sponge cake filled with ricotta cheese studded with candied fruits and grated chocolate. It is often served at wedding feasts and other celebrations.
-Classic Home Cooking, by Mary Berry & Marlena Spieler

Gianduja Gelato

2007-07-08T13:59:00.000-07:00

1 1/2 cups (185 g) hazelnuts, toasted
1 cup (250 ml) whole milk
2 cups (500 ml) heavy cream
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
4 ounces (115 g) milk chocolate, finely chopped
5 large egg yolks
1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract

Rub the hazelnuts in a kitchen towel to remove as much of the papery skins as possible, the finely chop them in a food processor or blender.
Warm the milk with 1 cup of the cream, sugar and salt in a saucepan. Once warm, remove from heat and add the chopped hazelnuts. cover and let steep at room temp for 1 hour.
Put the milk chocolate pieces in a large bowl. Heat the remaining 1 cup cream in a medium saucepan until it just begins to boil. Pour it over the milk chocolate pieces and stir until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth. Set a mesh strainer over the top.
Pour the hazelnut-infused milk through a strainer into a medium saucepan, squeezing the nuts firmly with your hands to extract as much of the flavourful liquid as possible. Discard the hazelnuts.
Rewarm the hazelnut-infused mixture. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm hazelnut mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.
Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the milk chocolate mixture. Add the vanilla and stir until cool over an ice bath.
Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.

from David Lebovitz's "The Perfect Scoop"

see original post here.

Tomato Appy

2007-07-05T15:05:00.000-07:00

Panko-Encrusted Tomatoes with Goat Cheese, Capicola, Basil & Balsamico

green or unripe tomatoes
flour + milk (enough to create a batter-like consistency)
salt
pepper
cayenne
panko
olive oil
capicola, crisped in the oven
goat cheese
basil
balsamic vinegar

Mix together the flour and milk, along with salt, pepper and cayenne.
Slice tomatoes somewhat thick, then coat in the floury batter.
Dredge in the panko so that the tomatoes are thickly covered.
In a med/large skillet, heat enough olive oil to accomodate the slices for frying. Fry over medium-high heat until golden, flipping once.
When finished, remove to a paper towel to drain briefly. Place a small portion of goat cheese on top, then give a quick drizzle of balsamic.
Place shards of crispy capicola top, strew with basil and serve immediately.

Photo is from my appetizer at Create Bistro;

see the original beach post here.

Bolognese Sauce

2007-07-05T14:57:00.000-07:00

Keep in mind that all of these amounts are general, and beg to be tinkered with. Make it so that it tastes good.

2 Tablespoons butter
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2- 2 1/2 stalks of celery (depending upon size)
2 1/2- 3 carrots (depending upon size)
1 medium red onion, diced
4-5 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1 lb ground beef
1 lb ground pork
1 lb ground lamb
3 28-ounce cans whole tomatoes, with juice
2 bay leaves
1- 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1- 1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil
quarter of a nutmeg, ground
1 or so glasses of red wine
parmesan rinds
prosciutto or pancetta are both great additions, diced

In a large pot, warm butter and olive oil over medium-high heat.
Sweat celery, carrots, onion, garlic and procsiuto/pancetta (if using) until softened, 3-5 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add meats, stirring/chopping until brown. Drain off excess fat, if necessary.
Add the remaining ingredients to the pot, stir to combine. Cook, uncovered, for 6 or so hours, stirring at least every 30 minutes.

see original post here.

Ahm in amore, at least when in Portsmouth

2007-06-27T16:52:00.000-07:00

Portsmouth has seen a steady sprinkling of new restaurants in and around the newly renovated High Street area. Amoré Casual Italian has recently joined the ranks.

Styled as an unpretentious, family-friendly neighborhood fixture, it plays the part with classic red-and-white checked tablecloths, cozy brick walls and welcoming staff. As it wasn’t preposterously hot outside, my husband and I elected to sit out on the patio, where a cooling breeze rustled enticingly through the vestibule.

The wait staff seemed slightly short-changed that night, but an apologetic waitress was soon tableside. Our perusal of the modest wine list yielded the Acinum Chianti ($30), a tight little package that was crafted for heady tomato sauce, Italian ham and pepperoni-rich pies. We placed our orders, then kicked back to watch the engaging panoply of folk out for their evening stroll.

The salads soon arrived, verdant and fresh. I had the simple dinner salad ($3.99), a modest and crisp assortment of iceberg, tomatoes, cucumbers and croutons. The basic house dressing veered a tad to the sweet side, but was still quite nice.

Dave’s Italian salad ($7.99) was rife with more crisp lettuce, tomatoes, croutons, red onion, rolled ham and cheese, and fat slices of sharp green pepper. The house dressing, once again, was a little sweet and in just the right amount.

We watched with barely concealed awe as our neighbor’s dishes came out: a fat chunk of lasagna issuing forth heady scents, and a portion of ziti that did much the same. Shortly after that, our entrees came out piping hot, and looking just as good.

Dave’s spaghetti and meatballs ($8.99) came in a massive, contractor-sized portion. The pasta was generously doused in a slightly sweet marinara, dappled with hefty, hand-formed meatballs. It was an excellent homespun version.

I had pizza, always a good benchmark for any such restaurant. My small pesto chicken pie ($6.99) didn’t disappoint. The crust was nicely chewy, supporting layers of pungent pesto, cheese and chunks of pre-cooked chicken. A sprinkling of crushed red pepper is not only encouraged, but well received.

Although dessert ran the gamut from cheesecake to tiramisu, to ice cream, cake and cannolis, we were more than comfortably full from our hearty entrees. We took the check, and thanked our waitress once again for the low-key, relaxing experience.

Amoré is all about casual comfort food, served in an easygoing, friendly environment. Now that is — Amoré!

Amoré Casual Italian
606 High Street, Portsmouth
Phone: 337-8382
Specialties: casual Italian
Price range: soups and salads: $4.49-$7.99; sandwiches/subs: $3.49-$6.49; entrees: $6.49-14.99; pizzas: 5.99-$13.99
Hours: 11 a.m.- 10 p.m., Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight, Friday-Saturday; 10 a.m.- 3 p.m., Sunday brunch
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: on the outdoor patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: kids’ menu
Star rating: food 3, atmosphere 3, service 3
(out of five stars)

Peanut Butter Ice Cream

2007-06-20T17:23:00.000-07:00

Peanut Butter Ice Cream

3/4 cup (180g) smooth peanut butter
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (180g) sugar
2 2/3 cups (660ml) half and half
pinch of salt
1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract

Puree the peanut butter, sugar, half and half, salt and vanilla in a blender or food processor until smooth.
Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Makes about 1 quart.
from David Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop

original post here

Molten Chocolate Babycakes

2007-06-19T17:18:00.000-07:00

Molten Chocolate Babycakes

scant 1/4 cup soft unsalted butter, plus more for greasing
12 ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate
1/2 cup sugar
4 large eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt
1.5 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/3 cup AP flour
equipment: 6 individual 6-ounce custard cups, buttered and baking parchment

Unless you are making these up in advance, preheat the oven to 400 degreesF, putting in a baking sheet at the same time. Lay 3 of the custard cups on a sheet of doubled baking parchment. Draw round the base, remove and cut out the discs as marked. Press them all into the base of the cups.

Melt the chocolate and allow to cool slightly. Cream together the butter and sugar, and gradually beat in the eggs and salt, then the vanilla. Now add the flour, and when all is smoothly combined, scrape in the cooled chocolate, blending into a smooth batter.

Divide the batter between the 6 custard cups, quickly whip the baking sheet out of the oven, arrange the little cups on it and replace in the oven. Cook for 10-12 minutes (extra 2 minutes needed if the puddings are refrigerator cold when you begin), and as soon as you take them out of the oven, tip out these luscious babycakes onto small plates or shallow bowls. Serve with whipped cream, the same unwhipped in a pitcher, creme fraiche, custard or ice cream.

Serves 6.
from Nigella Lawson's How to be a Domestic Goddess

original posting here

Popcorn chickpeas

2007-06-19T17:15:00.000-07:00

Popcorn Chickpeas

1 15-ounce can chickpeas
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped rosemary
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper

Drain and rinse the chickpeas in a strainer. Turn them out onto paper towels or clean dish towel and pat them dry.
Pour the olive oil into a large skillet over medium-high heat and toss in the chickpeas. Cook 5-7 minutes, shaking the pan often. They won't really brown, but they'll turn several shades darker, shrink a bit and form a light crust.
Pour the chickpeas back into the strainer to drain off excess oil, then return to pan.
Lower the heat to medium and add the rosemary and garlic. Stir for another minute or two until the garlic begins to brown. Sprinkle with salt and a few grindings of pepper. Toss again and pour into a serving bowl.
serve warm.

from "Herb Garden (beginnings)

original posting here

Agoraphobia

2007-06-19T16:43:00.000-07:00

Agora (which means "meeting place" in Greek) Bar and Bistro is tucked away in a casual storefront, next to the movie theater in Suffolk's growing Harbour View neighborhood. My date and I had secured a reservation mid-week, and arrived a few minutes shy of 6:30 p.m. The door led us into the bar, where a couple sat in animated conversation with the bartender. A laughing waitress cheerfully paused in her conversation, welcomed us, and invited us in. The empty dining room ran parallel to the narrow bar, and she offered up any table while going to get the wine list.

The room had that hip-yet-funky vibe, with warm walls bringing color to the shimmery grey tiles beneath. Decorative tribal-style masks grinned next to mischievous French posters, while strategically placed mirrors gave a sense of space. I picked up my menu, bound in an old-fashioned photo album, and began perusing. Offerings held a lot of surf, a little turf and a smattering of pasta dishes, not to mention a very lengthy martini list.

After a slight mis-hap with our requested bottle, the waitress returned with our next choice, the Tittarelli Tempranillo Reserva 2004 ($31). Red, rich and filled with smooth tannins, it was a busty little quaff that held a nice finish. No specials were being offered that evening, so Dave took care of placing our orders, while I sought out the bathroom.

The bathroom was wide, very clean and busy with more eclectically-stylized posters. More eye-catching was the miniature DVD player, running through classic black & white flicks.
Returning to my seat, I noticed the sun glinting off the wrought-iron style chairs-- or rather, lighting up the blanket of dust running across. My eyes wandered to the black tablecloths, many of which were stained and ripped-- even our table had several of these battle scars.

We soon had an appetizer to keep cozy with. Five coconut encrusted-shrimp ($10) came on an oversized white plate, nestled against field greens and festooned with a vivid purple orchid. Less identifiable was the container of thick pink sauce, which our waitress identified as the strawberry coulis. I spooned out a taste, finding it sweet and rather yogurty. The butterflied shrimp were rather soft and bland, even beneath the very golden crust, so I tried a dip in the coulis. It's much as you imagine eating coconut-flecked popcorn-style shrimp dipped into strawberry yogurt would taste like.

At this point, it was becoming slightly difficult for Dave and I to hear each other. Even though the dining room was still empty, the bar patrons and staff were engaged in high-volume conversations and raucous laughter, which steadily drowned out the cozy, intimate lounge music.

When our waitress returned bearing gorgeous plates, I felt a thrill of excitement. My Hurricane Diablo ($15) was a massive portion of pasta, once again decked out with another purple orchid. Slightly chewy sun-dried tomato linguine held a conglomeration of perfectly cooked scallops, shrimps, clams and mussels. They were covered in a brandy red pepper marinara that lacked little, if any, character: the generous shavings of Parmesan did little to help.

Dave had fun picking an assortment of sushi from the a la cart list. The arrangement was truly breathtaking, a rainbow of pink, white, yellow, black, orange and purple (courtesy of the seemingly standard orchid). Spicy tuna, scallions and caviar formed the Agora Roll ($10), topped off with smooth pink rectangles of tuna sashimi. The Nitro Roll ($6) was its more basic cousin, simply tuna and scallions rolled up tight. The Dragon Roll ($9) indeed bore resemblance to that mythical creature. Cucumber, crab and caviar were wrapped with rice and avocado, striped with broiled freshwater eel. Rather than going over the individual flavors of each roll, we came to the same conclusion for each: not flavorful, not fresh in taste, and a real disappointment considering the artful construction.

The bar noise continued to spill in. The dining room, aside from us, remained empty. The waitress came to take our plates, and I asked if we could perhaps try desert. With a sorrowful smile, she replied that they didn't have any, and left to get our bill.

Lucky for us, there was a Cogan's Pizza right next door. We each enjoyed a happy slice, then sped off into the night.

Agora World Fusion Bar & Bistro
5860 Harbour View Boulevard, Suite 5A, Suffolk
Phone: 483-9199
Specialties: fusion-style entrees
Price range: appetizers: $9-$12; entrees: $13-$28; martinis: $8-$9
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-12 p.m. Friday; 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Saturday; closed Sundays
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: yes, at the bar only
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational in the dining room, noisy in the bar
Atmosphere: upscale casual
Additional Information: extensive martini list
Star rating: food 2 1/2, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 3
(out of five stars)

Neighbourly charm & more at Amore

2007-06-19T16:39:00.000-07:00

Portsmouth has seen a steady sprinkling of new restaurants in and around the newly renovated High Street area: Amore Casual Italian has recently joined the ranks.
Styled as an unpretentious, family-friendly neighborhood fixture, it plays the part with classic red-and-white checked tablecloths, cozy brick walls and welcoming staff. As it wasn't preposterously hot outside, my husband and I elected to sit out on the patio, where a cooling breeze rustled enticingly through the vestibule.

The wait staff seemed slightly short-changed that night, but an apologetic waitress was soon tableside. Our perusal of the modest wine list yielded the Acinum Chianti ($30), a tight little package that was crafted for heady tomato sauce, Italian ham and pepperoni-rich pies. We placed our orders, then kicked back to watch the engaging panoply of folk out for their evening stroll.

The salads soon arrived, verdant and green. I had the simple dinner salad ($3.99), a modest and crisp assortment of iceberg, tomatoes, cucumbers and croutons. The basic house dressing veered a tidge to the sweet side, but was still quite nice.

Dave's Italian salad ($7.99) was rife with more crisp lettuce, tomatoes, croutons, red onion, rolled ham & cheese, and fat slices of sharp green pepper. The house dressing, once again, was a little sweet and in just the right amount.

We watched with barely-concealed awe as our neighbor's dishes came out: a fat chunk of lasagna issuing forth heady scents, and a portion of ziti that did much the same. Shortly after that, our entrees came out piping hot, and looking just as good.
Dave's spaghetti and meatballs ($8.99) came in a massive, contractor-sized portion. The pasta was generously doused in a slightly sweet marinara, dappled with hefty, hand-formed meatballs. It was an excellent home-spun version.

I had pizza, always a good benchmark for any such restaurant. My small pesto chicken pie ($6.99) didn't disappoint. The crust was nicely chewy, supporting layers of pungent pesto, cheese and chunks of pre-cooked chicken. A sprinkling of crushed red pepper is not only encouraged, but well received.

Although dessert ran the gamut from cheesecake to tiramisu, to ice cream, cake and cannolis, we were more than comfortably full from our hearty entrees. We took the check, and thanked our waitress once again for the low-key, relaxing experience.
Amore is all about casual comfort food, served in an easygoing, friendly environment.

Now that is- Amore!

(Ha... you know I couldn't resist the silly pun.)

Amoré Casual Italian
606 High Street, Portsmouth
Phone: 337-8382
Specialties: casual Italian
Price range: soups and salads: $4.49-$7.99; sandwiches/subs: $3.49-$6.49; entrees: $6.49-14.99; pizzas: 5.99-$13.99
Hours: 11 a.m.- 10 p.m., Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight, Friday-Saturday; 10 a.m.- 3 p.m., Sunday brunch
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: on the outdoor patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: kids’ menu
Star rating: food 3, atmosphere 3, service 3
(out of five stars)

Chicka-Chicka-Booom

2007-06-13T04:15:00.000-07:00

I have a certain soft spot in my heart for veggie burgers. My first taste was in the Netherlands at, I'm slightly embarrassed to say, McDonald's. Intrigued by the mystery of a "groenteburger", I was soon biting into a tender, colorful patty that was pretty darned good. The following years saw me sampling the well-trod territory of Boca Burgers, Gardenburgers and Morning Star's varied line.

In all that time, I never really considered making my own. Enter Heidi Swanson's just-released cookbook, "Super Natural Cooking". In simple and approachable terms, she covers a variety of natural products, then translates them into mouth-watering recipes. It seemed irresistibly serendipitous that the first page I flipped open was the one that read "sprouted garbanzo burgers."

Not just your run'o'the mill veggie burger, Heidi's inspiration came from frustration: too many patties turned dusty and barren. She decided to make the 'meat' into the bun, and stick the toppings in between.

I'm sure you can guess that the main ingredient are sprouted garbanzo beans, but where to find them in town? I happened upon them in Harris Teeter's produce section, next to the pre-packaged herbs. Touted as crunchy sprouts, the 4-ounce unit contains a mixture of sprouted green peas, cow peas, red lentils and garbanzos. Perfect! I bought 2 packages (not quite enough), then made up the remainder with some drained-and-rinsed canned chickpeas.

After softening the sprouted beans in a steamer, I blitzed them in the food processor, along with the canned beans, eggs and a healthy pinch of salt.

Once proper chunky consistency had been achieved, I stirred in diced onions, cilantro, lemon zest, broccosprouts and breadcrumbs.

I left the mixture to sit for a few minutes, so as to absorb excess moisture, before patting them out in the familiar patty shape.

They firmed up quite nicely, and were soon cooking merrily away on the stove-top. After turning nicely golden, I set them on a rack to cool while chopping my fillings. I elected to go with microgreens, some juicy tomatoes, sauteed squash and another recipe from Heidi's book, crunchy slaw. Turning my attention back to the patties, I carefully began cutting-- the larger ones were easier, whereas the little cuties tended to go a bit crumbly.

I put together my first mini-burger and took a bite. The cilantro was barely detectable in the background, while the beany goodness was in full effect. Most interesting was the crunchy golden deliciousness of the outside, and the soft, luxuriously creamy interior.

It was really, really good, but I'm a fool for the crust. Since the pan was still warm, I slid two slices back in, cut side down. After just a couple of minutes over medium heat, they too developed that crunchy manna. This ain't a burger, this is a veritable veggie blessing!

Sprouted Garbanzo Burgers

2 1/2 cups sprouted garbanzo beans (chickpeas) OR canned garbanzos, drained and rinsed
4 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 onion, chopped
Grated zest of one large lemon
1 cup micro sprouts, chopped (try broccoli, onion, or alfalfa sprouts - optional)
1 cup toasted (whole-grain) bread crumbs
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil (or clarified butter)

If you are using sprouted garbanzos, steam them until just tender, about 10 minutes. Most of you will be using canned beans, so jump right in and combine the garbanzos, eggs, and salt in a food processor. Puree until the mixture is the consistency of a very thick, slightly chunky hummus.
Pour into a mixing bowl and stir in the cilantro, onion, zest, and sprouts. Add the breadcrumbs, stir, and let sit for a couple of minutes so the crumbs can absorb some of the moisture.
At this point, you should have a moist mixture that you can easily form into twelve 1 1/2-inch-thick patties. I err on the moist side here, because it makes for a nicely textured burger. You can always add more bread crumbs a bit at a time to firm up the dough if need be. Conversely, a bit of water or more egg can be used to moisten the batter.
Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium low, add 4 patties, cover, and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, until the bottoms begin to brown. Turn up the heat if there is no browning after 10 minutes. Flip the patties and cook the second side for 7 minutes, or until golden. Remove from the skillet and cool on a wire rack while you cook the remaining patties. Carefully cut each patty in half, insert your favorite fillings, and enjoy immediately.
Makes 12 mini burgers.
from Heidi Swanson's "Super Natural Cooking"

Shelley's notes: I used about half of a mixed-batch of sprouted beans, and made up the other half with canned garbanzos. My fillings included microgreens, sliced ripe tomatoes, sauteed squash and crunchy slaw (recipe follows). These are also just as great, uncut, served over fresh greens, and more of that lovely slaw salad.

Crunchy Slaw Salad

Creamy Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
juice of 1 lemon
fine-grain sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
splash of heavy cream

1 extra-crisp apple, peeled and cored
1 big squeeze of lemon juice
1 small Savoy cabbage
1 cup chopped toasted walnuts

To make the dressing, whisk the apple cider and lemon juice together in a small bowl, season with a few pinches of salt and a couple of grinds of pepper, then gradually whisk in the olive oil followed by the cream. Set aside.

Shred the apple on the large holes of a box grater (or use the grater attachment of a food processor), then put the shreds in a bowl of cold water with the squeeze of lemon; this will keep the apple from browning. Cut the cabbage into quarters and core each section, then cut them into a very fine chiffonade. Just before serving, drain the apples and toss with the cabbage, walnuts, and dressing in a large bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Serve immediately.
Serves 4-6.
from Heidi Swanson's "Super Natural Cooking".

Shelley's notes: Unable to find any reputable savoys, I used equal parts green and napa cabbages. I also used pine nuts in place of the walnuts.

Tap into the Taphouse... at Queen's Way

2007-06-05T18:03:00.000-07:00

Norfolk has the Taphouse, while Hampton has the Taphouse at Queens Way. My husband Dave and I arrived there about 6:30 on a weeknight and found a very full house. The downstairs was completely thronged with full tables, while the bar was standing room only. Due to that— and the many people smoking— we headed up the broad wooden stairs.

There, in a quieter, slightly more intimate atmosphere, we found a few open tables. The lone waitress cheerfully motioned us to pick a table, so we settled against the wall under a colorful array of beer-centric posters. Soon bringing our menus, she took the time to go over the specials, deftly answering all of our questions. She gave this same cheerful, patient service to each and every table. This is the kind of person who makes waiting tables look and feel effortless.

She soon returned with two ice cold glasses. The smaller goblet-shaped one held my Allagash White Ale ($5), while Dave’s Konig Ludwig Hefeweizen ($5) came long and tall. Both were more than satisfactory.

Runners were up and down the stairs, making certain that no wait grew too long. The first dish up was the crispy chicken livers ($5). I’m not sure what I’d been expecting, but it certainly wasn’t the gleaming white plate in front of me. A carefully arranged stack of golden-crusted livers was dotted with generous chunks of bacon, topped by crunchy browned threads of onion and surrounded by artful balsamic squiggles. The livers were crunchy on the outside and pleasingly tender on the inside. And, of course, everything is better with bacon!

Next up was the Caesar salad ($7). Undoubtedly sized for sharing, the fresh greens were slightly over-dressed in a garlicky, tangy dressing. Toasty croutons and shreds of fresh Parmesan topped it off quite nicely.

For my entree, it was impossible to ignore the allure of fresh soft-shell crabs. These crispy little critters were a bit heavy-handed on the breading but delicious nonetheless. They also came with a portion of golden french fries, undoubtedly the best I’ve tried in quite some time. Lest I get lost in a world too filled with grease, a tiny plastic ramekin filled with creamy yet light coleslaw helped everything down.

Dave had no qualms about trying out the fried chicken plate ($10). This classic comfort food had a nicely spiced crust with just the right amount of crunch, revealing a surprisingly moist and tasty interior. It came with smooth mashed potatoes, covered in a peppery brown gravy, and the vegetables of the day. In this case carrots and broccoli, bright and tender-crisp.

The waitress, admirably handling the growing crowd, was quickly at tableside to offer dessert. The strawberry puff sounded great (desserts change daily), but the hour was growing late for us early risers.

The newest incarnation of the Taphouse sticks with its strongpoint: a slew of international beers coupled with a welcoming and knowledgeable staff. Gilding the lily is the well-prepared tavern fare that runs the gamut from seared sashimi tuna and Frito pie to jambalaya, fresh fish and serious sandwiches.

The Taphouse (Hampton)
17 East Queens Way, Hampton
Phone: 224-5829
Specialties: large variety of beers on tap/bottle; upscale casual tavern fare
Price range: appetizers: $4-$9; sandwiches/wraps: $6-$10; burgers: $6-$8; entrees: $9-$16; seafood: $12-$16
Hours: 11 a.m.- 2 a.m., 7 days a week
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: yes
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: noisy
Atmosphere: cozy tavern
Additional Information: 37 beers on tap, 165 by the bottle (as of press time).
Star rating: food 3 1/2, atmosphere 3, service 4
(out of five stars)

Vinny's Pizza & Pasta

2007-05-30T11:45:00.000-07:00

Vinny's Pizza & Pasta inhabits the old blink-and-you-may-have-missed it Hawaiian Deli & Smoothie building in Newport News. The thatched roof is still there, but the tropical pictures inside have been replaced by charming Italian-esque scenes, while the sneeze guard protects a variety of pizza pies.

My husband Dave and I popped by one early Thursday evening. In accordance with the sign, we seated ourselves at a booth in the rear. Within minutes, the waitress had been by to drop off paper menus and take our drink requests. She returned with Dave's unsweet iced tea ($1.59) and a Jones soda ($1.25) for me. After cheerfully answering a few questions, she left with our orders, hurrying to greet another couple in the rapidly filling room.

It wasn't long before the salad that accompanied my entree arrived. Stunningly fresh, crisp greens formed a bed for crisp cucumbers, red onions and black and green olives. I had a simple oil and vinegar dressing that fit the bill perfectly. The only downside was the bright red chunks of tomato, which -- having been refrigerated-- had been robbed of all flavor.

Along with the salad came the ubiquitous bread basket. Tender, golden, buttery garlic knots, dotted with flecks of parsley, made for a fine foray into carb country. The accompanying roll, made in-house, was neatly sliced and quite tasty.

The waitress had warned Dave that the large Italian stromboli ($11.95) was enormous. Even so, we both gasped when she hauled this massive, burnished beauty forth. Easily taking up half the available space on a pizza tray, it came with a small portion of tomato sauce for dipping.

The mixture of Genoa salami, cooked salami, capicolla, mozzarella, onions and pepperoni were rich and delightful, the golden crust perfectly cooked and crisp. Once the slightly overpowering slices of green pepper were removed, it was pretty close to perfect.

After much deliberation, I ordered the baked ziti ($9.95). It arrived in a more-than-generous portion, dotted with flecks of parsley and parmesan. A gooey, soft layer of mozzarella blanketed the short, tubular pasta. It, too, was tender to the tooth and made for a most enjoyable combination. The tomato sauce, a touch bland for my taste, perked right up with the judicious use of salt and some crushed red pepper.

All in all, a very satisfying dish. Fighting food comas, Dave and I requested boxes and the bill.

We've been by multiple times for their pizza. The thin-crusted cheese and pepperoni are basic, if a bit flat.

What really shines is their varied line of gourmet slices. I tried a vegetable-heavy slice of white pizza. Cooked to well, as requested, it was the perfect combination of bright green broccoli, diced tomatoes and mushrooms. Dave tried a slice of the cheesesteak pizza (the best of both worlds, just don't tell your doctor what you had for lunch!) and the taco pizza (interesting, but not really his taste, mainly due to the wilted lettuce.)

When our oven at home exploded in the midst of a dinner party recently, the guys headed over to Vinny's drive-through window to pick up our call-in order. We girls went for the medium white capri ($11.95). This sauceless pie had gooey mozzarella, wilted spinach, broccoli and chopped tomatoes. While it definitely hit the spot that night, I later discovered that the leftover slices were very easy to freeze, then re-heat to crisp perfection at a later day.

The guys ordered a large Vinny's Special Toppings ($15.95). Pepperoni, sausage and meatballs made for a very rich and hearty entree, but the meat toppings were tempered with chunks of mushroom, onions and black olives. Although there was some left over, it mysteriously disappeared from the refrigerator in the middle of the night.

Vinny, son Mose Schiano and wife Brittany come from Philly, where their other restaurants have become neighborhood favorites. When I asked Mose what brought him to Newport News, he replied, "I looked around for a long time, then this place finally came open. I wanted to bring in something different, and there wasn't anything else quite like this."

Well, now there is, and judging by the bustling business, it's just what the Peninsula has been looking for.

Alcoholic Beverages Beer and wine (Will be available 6/4/07)
Atmosphere 3 (of 5) stars
Cuisine American, Italian, Pizza, Subs/Sandwiches
Food 3 (of 5) stars
Noise rating Somewhat noisy when busy
Payment Method Credit cards
Price Range $$ (Average entree $10-15)
Service 3 (of 5) stars
Specials Carry Out, Smoke-free, Vegetarian
Wheelchair Access Yes

Scalloping along

2007-05-30T11:40:00.000-07:00

Scallops are a natural when it comes to the summer table. These sweet, succulent little orbs cook up quick -- little adulteration is needed to highlight their fresh-from-the-ocean taste. Many folks prefer scallops that have been fried, but come summer, you know that hips don't lie! Set that fryer aside and take a walk on the lighter side.

I'd been contemplating some sort of scallop salad, rife with citrusy flavor. My thoughts soon strayed to tabbouleh, cool and composed with bulgur, fresh herbs and bits of vegetables. I whipped up a version using basil in place of the traditional mint, then set it aside for the flavors to properly mingle. Of course, you can always turn to Medik's Market or Trader Joe's for quality, prepared tabbouleh.

That done, I set about taking care of the scallops. Patted dry and dusted with a touch of salt and pepper, they went into a piping hot nonstick pan, along with a judicious amount of garlic.

The melted butter turned the exterior into a beautiful, burnished golden brown and, after one quick flip, I moved them to the side.

After turning up the heat, in went a good glug of white wine, along with some freshly squeezed lemon juice. My wooden spoon scraped up the yummy bits from the bottom, while the liquid thickened ever so slightly. Reducing the heat to medium, I added the scallops back in, just until warmed through.

Finally, the moment of truth was at hand. I piled the scallops atop the cool salad, drizzling them with some of the pan juices. With a generous sprinkling of lemon zest, it was done. The taste? Everything that's great about cool summertime food.

Basil-Tabbouleh Salad

1 cup fine-grain bulgur wheat
2 cups boiling water
2/3 cup equal parts minced fresh parsley and minced fresh basil
1 bunch green onions, cleaned, trimmed and chopped
1 cup grape tomatoes, diced
1 English cucumber, peeled and sliced
4 carrots, peeled and sliced into matchsticks
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 2 medium lemons, or to taste
Salt and pepper, as needed

To prepare, place bulgur in heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Cover and set aside for about 30 minutes or until bulgur has softened. Drain thoroughly.

Place the bulgur in a large bowl and add the parsley, basil, green onions, tomatoes, cucumber, carrots, oil and lemon juice.

Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (overnight is better).

Citrusy Scallops
1 dozen large (10 count per pound) sea scallops
Salt and pepper
1½ - 2 tablespoons butter
4 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup white wine
2 lemons, zested, juices reserved

Pat the scallops dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

In a large nonstick skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Cook the garlic until just beginning to soften and color. Add the scallops and cook until browned on each side (if using a smaller skillet, cook them in batches). Remove and set aside.

Deglaze the pan with the white wine and lemon juice until liquid is slightly reduced. Add the scallops back in and heat just until warmed through. Serve immediately over tabbouleh salad and garnish generously with the lemon zest. Yield: Serves 3.

art cafe 26

2007-05-23T16:48:00.000-07:00

It was a gray, rainy day when my husband, Dave, and I popped by art cafe 26 (yes, it is spelled in all lower-case letters). The interior draws you smoothly in with its clean lines and varying textures of wood, dotted with happy pots of thriving flora. It came as no real surprise to later discover that it was designed with the guiding principles of feng shui.

Fiddling about with beverages, a man behind the counter invited us to find a seat— someone would be with us shortly. It seemed that the bustling room was short a server or two, so we busied ourselves with the art. Paintings were hung on every wall, each individually lit.

By the time we’d circled the room and made it back to our table, the buzz seemed to be dying down. A woman came over to our table with not only menus, but the whole daily specials board from the front! She set it down where we could both see, presented our menus and warmly welcomed us.

“I’m Sibilla, and I’m so glad to have you here! Thanks for waiting,” she said in a smooth German accent. “Can I get you something to drink?”

Dave asked for the wine list, which having just been revised, was still only scribbled on a scrap of paper. They had recently changed their hours, opening later and staying open for the dinner crowd. After some discussion, Sibilla said she knew the perfect wine for us, and hurried off to get it.

The Staatlicher Hofkeller Wurzburg 2005 Silvaner -Trocken Franken could not have been more perfectly crafted. It was deliciously dry, with a touch of steely minerals balanced with a healthy squirt of bright acidity.

While filling up our glasses, Sibilla talked about the day’s offerings. Additionally, each dish is made to order, meaning that there may be more of a wait than some are accustomed to.

Perhaps it was the wine or the good conversation, but the wait didn’t seem too terribly long. My small spring salad ($5.50) came with mixed young greens, chopped sweet peppers and cucumbers. The honey vinaigrette was so light I thought they’d forgotten it — until I put a forkful in my mouth. It was indeed delicate, with a welcome hint of sweetness. Two small pieces of wholesome house-made bread were the perfect tools to make certain not a drop was left behind.Dave, in the mood for breakfast, had been steered toward the Artist Breakfast Omelet ($5.90). “You have never before tasted an omelet until now!” Sibilla had proudly declared, and rightfully so. Served open, the golden eggs provided the base for an artfully arranged border of mushrooms. Bits of red onion peeked out, while a chili-type powder warmed from the center. Deep inside, savory bits of ham were suspended in pockets of creamy, rich cheese. Dave is no slouch around breakfast, but found himself unable to finish this utterly delightful dish.I had gone with the business break special, an Austrian vegetable strudel ($9.90). It arrived looking almost too pretty to eat. Three dabs of a mellow tomato sauce dotted the rectangular white plate, while tiny wedges of vibrant cherry tomatoes kept the eye moving. Three fat slices of the strudel were sprinkled with black sesame seeds and bursting at the seams with a vegetable melange. Mushrooms, peppers, tomatoes and onions were succulent and soft, while fresh rosemary and thyme slowly revealed themselves, growing bolder as the dish cooled. A cheese I couldn’t quite identify, but turned out to be a fresh feta, was pillowy soft, without any overt trace of saltiness. Extremely well done.We needed a bit of a break before heading back into the world, so we ordered a couple of macchiatos and some cookies to go. The macchiatos ($4.70) were more like a latte, and the largest one that I have ever seen in my life! One would certainly have sufficed the both of us, so we paid up and sat out front to finish.

While fairly full, I’m never one to resist the temptation of cookies, and after staring at the bag for several minutes, I had a go. Three chocolate chippers ($1.60) were happily chewy, with a definite bent towards the darker side of chocolate chunks.

Two hours after we walked in, we finally left, exhilarated at our new find. Art cafe 26 is an independently owned venue that lends eclectic local flair to the new mixed-use community of Williamsburg’s New Town. Don’t go if you’re in a hurry — there are plenty of chains ready to satisfy that particular need.

Otherwise, come and sit for a spell. Linger over the art on the walls, feast upon the art on the plates, and please, check the rat race at the door.

art cafe 26
5107-2 Center Street, New Town, Williamsburg
Phone: 565-7788
Specialties: freshly prepared lighter fare
Price range: breakfast: $1.20-$10.50; soups: $4.90- $12.40; salads: $5.50-$14.50; entrees: varies by selection and day, around $15.99 at lunch and $20-$33 at dinner; desserts: $2.50-$8.90
Hours: 11 a.m.- 2 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5 p.m.- 9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; 8:30 a.m.- 9:30 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday
Alcohol: beer and wine
Smoking: permitted on the outdoor patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit card, check
Noise level: conversational to noisy
Atmosphere: art and food in a laid-back, European-style setting
Additional Information: outdoor seating, daily specials, private evening events, small dinner parties, business receptions, art/poetry/music discussions/events
Star rating: food 4, atmosphere 4 1/2, service 4
(out of five stars)

Strawberry fields forever

2007-05-16T05:33:00.000-07:00

Refrigeration, flash-freezing and inter-continental shipping; in this lucky age, one has access to almost any fruit or vegetable at just about any time of the year. I don't know that it's necessarily a good thing-- fruits, especially, taste so much better when in season. Now that it's May, the strawberries have finally arrived, and you can't traipse down a produce aisle without seeing mounds, pints and packages of these bright red beauties.

As a kid, I remember seeing tiny red buds popping out around the edges of the yard. The little wild strawberries, fanned by delicate white flowers were irresistible, and I popped one in my mouth. I was confused by the flavor, which still tasted strawberry, but wasn't at all sweet.

Now I adore raw, wild strawberries, but they've become just a bit harder to find. I go (almost) straight to the source at the Williamsburg Farmer's Market, where the crowds line up steady and long for fresh pints of local strawberries. They are delicious on their own, and at this time of year, don't need much done to enhance their sweet flavor.

With all the talk of verrines these days... you know, tiny layered portions served savory or sweet? They derive their name from, in French, the little glasses they are served in. At any rate, I cleaned, hulled and diced some strawberries. They went into a bowl with a touch of sugar and a splash of Cointreau. While they macerated, I roughly chopped some almond biscotti, then toasted coconut flakes until golden on the stove top.

In small glasses, I began the layering: a base of biscotti, a layer of low-fat coconut yogurt, the strawberries. I repeated once more, finishing with a few sliced strawberries and a sprinkling of that lovely coconut. Beautiful, refreshing, and fairly light-- you'll not want to let this sit too long, lest the biscotti become too mushy.

Sometimes, it's nice to kick back and simply drink your dessert. That's where the strawbellini comes in, based on that Harry's Bar classic. I used a Brachetto d'Acqui, a fruity, low-alcohol sparkling wine that is ruby red and a little sweet.

You could use Prosecco, champagne or even sparkling water. Roughly purée some strawberries with a touch of sugar, then add to the bottom of a champagne flute. Pour in your liquid of choice, garnish with half a strawberry, and enjoy the well-deserved fruits of your labor!

Strawberry-Yogurt Verrines

1 pint strawberries, cleaned, hulled and diced (reserve 3 strawberries, sliced)
1/8- 1/4 cup sugar (depending upon the sweetness of the berries)
splash of Cointreau or Grand Marnier (can also substitute unsweetened orange juice concentrate)
12 almond biscotti, roughly chopped
1/2 cup flaked coconut, toasted
12 ounces low-fat coconut yogurt

Combine the strawberries, sugar and Cointreau in a bowl and let sit.
Roughly chop the biscotti, keeping chunks on the larger side.
Meanwhile, toast the coconut in a dry pan on the stovetop over medium heat. Stir to prevent burning, removing when most have turned golden brown. Set aside to cool.
In small glasses, layer the biscotti, yogurt, strawberries; repeat until full.
Top with 3 slices of strawberries and some of the toasted coconut. Serve immediately.
2 generous servings.

Strawbellini

1 pint strawberries, cleaned and hulled (reserve two halved berries)
1/8 - 1/4 cup sugar (depending upon the sweetness of your strawberries)
1 bottle ice cold sparkling wine (Brachetto d'Acqui, Prosecco, champagne or sparkling water)

Process the berries & sugar into a puree. If desired, strain through a fine-mesh sieve to remove seeds.
In 4 champagne flutes, places about 2 tablespoons of the puree. Slowly add the beverage of choice, garnish with 1/2 strawberry, and serve.
Serves 4.

Thaijindesu

2007-05-09T07:27:00.001-07:00

Thaijindesu, another way of saying “Thai people,” is the newest eatery to arrive in the Port Warwick section of Newport News. This eye-catching restaurant features an invigorating mix of traditional Thai & Japanese cuisine, along with freshly made sushi and sashimi.

The front door opens to reveal a posh wooden bar ornamented with clean and colorful glass bottles. A turn to the right leads to the dining room. Decked out in shades of twilight, it seems elegant, spacious and modern all at once.

The host allowed my husband and I to pick one of the many window-side seats, where we began browsing menus. The wine list is succinct yet thoughtful, grouping selections by body/style (“medium bodied, semi dry to dry wines”). As our waitress approached, Dave decided upon a bottle of the Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay ($39). I also ordered an appetizer to keep us company while perusing the remaining menus.

The wine poured creamy, crisp and refreshing, and the appetizer arrived in much the same spirit. Barely seared tuna ($9), draped in a lively wasabi sauce, sat on a bed of lightly pickled cucumbers. A green shiso leaf, along with a generous arc of bright orange caviar, injected a bold touch of color and flavor. The smoothly textured fish, the warming wasabi and eminently pop-able roe were a swirling sensory delight.

We placed our orders, and very shortly had appetizer No. 2. The Thaijin platter ($12) offers a visit into the world of chef’s choice. Our gorgeous serving dish, divided into four quadrants, was another vision of beauty. Lightly fried spring rolls had a delicately crisp crust, encasing sweet and savory vegetables. Scrumptious alone, the slightly sweet dipping sauce proved to be just right in a fine drizzle.

Heavenly Beef consisted of fat sticks of marinated beef, fried dark and partnered with a fiery chili dipping sauce — consider yourself warned! Delicate dumplings held minced shrimp, crab and pork, all floating in a slightly spicy, slightly sweet soy sauce. Finishing out the tray were Thai fish cakes. While possibly not for everyone (a-hem, Dave), I loved the spongy texture and the accompanying plum sauce, crumbled peanuts and bright chunks of cucumber.

Dave and I were surprised to see two small salads brought to the table, but it seems they come along with the entree. Fresh greens were strewn with slivers of carrot and cabbage. Topped with an invigorating ginger-carrot dressing, it delved nicely into sweet/sour territory.

After a slight breather, our entrees arrived in a serious explosion of artistry and color. Dave had the laab kai ($9), a minced chicken salad. Perfectly poached poultry eagerly soaked up the lime, lemongrass and cilantro. He thought that he’d ordered medium spice, but it came mild — truly a minor quibble in an otherwise excellent presentation, down to the carrot-rose on top.

I ordered the tofu holy basil ($9). Another beautiful dish that was piled with golden cubes of pleasantly yielding tofu. Sautéed red and green bell peppers, along with bamboo shoots, nicely rounded out the body of the dish.

The sauce — oh my! I should preface this by saying that I generally like spicy foods, and many places tone it down, even when otherwise requested. Thaijindesu doesn’t play around! My first bite was a wonderful melange of texture and taste, as was the next. Then I felt the heat growing, growing, growing! Even as the temperature rose, I could still detect the unmistakable panoply of Thai sweet/sour/salty and without a doubt, the spice.

We’d already requested a little sushi, but our bellies were stuffed quite full! Our waitress wrapped it to go.

Amazingly, the kimchi tuna roll ($10) fared very well into the next day. With a core of tuna surrounded by still-crunchy kimchi, rice, nori and more fresh tuna, it again epitomized our Thaijindesu experience: classic flavors, with a bit of a twist, lovingly and artfully prepared.

BONUS APPETIZER FOR MY ONLINE READERS!

The shrimp toasts are utterly addictive! Crispy, a little sweet, and a little hot, I can guarantee you won't eat just one!

Thaijindesu Thai & Sushi Bar
2180 William Styron Square, Port Warwick, Newport News
Phone: 595-8410 Take out: 595-8401 Fax: 595-8440
Specialties: Thai, Japanese and sushi
Price range:
Lunch: On the Thai menu — salad, $4-$8; main course, $9-$10; noodles, $9-$12; fried rice, $9-$14; curry, $9; vegetarian, $8. On the Japanese menu — $8-$12.
Dinner: On the Thai menu — appetizers, $5-$12; soup, $4-$5; salad, $4-$9; main course, $12-$14; noodles, $11-$14; fried rice, $12-$14; curry, $12; duck specialty, $14-$17; seafood, $18-market price; vegetarian, $9. On the Japanese menu — appetizers, $4-$8; soup/salad, $4-$6; kitchen specials, $12-$17; sushi, $4-$25 (a la carte also available).
Hours: 11:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m., lunch; 5-10 p.m., dinner; 7 days a week
Alcohol: beer, wine and full bar
Smoking: permitted on the outdoor patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit card, check
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: modern and elegant
Additional Information: outdoor patio, daily specials
Star rating: food 4 1/2, atmosphere 4, service 4 1/2
(out of five stars)

Beef o' Brady's

2007-05-09T07:15:00.000-07:00

I wasn’t sure what to expect from a place by the name of Beef O’Brady’s: loads of burgers, steaks and potatoes? Quasi-Irish bar fare?

As it turns out, this locally-owned franchise within a national chain is best known for their Buffalo-style chicken wings. The sauce has proven so popular that they bottled it up to sell in two versions: mild and hot.

The interior of the restaurant is filled with clean wooden booths, with a more open seating area by the front window. The tendency toward an overly generic floor plan is tempered with the many pictures of local kids’ sports teams, sports jerseys and signs promoting their events. Television monitors abound, broadcasting a variety of sports (even motorcycle racing!) to the rainy day crowd. A small game room, certain to delight children of all ages, is an explosion of color, games and toys.

Our server popped by to take our drink requests. In addition to the usual sodas, iced tea and coffee, Beef’s also has a selection of draft and bottled beers and wine by the glass. The server returned with only my mom’s wine, as the remainder of the party’s beer selection had already sold out. After physically walking over to the bar— in order to see the bottled varieties— we settled upon the McSorley’s draft red ale ($1.75 a mug).

Our leisurely table had come close to finishing their drinks by the time the first plate was delivered. My dad ordered the Buffalo wing basket, “hot” ($7.49). Available in five heat levels, his choice showed a nice tingling, lingering spice that allowed the juicy flavor of the wing to come through.

It’s easy to see why these have become the restaurant’s flagship item. Coleslaw and a sealed container of bleu cheese partner up to tame any incipient waves of heat. Add on one hearty helping of golden french fries, and you’ve got a meat ’n’ three and then some.

Mom selected the fish ’n’ chips basket ($8.29), featuring four pieces of breaded cod, fried crisp and golden brown. They were tasty little things, invoking the unexpected memory of that childhood favorite, fish sticks. This also came with fries (good), coleslaw (creamy) and a sealed container of tartar sauce (the fish were fine without it).

My husband, Dave, whose burger had been given to another customer, watched from the side as I tucked into my Island Shrimp Salad ($7.99). A large portion of tired salad greens, flecked with carrots, onions and tomato, supported a skewer of five large shrimp. The menu stated that these were to be brushed with tropical spices, then grilled. What sat in front of me looked crumb-coated and fried, not the naked shrimp I’d anticipated. Nonetheless, with a quick pass from the oil-and-vinegar cruets I’d requested, it was a fine enough salad.

Dave’s burger finally arrived, along with my long-lost, long-ago requested drink refill. The ‘O’ Brady ($7.79) is a thick patty topped with provolone cheese, lettuce, tomato and onion. He’d asked them to hold the mayo, but add bacon, turning it into one massive burger indeed! Although regular fries were requested, lightly spiced curly fries came in their place. While not a personal favorite, they were up to par with the rest of the table’s generally tasty fries.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/198/462139373_5a6b8596e7_o.jpg
I’d thought our server had again forgotten my dad’s order of a cup of chili ($2.99), but it finally showed at the eleventh hour. This smoother style chili was piping hot and nicely spiced, making me wish that I’d had the forethought to order one to take home.

Beef O'Brady’s is a casual, clean sports pub that places it emphasis on family and fun. The menu has enough variety to appeal to a range of adult tastes, while the kids’ menu has more than just basic fare. Add into that their philosophy of partnering with the community through sponsorships, donations and local sporting support, and you’ve got one wholesome addition to the Newport News neighborhood.

Beef O' Brady's
309 Oyster Point Road, Newport News
Phone: 249-9464 Fax: 881-9416
Web site: www.beefobradys.com
Specialties: American pub fare
Price range: soups and salads: $2.99- $7.99; starters: $2.99- $6.99; burgers, sandwiches wraps: $6.99- $9.49; baskets: $6.99- $8.49
Hours: 11 a.m.- 10 p.m. Monday-Friday; 11 a.m. - 11 p.m. Saturday; 12 p.m.- 10 p.m. Sunday
Alcohol: beer and wine
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: limited
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit
Noise level: conversational-to-noisy
Atmosphere: casual family sports pub
Additional Information: kids eat free on Tuesdays (with adult meal); happy hour 4 p.m.- 7 p.m. Monday- Friday; lunch specials 11 a.m.- 2 p.m. Monday- Friday; catering
Star rating: food 3, atmosphere 3, service 2 1/2
(out of five stars)

A Show of Cinco-larity

2007-04-24T07:41:00.000-07:00

When spring flowers start sprouting, I know its not too long until the welcome return of Cinco de Mayo! Slowly but surely, this festive event has taken hold of the hearts and bellies of America. Many head out to restaurants and bars, where swaths of green, white and red bolster a plethora of Mexican foods, music and drinks.

I prefer a more low-key evening at home with friends. It's usually a potluck-style affair that's perfectly suited for a crowd-pleasing platter of enchiladas. Inauthentic, certainly, but often it's the first plate to empty.

For a large crowd, casserole-style is the only way to go. Shredded chicken and cheese are combined with chopped onions and tomatoes, then coated with a mixture of salsas- I like using both red and green. For the wrap, purists prefer corn tortillas, but these do just fine with the softer flour sort.

Assembly is quick: load tortillas with desired filling, roll'em up, and place in a salsa-sauced casserole dish. Repeat until full, coat with more salsa, onions and cheese, then pop into a moderate oven for about 35 minutes, until bubbling hot and ready.

When facing more intimate affairs (and with some extra time), I'll pull a Martha and craft cute, bite-sized portions. A small biscuit cutter is the perfect tool to stamp out little rounds from a full-sized tortilla, which are then grilled or pan-fried until lightly browned.

A microwave makes quick work of warming the chicken and salsa, and again, it's basic assembly: chicken, salsa, onions and cheese go for a turn under the broiler. In about five minutes, you've got all the gooey, spicy goodness of enchiladas in a neat, hand-held package. Bring on the cervezas!

Inauthentic Chicken Enchiladas

16 ounces tomatilla salsa (I prefer Mrs. Renfro's)
16 ounces red salsa (I prefer homemade)
1 20-ounce package soft flour tortillas shells
1 whole smoked or roasted chicken, roughly chopped or shredded
1 bunch green onions, sliced
1 bunch cherry tomatoes, chopped
3 cups sharp or medium cheddar cheese, shredded
4 Trappey's jalapenos, sliced (optional)
fresh cilantro, sliced (optional)
1 medium red onion, diced

In a casserole dish, cover the bottom with a layer of salsa.
Take a tortilla and line with about 2 generous spoonfuls of the chicken.
Top with green onions, tomatoes, cheese and optional jalapenos and cilantro; roll into a cylinder and place seam side down into the casserole. Repeat with the remaining tortillas until finished.
Cover the tortillas with a generous amount of salsa, then add the chopped onions and remaining shredded cheese. Bake, uncovered, in a 350-degree oven for about 30-40 minutes, or until bubbling and piping hot. Serve immediately.

Chicken Enchilada Bites

1 20-ounce package soft flour tortilla shells
1 whole smoked or roasted chicken, roughly chopped or shredded
1 small red onion, minced
tomatilla salsa
1 bunch green onions, sliced
red salsa
2 cups sharp or medium cheddar cheese, shredded
fresh cilantro or chives, sliced (for garnish)

Turn broiler to low and pre-heat.
Using a small biscuit cutter, cut rounds from the full-sized tortillas. In a lightly-oiled pan or panini grill, cook until lightly browned.

In a microwave-safe bowl, mix the chicken and minced red onion with the tomatilla salsa: cook in the microwave for about 1 minutes, stirring once, until mixture is warmed through.

Place the rounds on a lined cookie sheet, then add about 1 tablespoon of the chicken mixture to the center of each round.
Sprinkle with green onion, then place a dab of red salsa on top.
Cover with about a tablespoon (or so) of the cheese.
Place into the pre-heated oven under the broiler and cook for about 5-6 minutes, until the cheese has melted.

Remove to serving tray, place slivers of cilantro or chive atop each round and serve immediately.

The Boot

2007-04-24T07:38:00.000-07:00

In this age of synergy, when cell phones, cameras and PDAs sift seamlessly together, it shouldn’t come as any surprise when a music store and empty restaurant space give birth to The Boot — where food, music and art share common ground.

The location on 21st Street in Ghent is easy enough to find — it’s in the building previously occupied by Cafe Rosso and owned by the same people who operate Relative Theory Records on Granby Street. The spacious dining room is open, its clean lines dotted with white-clothed tables. Glassware sparkles, contributing to the upscale, yet far from aloof ambiance. The playful, eclectic art hung on the yellow walls steers it far from square territory.

The hostess, who proved to be our waitress, led my husband and I to a booth close to the bar. While Dave perused (the wine list, I checked out the specials, enthusiastically written on a chalkboard just behind our table. I was already tempted by what I saw, and the menu presented a wider range of tantalizing options. The cuisine has an Italian slant, bolstered by a “culinary philosophy of fresh and local.” In an effort to promote local, renewable, resources that give back to the community, the restaurant offers food from local ranchers, farmers and artisans, as much as possible.

I ordered an appetizer and a bottle of wine to keep us company while we mulled over the menu. The waitress returned with our Seghesio Renzo Barbera d’Alba 2002. Normally a $34 bottle, it was a real steal at $17 — all bottled wine is half off on Tuesdays! She tasted as good as she smelled, round, dark, juicy and deep. The wine list has a sampling of Virginia's finest, along with tastes from California, Australia and Italy.

We finalized our orders just as the calamari ($8) arrived. Sweet rings and dainty tentacles came fried in golden, soft crusts. A thin saffron-sherry vinaigrette was almost too delicate for the squid, but fat slices of tomatoes beneath soaked it up nicely.

We split a salad ($10), a wonderful choice when its generous size was revealed. A mixture of tender young greens and butter lettuce supported fat stalks of grilled asparagus. The smoky flavor was nicely accented by the perfectly proportioned coarse mustard vinaigrette. Charming young peas were made sweet with tangy mounds of fresh goat cheese. It was literally springtime in a bowl.

Dave was unable to stay away from the pasta special: bucatini carbonara ($14). The long, hollow strands of pasta coiled provocatively on the plate, allowing glimpses of burnished, chunky pancetta, tender spring onions and gentle shavings of Parmesan. One tiny bite was full of rich, intense flavors, in no small part due to the farm-fresh eggs that coated the glistening pasta in an almost-invisible sauce.

I was drawn in by the promise of handmade squid-ink fettuccine with local scallops in citrus butter ($18). The fat scallops were perfectly seared and filled with briny freshness. The pasta was nothing short of amazing: ethereal, light and filled with layers of flavor. Lemony brightness lit up my tongue, and I experienced a truly blissful moment of eyes-closed, quiet contemplation.

The menu continues beyond primi into entrees sorted by pesce, carne, vegetariano and contorni. While tempted, we were unable to venture farther into savory territory.

We finished the meal in proper Italian-style, with gelato ($5) and an espresso ($2). I was unable to decide between the featured flavors. An assortment of three was kindly offered. The passion fruit and cherry gelatos were vivid, creamy and light, while the blueberry sorbet was icy and dense. They were even better all mixed up.

The owners of Relative Theory Records have crafted a unique synergy between the music store, their philosophy of supporting locals and invigorating the dining scene in an exciting new way. Between the serious devotion to local, sustainable and tasty food, the myriad of musical performances, film showings and even cooking classes, there will surely be something to please most everyone.

The Boot
123 W. 21st Street, Norfolk
Phone: 627-2668 Fax: 627-1442
Web site: www.insidetheboot.com
Specialties: Italian-inspired menu featuring fresh & local products
Price range: starters: $5-$13; pasta: $13-$18; entrees: $15- $20; vegetables: $5; dessert: $5- $13
Hours: 5 p.m.- 10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 5 p.m.- 2 a.m. Friday, Saturday, Sunday; closed Mondays
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: permitted on the patio only
Vegetarian: yes, vegan as well
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards, checks
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: upscale casual
Additional Information: daily specials, late-night menu, private functions, cooking classes, art, literary and musical events
Star rating: food 4, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 4 1/2
(out of five stars)

Rut-rows

2007-04-24T07:36:00.000-07:00

After being closed for several months, a new place opened in the old Boulevard Restaurant in Newport News. The name "RETROS" snakes along the arch in bold white letters.

Dave and I came in about 6:45 p.m. on a Monday. It had an empty, closed look (admittedly, this wasn’t a big sports night), but the doors opened easily in. One thing was right, however: it was completely empty.

We looked around, then noticed a guy leaning against the bar. He greeted us, then asked if we were there for drinks or food. I told him we wanted dinner and a quiet booth, which he quickly led us to, asking if he could get us something to drink. When it quickly became apparent that there was no real wine selection, he told us about some exciting new shots that were on special that night. As neither of us has been in the mood for shots in, say, years, I got a Budweiser ($3) and Dave had a Yuengling ($3).

The menus were a quick peruse, and the lineup standard bar food. We were hoping the comfort food would make up for the lack of atmosphere.

Appetizers included wings, chicken tenders, fries, nachos and spinach dip, and had cutesy names referencing sports. Sandwiches, or “the line up," were burgers, Cuban sandwiches, pastrami and the like. The back of the menu held a tiny section of “home runs” — entree-sized steaks, jumbo shrimp, foot long hot dogs and a couple of pasta dishes.

There’s also a “Hot Zone” menu, perched conveniently in a plastic placard on the table. I was immediately drawn to the chicken ’n’ waffles ($9), while Dave thought the sampler platter ($12) would offer us a nice selection. He also opted to start with a Caesar salad ($2.99), while I got the house salad.

The wait was under way, minutes slowly ticking by, while music blared to an empty house. We saw our waitress readying things at the bar, and running silver and napkins to and fro.
— 7:15 came and went, still there was no sign of our salads.
— At 7:20, another couple walked in and sat at the bar. Dave was casting an eye about for the waitress.
— 45 minutes after we arrived, she finally came with our salads.

“I’m sorry, I’m new!” she laughed, setting them down and hurrying off again. The salad greens were bright, but not crisp. The large wedges of tomatoes were cold and mealy, while the cucumbers were water-logged and mushy.

The waitress returned with the sampler platter, setting it in front of Dave. She told me that the manager was personally going to make my chicken ’n’ waffles, as there was some problem with the cook. I asked what was wrong, she said he was just being very slow, and that’s why our salads took so long.

The sampler platter comes with your choice of four of six items. The quesadilla wedges were cold, with congealing cheese. The wings were salty and overcooked, although the sticky ribs were plump. The catfish strips were easily the best thing in front of us, with a nicely spiced coating in perfect proportion to the fish.

My chicken ’n’ waffles finally came, plunked down with a whole bottle of Aunt Jemima syrup. The manager came by after her, very apologetic and saying that they would be removed from our bill. I thanked him, and tucked into the plate.

The chicken portion were three fried wings, pretty much the same ones that had been on Dave’s platter. The waffle, mounded with a fat round of butter, was eggy and tinged with vanilla, crust nicely crisped and golden brown. With a touch of Aunt Jemima’s lovin’, it wasn’t so bad.

We paid up and left. Retros ... it’s a bar.

Retros Bar and Lounge

11135 Warwick Boulevard, Newport News
Phone: 223-4629
Web site: www.retrosrestaurant.com
Specialties: bar food (fresh, not frozen); signature dish is the chicken 'n' waffles
Price range: Price range: appetizers: $5.99-$11.99; salads: $2.99-$9.99; sandwiches: $6.99-$7.99; entrees: $6.99-$13.99; signature recipes: $4-$12
Hours: 4 p.m.- 2 a.m., seven days a week
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: yes
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards, checks
Noise level: blaring music but no voices to speak over on a recent Monday night
Atmosphere: bar
Additional Information: daily specials
Star rating: food 1 1/2, atmosphere 1, service 2
(out of five stars)

Round food is good food

2007-04-18T09:04:00.000-07:00

It was a lazy Saturday afternoon, and I was camped out on the floor in a pile of cookbooks and recipe-filled binders. Guests were coming that night, and while there's nothing wrong with the usual cheese-and-crackers routine, I was yearning for something a little different.

A hastily-copied recipe with a very fun name caught my eye-- bollitas!

Better known as cheese-wrapped olive balls, these classic appetizers were just what I needed.

Pimento-stuffed olives are patted dry, then encased in a crumbly cheese 'dough', before being baked in a hot oven.

The first few attempts at wrapping were laughable at best, but I quickly got the hang of it. Placing a blob of dough in the palm of my hand, I squished in an olive, then cupped my hands around it. Bit by bit, the crumbly dough began to come together, encasing the naked olive in a cozy cheesy coating.

Now, repeat 23 more times, and you'll see why I only make these a couple of times a year.

The basic recipe calls for cheddar and pimento-stuffed green olives, but there's no need to linger there. Substitute large garlic-stuffed olives, and surround them with blue cheese. Kalamata olives call for a Mediterranean spin, so a little feta flecked with thyme and oregano are the perfect fit. You like the spice? You'll love it even more with jalapeno-stuffed olives and a fiery habanero cheese.

These not only freeze well, but actually bake up better after having been frozen. The cook time is under 20 minutes, making the perfect go-to for unexpected guests. Once golden and cooling, the only question is... what to serve them with?

My predilection is for mango salsa, but you could go any number of ways. Roasted red pepper dip, hummus and baba ganoush would be just as nice as a sour cream-chipotle dip, lemony chimichurri, or even a mixed-vegetable tapenade.
It's always fun to play with food.

Cheese-Wrapped Olive Balls (Bollitas)

1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/4 teaspoon paprika or cayenne pepper
1/2 cup flour
24 pimento-stuffed Manzanilla olives

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

In bowl of food processor, combine cheese, butter, paprika/cayenne, and flour. Process until smooth.

Take about 1 tablespoon of crumbly dough and place in the palm of your hand. Place one of the olives in middle of dough. Cup your hand to begin fixing dough around olive.
Roll between palms of hands until dough is smoothly wrapped around olive.

Repeat until all olives have been wrapped.
Place onto parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden.
You many need to blot these a bit with a paper towel!

Note: If baking same day, place formed balls into freezer for about 15 minutes prior to baking. If baking from frozen, let sit out for about 15 minutes (while oven is heating): bake time may be extended by a few minutes.

Slippery yolks for springtime folks

2007-04-11T06:31:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite lunchtime haunts can be found up in Williamsburg. Countless sunny afternoons have seen my husband and I lunching on the patio at the Blue Talon Bistro, inevitably ordering one of our favorite dishes.

When I heard about the fire in December which temporarily shut them down (they have since re-opened), I was thankful that nobody was injured. At the same time, the prospect of a winter without the bistro burger or macaroni gratin was a bleak one indeed.

As this "winter" weather has pulled its punches this year, the balmy days had me yearning for their grilled asparagus salad. A riff upon the classic salade lyonnaise, this had the addition of cheese, bread and fresh asparagus. A veritable spring meal in a bowl, and one that proved easy enough to make at home.

The French may use lardons, but this Newport News kitchen found thickly-cut bacon to work just fine. As it sizzled away on the stove, I blanched the asparagus in salted, boiling water. The last of the bacon finished, just as the vibrant green asparagus were ready for an ice-bath.

My greens-- which included a mix of baby arugula, romaine hearts and watercress-- had already been cleaned, and were ready to go. Day-old bread was panini-toasted into a crunchy golden sponge, ready to soak up all the wonderful flavors, while a thick slice of St. Andres triple-creme cheese sat softening on the counter. I'd also made the basic vinaigrette earlier. While I settled upon sherry vinegar, good quality balsamic, champagne and red wine vinegars would all work well.

That left only one final glorious touch: a perfectly poached egg to crown the top. With a quick jab of my fork, the yolk had been pierced, and slowly began to mingle into the salad. I sliced, and took a bite with a wedge of baguette. My world narrowed to everything green, a rich smudge of cheese, smoky bacon and of course, the delicately draped egg. Spring is here.

Asparagus Salad with Bacon, Egg & Mixed Greens
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry (or other) vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
salt & pepper, to taste
1 bunch asparagus, cleaned, trimmed and chopped into 1-inch pieces
4 thick-cut strips of bacon
day old bread, sliced or cut into croutons
2 fresh eggs
1 tablespoon white vinegar
2 thick slices of triple creme cheese (I used Saint Andre), warmed to room temperature
mixed fresh greens (frisee, spinach, lettuce, arugula, watercress, etc.), cleaned, dried and torn into bite-sized pieces

Make the vinaigrette: mix the olive oil, vinegar, mustard and salt & pepper together; set aside.
Cook the bacon over medium heat until done, about 5-7 minutes. Set aside to drain on paper towel, then roughly chop.

Bring a pot of water to boil, add a generous handful of salt, then add asparagus. Cook uncovered until just tender and bright green, about 3-4 minutes. Immediately drain and plunge into an ice bath.

If using slices of bread, coat with a touch of olive oil and toast. If making croutons, drain all but 1 tablespoon of bacon fat from the frying pan. Cook cubes over medium-high heat, stirring to make sure they are well-coated. Remove when golden.

Poach the Eggs: bring water to a lively simmer in a medium pan, then add white vinegar. Break each egg into a separate bowl, then stir the water in the pot until it has a "whirlpool" effect. Gently slip eggs into the swirling water, one at a time: they should wrap nicely around themselves. Cook for about 3 minutes, until your desired degree of doneness has been reached- I like 'em runny.

Assemble the salad: divide the mixed greens evenly into two bowls. Add vinaigrette, asparagus and bacon, mixing well. Add bread/croutons and the cheese. Top with poached egg and dig in.

Create Bistro

2007-04-11T06:17:00.000-07:00

Many a diner has come and gone in Hilton Village over the past few years. The corner of Warwick and Post has a decidedly different vibe these days, when it opened last October in the guise of Create Bistro. Partners Chad Martin and Andrew Hyatt, well versed in the local dining scene, split back and front-of-the-house duties in this strikingly redesigned space.

The layout is intimate, with golden-hued European-style seating. Aubergine walls and white tablecloths provide contrast, while the bar separates itself in a scarlet blaze. Part of the kitchen peeks out onto the dining room, where a flurry of chefs can be seen hustling gracefully in the narrow space.

The menu is divided simply into three categories: mouth amusements, greens and main events. The food itself is grounded in pleasing standards that feature a unique spin — think scallops with red miso coconut milk, pickled beets salad with limoncello-honey vinaigrette and roasted Peking duck breast with smoked gouda cauliflower mash and yellow pepper ginger coulis. Luckily, we were dining with friends that night, and had the opportunity to sample several dishes.

My husband Dave and I started with the pork carnitas ($8). Juicy chunks of pork mingled with buttery lashings of Campo de Montalban, a blended Spanish cheese similar to Manchego. A lighter-than-air basil scallion crepe floated atop, miraculously supporting a caramelized tower of sweet, piquant onion apple relish.

Rebecca chose the coconut-marinated calamari ($7). Presented in an oversize martini glass, the jumble of golden calamari proved perfectly crisp, then tender. It took some time to work towards the bottom, where a cool tomato escabeche flirted sweetly with the sour, sharp tang of cider vinegar.

Jeff, having visited previously, was inexorably drawn to the tuna tataki ($10). Generous slices of sautéed tuna are rimmed with a peanut crust and served rare. The bok choy slaw provided a zip of color and fresh flavors, while the furikake dipping sauce was a touch sweet, yet infused with the unmistakable hallmark of umami.

Lest you mistakenly think we were teetotalers, we all shared a Shaps & Roucher-Sarrazin Cote de Nuits 2003 ($45). This smooth, supple red is medium-bodied and pleasingly ripe. The frequently changing wine list holds a plethora of whites, reds, and everything in between — several wines are also available by the glass.

We all skipped salads in order to asses the hot promise of the main events. Both of the men-folk ordered the caramelized onion bison meatloaf ($19). This ain’t your mama’s meatloaf, and it sure ain’t your daddy’s arid foray into buffalo burgers. It was tender and juicy, with a luscious “beefier-than-beef” taste. A rich mound of mashers provided the foundation, and incidentally, did wonders at drinking in the rich steak sauce. This was all so good that my husband, who holds a certain distaste for Popeye’s favorite green vegetable, consumed every bit of wilted spinach from the plate.

After much rumination, Rebecca settled upon the blackberry glazed organic king salmon with lo mein ($23). I don’t usually care for the dull ’pink’ taste of farmed salmon, but one bite has me yearning for another even as I write this. The blackberry glaze was the perfect accent on this perfectly plump portion.

You’ll never believe what I had: the pan-fried crab cake ($23)! In a word, “woof." In several: the thick patty of crab was intensely sweet, rich and fresh, aided and abetted by the creamy, piquant peppedew tartar sauce. Sweet potato-jicama coleslaw cradled the crab, and a frizzy head of fresh micro greens made for an impeccable crown.

We were full and ready for the bill, but when the waitress came to ask if we wanted dessert, I simply had to inquire what was available. It all sounded excellent! Luckily, the chef was willing to do a sampler-style dessert platter ($15). There was the mouthwatering combination of a coconut-white chocolate blueberry bread pudding, topped with a scoop of Bailey’s chocolate-chunk ice cream. That perennial favorite creme brulee came garnished with berries and a perfectly crisp sugar crust. Full-bodied Frangelico bittersweet chocolate truffles were tempered by the light styling of a baked Alaska key lime pie. I finally had to throw down the napkin in glorious defeat.

Create Bistro — the secret’s out now.

Create Bistro
10417 Warwick Blvd., Newport News
Phone: 240-2776 Fax: 223-1026

Specialties: upscale bistro
Price range: mouth amusements: $7-$11; greens: $7-$9; main events: $19-$28
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; bar open late night
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes; vegan dishes also available upon request.
Wheelchair accessible: yes, but quarters are rather tight
Payment: cash, credit cards, checks
Noise level: conversational to noisy
Atmosphere: upscale casual
Additional Information: catering, daily specials, wine dinners, private parties, gift certificates; reservations highly recommended.

Star rating: food 4 3/4-5, atmosphere 4 1/2, service 4 1/2
(out of five stars)

Philly Up For Less

2007-04-03T12:46:00.000-07:00

I was a cheese steak virgin. I'd never been to Philadelphia, nor had I gone in search of its legendary sandwich. Yet when I kept hearing folks talking glowingly about the subs at Straight Outta Philly, I knew it was time to suck it up and chomp one down.

Located just across from Hoss's in Newport News, the restaurant can be hard to pick out, housed in a generic, grey strip mall. One step through the front door dispels any sense of the humdrum: black-and-white checkerboard floors, a jukebox and a plethora of 50s-esque trinkets conjure up a classic, colorful burger joint.

The lunch crowd was brisk and busy. Cleared tables were wiped down and immediately re-seated, while a steady stream of people kept the door flapping with carry-out orders. As busy as they were, the wait staff proved exceptionally friendly and efficient. Our waitress took our orders, dropped off drinks, and continued on with her other tables.

We'd nursed our glasses halfway down when she came back with our overflowing baskets. I had an original Philly sandwich, the hot roasted pork ($5.95). For just under six bucks, this was eight impressive inches of piled-high pork. The texture and flavor was reminiscent of barbecue, the gravy soaked in to keep every morsel nice and juicy. A layer of provolone melted into the top, while a bottom-layer of hot peppers kept every bite interesting. This was a really lovely sandwich, although I'll ask for more of the spicy peppers next time.

Dave kept it authentic with the classic cheese steak ($5.95). Another sky-high pile of steak was mounded in a hoagie roll and topped with melting white American cheese. You can request any number of additional toppings, and he went for lettuce & onion. I plucked a piece of steak from his roll and was suitably impressed by the rich, meaty flavor. Dave folded up the hoagie and pushed it in my direction, "You've gotta get the whole package!" He was right. This was pure cheese steak bliss.

Both sandwiches came nestled into a golden batch of piping hot fries. With a little black pepper for me, and a little salt for Dave, we were more than pleased.

Aside from these classic Philly-style offerings, you can also find a variety of hot and cold sandwiches, burgers and hot dogs. Pasta, pizza, chicken and fish round out the menu, while soups and salads make for a great retreat to the lighter side. For those who may still be hungry (?!?), adults may find solace in the fried cheese cake or canolis, while younger folks will undoubtedly be swayed by the case of Hershey's assorted ice cream bars and cones.
Lucky for us, one doesn't have to go all the way to Philly for good food at a great value, with quick and friendly service.

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Straight Outta Philly
809 Old Oyster Point Road, Newport News
Phone: 595-7860
Specialties: cheese steaks, hoagies
Price range: hoagies/sandwiches: $4.95-$8.50; pasta: $5.95-$6.95; parmigiana: $5.95-$7.95; chicken: $5.95-$9.95; seafood: $5.95-$11.95; appetizers: $1.95-$6.95; soups/salads: $2-$7.95; stromboli/pizza: $5-$15
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., Monday-Thursday; 10:30 a.m.- 10 p.m., Friday-Saturday; 10:30 a.m.- 8 p.m., Sunday
Alcohol: draft & bottle beer, wine coolers
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: diner
Additional Information: catering, daily specials, draft beer, two televisions
Star rating: food 3 1/2, atmosphere 3, service 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

German Music Imports & Cafe

2007-03-29T13:26:00.000-07:00

For years, I wondered how on earth a tiny little German music import store could function, in of all places, York County. Then one day, I noticed that the sign had grown - "& Cafe" had been tacked onto the end of "German Music Imports."

Was Das Waldcafe in Newport News finally getting a little friendly competition? Intrigued, I made plans to drop in and find out.

It is housed in yet another unassuming strip mall off of Route 17. Stepping inside, I momentarily experienced sensory overload - German magazines, cassette tapes, glasses, snacks, posters and what seemed to be the contents of some great-grandmother's German trinket collection, covering every available surface. I loved it instantly.

Half of the room is dedicated to retailing German music and imports, while the opposite side functions as the restaurant. Tables, draped in plastic-covered white lacy tablecloths, are arranged for maximum seating capacity, with a single booth close to the kitchen.

My husband and I opted to sit close to the lace-covered front window. Next to a small pond, a forest of live plants were dotted whimsically with gnomes. Glancing at the beverage listing, my eyes were drawn to the eclectic teas - rosehip, fennel, and lime flower, to name a few. Finally settling on a frosty Hefe-Weizen (23 ounces/$5.50), we had a few minutes to pore over the menu.

The classics are in force here, with Leberkaese (pan-fried pork or beef loaf served with fried egg and potatoes; $9.95), Wursts (sausages; $7.95) and Jaegerschnitzel (a breaded veal or pork cutlet; $10.95) vying for attention. After much deliberation, my husband went with the gulasche, while I chose the Blutwurst Belegte Brote (6.95), an open-faced blood sausage sandwich.

Our waitress reminded me instantly of dining out in the outskirts of Ramstein; she was blunt, unflappable and armed with a wry, engaging sense of humor. She also had no problem in answering my multiple questions on the menu choices, and offering some recommendations of her own.

Sitting back to check out the surroundings, it was obvious that this was a tightly-knit operation; one waitress, one or two mysterious folk back in the kitchen, and sometimes a third working the retail side. Folk who were obviously regulars began piling in at an amazing rate, and soon our sole server was running laps around the room.

Having gotten in just under the wire, we soon had generously portioned plates of German goodness in front of us. Dave took one bite of his gulasche, and started laughing, before offering me a taste. The slowly-cooked beef was meltingly tender in its rich gravy, and piled upon some of the fluffiest spaetzle (small boiled dumplings that resemble noodles) I've tasted yet. Sadly, it was also the last bite he willingly handed over, and none was left to take home.

Now, I'd never had blood sausage before, so my sandwich was an entirely new experience. It was surprisingly smooth-tasting, freckled with chunks of fat, and quite dark. It made a good companion to the hearty German bread, spread with just the right amount of cream cheese. Filling stuff, and hopefully, good for the iron-count as well.

As if that weren't enough, each of our orders came with sides.

I had the red cabbage, which was rosy and soft, with muted, warming spices. Dave went with the German potato salad, which had a consistency somewhere between cubed and mashed. The bright flavor was enhanced by smoky chunks of bacon, and both sides were a fine foil to the rich meats. A basket of rolls was set out, along with butter, but we skipped these, as the flavor and texture was unassuming.

On return visits, I've worked my way through the wursts, and been pleased every time. Now if I can just manage to save room one of these days for dessert, it will be a full, fine meal indeed. «

The Glass Pheasant Tearoom

2007-03-29T13:18:00.000-07:00

Sure, I'd seen the Glass Pheasant Tearoom before, tucked away snugly in yet another strip mall. As neither an aficionado of tea nor 'ladies who lunch', I'd never bothered to pop in. Then one day, my mom called for a weekday lunch date, and- guess where she wanted to eat?
We walked in around 11:30 a.m. to a very charming dining room, brimming with antiques, tea cosies, and about half full with an early lunch crowd. A server/hostess allowed us to select our table, which was set with beautiful tea cups and fresh flowers. The menu offerings are appropriately geared towards light lunch items and pastries. Quiches, regular salads, and a variety of lunch salads were in full effect.
There were only two servers/hostesses working the lunch, and it took longer than I anticipated before one worked her way back to our table. My mom ordered the Triple Salad Plate ($7.95), a sampler featuring the chicken, tuna and egg salads, along with a raspberry iced tea. I went with the grilled panini, and kept it simple with un-iced water.
We seemed to have arrived just in time; shortly every table was full, and the servers running to keep up. Even so, our meals were delivered in a reasonable amount of time, along with a basket of warmed sliced bread. The plates were beautifully arranged, very colorful and enticing. The salad sampler held a thick wedge of watermelon, a sprig of red grapes, baby carrots, sliced apple and an English cucumber. The main attraction sat in three generous scoops on a vividly green lettuce leaf. The tuna salad was nice and light; the egg salad followed along in a similar vein, refreshing and pleasing. The chicken salad was truly a stunner, brilliantly curry-yellow, yet subtle in flavor. Tender chunks of chicken, pineapple, celery and roasted peanuts came together in a surprisingly savory blend that begged repeat visits. Well, at least from my fork, until it was firmly swatted away.
My own plate held a similar array of colorful fruits and veggies, all crisp, fresh and sweet. The panini was stuffed to overflowing with turkey, Swiss cheese, tomato, sprouts and a delicious pesto mayonnaise. My only quibble here is that there was too much mayo, rendering the eating of this sandwich a most unlady-like affair. The combination of roasted meats, grilled bread and cheese, however, proved too much to resist; I flagged down our server for additional napkins, and all was well.
The sandwich also came paired with crunchy, sour-sweet pickles, and a handful of potato-skin style 'chips'. Both were wonderful, and as I discovered at the end of the meal, all homemade. In fact, everything except the bread was made in house, and all very well prepared.
This homemade touch extends to the croissants, tarts and scones, which beckoned from the front-of-house display case. Next time, I'll get some to go.
Chef/owner James Defigio has been at the helm for about a year and a half now. His focus on quality food is evident on every plate, and his adherence to 'keepin' it in the kitchen' is laudable. And in this case, smashingly successful.

Spectator's

2007-03-29T13:07:00.001-07:00

PLAY BALL!

Dave and I hit the highway, headed towards Williamsburg's Monticello Marketplace. Spectator's, a sports bar bearing the catchphrase "Food & Fun," had recently come on my radar. Our afternoon out coincided with the Australian MotoGP (it's a motorcycle race, for all you non-Moto fans); nothing I like more than taking care of business in one fell swoop.

We arrived minutes after the race had started. The interior of Spectator's is clean and open; couples, families and singles all seemed equally at home in front of one of the many televisions, or outside on the open patio.

A quick glance at the multitude of monitors revealed the prevailing sport of choice: football. The host quickly assured us it would be no problem to change the channel. After locating a suitable booth, we were seated, menus in hands, watching the exciting first lap. The cool thing here are the tabletop speakers, which let you tune into the set of your choice. Nice touch!

SAY IT AIN'T SO, JOE!

Several minutes passed before our waitress popped by the table. It was only 4 p.m., so we requested a couple of Budweisers, with the warning that we wouldn't be ordering dinner for at least another hour. "We don't serve dinner until 6 o'clock," she promptly informed us, pretty much the last thing we wanted to hear. I amended the order to include some Buffalo wings ($6.95) to tide us over, along with a water - no ice.

She scribbled on her notepad, then asked what that second thing had been. "A water with no ice," I repeated; she scribbled something, then looked at me again. "You want a Bud Light how?" I started from the beginning: a regular Bud in a bottle - not draft - a Foster's in the bottle and a water with no ice. She nodded and hurried off.

We were able to catch four more laps before she cruised by the table again. "So, that was just a regular Bud Lite you wanted, right?" I smiled, said that I would like a regular Budweiser in the bottle ... and a water, no ice. Mumbling something about wanting to get the order right, she disappeared again.

Two more laps raced 'round, and she finally returned. Bud and Foster's in bottles were set down, along with a steaming order of Buffalo wings. No water in sight, and she was gone before I could ask again.

The wings were fat specimens, steaming and construction-cone orange. I pulled one out and bit in. Juicy. Hot. Bland. I looked down at my orange-colored fingers, the hallmark of the typically fiery and exciting sauces used to coat wings. I bit again. Juicy. Meaty. Bland. Never mind the heat, where was the flavor?

CURVEBALL!

The race roared to an end (go Melandri!) We were faced with the prospect of sitting in a room with some very excitable football fans, and no dinner for another hour. I called the waitress over, and asked if it would be possible to place an order for dinner now, so we could be served as close to 6 p.m. as possible. She didn't know, so I asked if she could check with her manager.

Moments later, she returned with the surprising good news: "Actually, we're already serving dinner." Dave and I had come to our decisions earlier, so we placed our orders and sat back with a fresh adult beverage.

DROPPING THE BALL!

I ordered the seafood skewers ($13.95), two grilled skewers lined with shrimp, bay scallops and tomatoes.

Grilled may be one way to put it; I'd say that the seafood was uniformly overcooked and burnt. Even so, the scallops were emitting an odor that was less than fresh. The plate came with a small ramekin of vegetables. The brilliant colors of the green beans, summer squash and zucchini were misleading: they tasted bland, and the texture was mushy.

Dave had ordered the Sunset Menu flounder, fried ($9.95). What she brought to the table was a pale, gelatinous-looking piece of broiled fish. He told her that he'd ordered the fried, and with a word of apology, she took the plate back to the kitchen.

Having lost interest in the main part of our meal, Dave and I focused on the fries. Not a great example of America's favorite potato, but not bad once salt, pepper and ketchup were applied.

Before we'd made a dent in the pile, the waitress returned with a piping hot plate. The flounder had gone several shades beyond golden-fried perfection. It was dark, like tree bark. Dave cut into it, tasted, grimaced, then offered his fork up to me.

The exterior portions of the fish were dramatically over-cooked and dry, while the center was still cool to the touch. The french fries that came on the side were also overcooked, and in keeping with the theme, the vegetable medley was mushy. Finally, there was only one plate between us and home base, and that was the chocolate cream pie (included on the Sunset menu). Chocolate-flavored whipped cream on a cookie crust - it tasted of elementary school and cheap cartons of milk.

STEEEEEEEEERRRRRRRRIIIIIIIIIKE THREE, YOU'RE OUT!

She finally brought the waters - both with ice.

Olivia's at the Point

2007-03-29T12:36:00.000-07:00

Olivia's at the Point, in Gloucester Point, beckoned quietly but insistently from just across the Coleman Bridge. My husband and I finally heeded that call one Sunday afternoon.

Located in an aging strip mall, the interior is fairly spacious, well-lit and open. We arrived early, beating the post-church crowd, and had our pick of tables. We chose a window-front booth, and checked out the menu.

Sunday offers both regular menu items and specials: lunch and dinner is served all day. Seafood plays a heavy hand here, as does pasta, steaks, sandwiches and salads. My husband was drawn in by the promise of fresh fried flounder ($13.99). Sadly our waitress gave a small shake of her head. "I haven't seen CatBird all weekend, and he's the one who usually brings it to us- but let me double-check." CatBird brings the fresh flounder in? Sounds pretty authentic and local to me.

When she returned with a negative on the flounder, we'd decided to split the Crab Muffins ($7.99), and continued perusing the menu for our entree choices. Finally, Dave decided upon the open-faced prime rib sandwich ($7.99), while I ordered the crab cakes ($13.99). I know, I know, but what can I say: I'm a sucker for the fresh crab.

As the church crowd finally began ambling in, our appetizer arrived in the form of one piping hot plateful of bubbling, crabby, cheesy goodness. Even though cheddar was the dominant flavor, I could still taste the freshness of the crab. Served on a nicely toasty English muffin and crowned with sliced tomato, this was gooey, satisfying goodness. We couldn't finish it all, but I'm happy to report that it reheated quite nicely for lunch the next day.

The restaurant at this point was getting decidedly full, yet our increasingly busy waitress kept up admirably with the hustle. Dave's sandwich came large and in charge, a uniform piece of beef smothered in mushroom gravy and sauteed onions. He dug in with knife and fork, laughed, dug in again. Then, "You may have one bite, and one bite only! This may be the best prime rib sandwich that I've ever tasted." I took my one bite without protest. The meat was beefy and utterly tender, while the gravy was full-flavored, and rich with mushroom-umami. I'm sure I'll try plenty more prime rib sandwiches in my life, but thus far, this was top-notch.

He'd requested fries, but the plate came with a side of veggies. Anathema, if you've been keeping up with his tastes, so he passed the veggies to a runner with another request for fries.

My two crab cakes came fat and broiled, no other adornment necessary. Again, the crab was decidedly fresh, and composed the majority of the cake. A squeeze of lemon provided just the right acidity to the sweet meat. I did request the sauteed veggies as a side, and found the colorful trio of squash, zucchini and carrots quite fresh and tasty. My house salad was pretty average: lettuce, tomatoes, onions and carrots with a sweet, house-made balsamic vinaigrette. Luckily, that left more room to sample Dave's fries, which had finally arrived. They were hot, thin, and just a little spicy- we both approved.

Our waitress returned to tempt up with dessert, and indeed we were tempted by the array of homemade goodies. In the end, we decided to save our swollen bellies, boxed up the leftovers, and headed back home.

Olivia's proved to be a most unexpected groovy treat, giving true to the old adage, 'you can't judge a book by its cover'. Our waitress provided excellent and prompt service, while the owner made rounds to each table, checking to see if things were okay. Those attitudes are, quite frankly, refreshing. As far as I could tell, each and every person who crossed that threshold was privy to the same treatment. Throw in some killer seafood and gut-busting entrees, and I don't have any problem crossing that bridge again- and again- and again.

Red Maple Inn

2007-03-29T10:08:00.000-07:00

The Red Maple Inn is postcard perfect, a tenderly renovated, antique-filled two-story house surrounded by stunning gardens. My husband and I chose to visit on a lazy Sunday afternoon for the "Sunday Supper," a Southern-tinged fixed menu with varying entree and side options.

Hostess and co-owner Charlene Fowler greeted us graciously, and led us to a cozy adjoining dining area.Our server ambled by with menus, waters and the modest wine list. He also mentioned, much to my husband's delight, that the listed pork chop was being replaced by a grilled ham steak. A no-brainer, to be certain.

Dave Bankes, co-owner and Sunday chef, came out of the kitchen and chatted amicably with us for a few minutes. He takes command one day a week to give his son and full-time executive chef Ben Bankes a day of rest. His passion for the restaurant and gardens was palpable and refreshing.

As our waiter returned with the wine, he slipped back into the kitchen to ready our meals.The Hugues Beaulieu 2003 Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet was light-bodied, with hints of peach and apple balanced by a bright squirt of lemon-lime, and a hair away from being grape juice at only 12.5 percent alcohol. Sipping away, I glanced around the room. An old piano stood proudly at the rear, laden with plates and serving pieces. Antiques, all for sale, hung on the walls and sat on the sideboard. Tables, chairs, and dishes are all a charming medley of mix 'n' match pieces.

First course was the salad, a mixture of fresh field greens and marinated tomatoes, onions and peppers. Really, a classic chopped salad, which had just the right ratio of tart to sweet, and was the perfect beginning to the meal. Along with that, we received warmed sweet potato muffins dusted with a touch of powdered sugar. Subtly sweet and spicy, I can see why people request these to take back home.

Our entrees arrived spice-dusted and strewn with rose petals. My husband's grilled ham steak was exceptionally good, very juicy, meaty and tender. The seasonal vegetables, which in this case were summer squash, zucchini, onions and grape tomatoes, were lightly sautéed and tender-crisp. A light sprinkling of salt was all it needed to ramp up the fresh flavors to perfection. The herb-seasoned white rice was a bit sparse in the herbage department, but fluffy nonetheless.

My own plate was truly a sight to behold. The crab cake, lightly sautéed and perfectly browned, was heavy with fresh-tasting jumbo lump crab, and light on the filler. It was just fine sans sauce, but a quick dip in the sassy remoulade revealed the perfect pairing between sweet meat and zippy sauce.

My sides included a baked sweet potato that was melting with maple butter, and sautéed peas and mushrooms. Again, the vegetables were wonderfully cooked and seasoned, and notably fresh in taste.Although our waiter tempted us with creme brulee and coffee, we'd both reached maximum capacity.

After paying the bill, we went for a quick stroll out back. It was then we realized that, in addition to the covered porch at the side, there is also seating outside among the flowers. The backyard is alive with colorful flora, all carefully maintained by Dave Bankes. We spent several minutes looking at roses, phlox, daylilies and the herbs that had been on our plates.

Red Maple Inn is truly a welcome departure from the fast-food, hurry-up mentality of corporate America. This is the place where a diner (not an eater) can relax, chat, and spend a couple of leisurely hours enjoying good food and conversation.

Hayashi Sushi & Grill

2007-03-27T15:14:00.000-07:00

Huge imposing black doors. Long, luxurious cocktail lounge. A compact sushi bar, flanked by an open kitchen. Double dining rooms, one side devoted to the art of the hibachi, both sides a dazzle of color, texture and flow. Hayashi’s here, baby, and Newport News’ City Center at Oyster Point is its new home.
Dave and I popped by one early evening, and were immediately led to an intimate table. Our server offered each of us a warm cloth to cleanse our hands, then took our order.

Normally fans of sushi a la carte style, we were on our way to see the Kodo Drummers of Japan (highly recommended). With that in mind, we decided upon the “Special Boat for Two” ($45). The chef’s mix of assorted sashimi, nigiri, and rolls, fleshed out with soup or salad made this a no-brainer.

My house salad arrived in an elegant eye-shaped dish. Piled high with crisp greens, slivers of red cabbage, carrots, tomato and an apple, it was visually appealing. But the taste? In a word, awesome! The light sesame-based dressing was a little sweet, a little nutty and the perfect complement to the bright, fresh salad. Dave began with a classic bowl of miso soup. While I’m not usually fond of miso, this was one excellent rendition. The broth was well-balanced and warming, bobbling with bright bursts of green onion. All in all, a very nice start.

I also ordered my favorite salad, ika sansai ($8). This cold, marinated squid salad came in a petite pile, flanked by thinly sliced cucumbers. We both dug in. While the cuttlefish was fresh, we couldn’t find the spice in the advertised spicy sesame dressing. Our server checked to make sure it was okay, but I assured her we were just saving room for our ship o’ sushi, which wasn’t entirely an untruth.

The giant wooden boat, complete with netting, could barely fit across our table. We ooh-ed and ah-ed appreciatively as she managed to maneuver it in catty-corner style. The colorful array of gleaming fish exuded the fresh scent of clean ocean water, and we eagerly set chopsticks in motion.

There were two rolls, California and a spicy tuna with artful tails of tempura shrimp on each end. The first was nice and light, but the spicy shrimp and tuna lit up like a happy fish firecracker in my mouth. The sashimi was vibrant and well-represented: red fin tuna, fresh and clean; pale, fatty belly-meat of tuna, melts in your mouth like butter; raw squid decoratively cross-hatched, but with a chewy texture and mild flavor; red clam, fairly firm, subtle in taste; salmon, smooth and buttery; and octopus, a little sweet, a little chewy, a-lot-of-fun suckers.

It was a heroic amount of food that was everything sushi should be: quality ingredients, artful arrangement and very, very fresh fish.

Our waitress smilingly asked if we were interested in dessert — a choice of sorbet — but it certainly wasn’t happening that night! She brought our check and a segmented orange, which was just our speed.

I’ve been to Hayashi several times since they’ve opened, ordered takeout, and even used them for catering. Without exception, the quality of the food has been consistently fresh, flavorful and clean. One recommendation for that special night out: omakase, basically a ’chef’s choice’ style tasting menu.

You lucky online readers can check out the photos from previous nights:

Simply put, an amazing experience presented by a team that is fluent in the art of sushi.

Hayashi Sushi & Grill
11820 Merchants Walk, Suite 106, Newport News
Phone: 223-5783
Specialties: hibachi grill, sushi
Price range: appetizers: $3-$16; salads: $2.50-$14.50; hibachi grill dinners: $13.95-$29.95; Japanese entrees: $16.95-$27.95; sushi entrees: $15.95-$80.00; sushi also available per roll.
Hours: Lunch: 11 a.m.- 2 p.m. Monday-Friday; Dinner: 4:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 4:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 12-11 p.m. Saturday, 4:30-9 p.m. Sunday
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: romantic, upscale
Additional info: daily specials, catering, hibachi grill, sushi bar, lunch and dinner
Star rating: food 4, atmosphere 4 1/2, service 4
(out of five stars)

Nestled In

2007-03-25T15:30:00.000-07:00

I love spring for a multitude of reasons: fresh spring asparagus, fields of newly-bloomed flowers and cute baby bunnies. My personal seasonal highlight tends to come along in mid-March, with the annual re-release of Cadbury's Mini-Eggs.

Thin, crispy candy shells, painted in speckled pastels, encircle tiny milk-chocolate eggs. I'm certainly no candy freak, but I look forward to these with every ounce of enthusiasm my 7-year old self could possibly hope to have mustered.

While there's no shame in eating them out of hand (or out of the freezer), I'm particularly fond of making Easter nests: cookies or confections crafted into cute, kid-sized nests, and crowned with candy eggs. Many renditions utilize chow mein noodles or thumb print cookies, but that leaves out one very important component from the equation: coconut!

There are plenty of good coconut macaroon recipes out there, but this special time calls for a special recipe: I turned to Ina Garten for assistance. Egg whites, vanilla and a pinch of salt partner with equal portions coconut and sweetened condensed milk. Once in the oven, the scent of sweet coconut sneaks into the air in about 20 minutes. Ten minutes more sees them transform into tender, rich little cookies; adequate browning ensures a charmingly nest-like exterior.

If ever there was a recipe suitable for the whole family to join in, this is it. Adults can handle the whipping of egg whites and the baking of the cookies, while kids can portion out the dough, and carefully fill each finished nest with a bounty of colorful eggs.

Coconut Macaroons

adapted from Ina Garten

14 ounces sweetened shredded coconut
14 ounces sweetened condensed milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 extra-large egg whites, at room temperature
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 12-ounce package Cadbury Mini-Eggs

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Combine coconut, condensed milk, and vanilla in bowl. Whip egg whites and salt on high speed in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment until they make medium-firm peaks.
Carefully fold the egg whites into the coconut mixture. Drop the batter onto sheet pans lined with parchment paper using either a 1 3/4-inch diameter ice cream scoop, or 2 teaspoons. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. Cool briefly, then fill with eggs.

Cook's Notes: I like to press the mini-eggs into the macaroons while slightly warm and still pliable. The size of these cookies will generally hold three comfortably.

The Bachelor & The Chick

2007-03-20T17:53:00.000-07:00

I perched on the edge of a paint-splattered stool in a tiny yellow kitchen. A small tray filled with cheese and crackers sat in front of me, and I idly indulged in the new-to-me luxury of oozingly warm, creamy brie.

My date had his back to me. Opened cans were spread across the limited counter space, and we chatted while he chopped and minced tomatoes, olives and garlic. A gleaming silver pan held a spreading pool of oil, heating slowly on the stove top. After a single green onion plopped in provided a satisfying pop, he added the rest, along with a fragrant burst of garlic.

He paused for a sip of wine and a sly smile. "This is the first meal that I made up," he explained while washing his hands. Opening a package of chicken breasts, he continued: "Everybody should know how to make a few good meals. This one's easy, pretty cheap and tastes great."

The chicken breasts were dredged in seasoned flour, then added to the now sizzling oil. In a few minutes time, they'd nicely browned. He put them off to the side, then poured in some wine. It sputtered for moment, then bubbled enthusiastically, releasing something tantalizing into the air with the quick scraping of a wooden spoon.

In went the remaining melange of ingredients. The tomatoes were roughly mashed, and the scent changed again, increasingly complex. We continued chatting as he cleaned up. The chicken breasts were at last added back to the sauce, and he covered each with a fat wedge of feta, crumbling the rest into the pan. Once the crumbles were mixed in, he dropped the heat down to low, then covered it all up.

I'd never had a guy cook for me before, and had certainly never seen it done with this much casual confidence. If the scent in the air was any indication, it was going to be one remarkable evening with this dude Dave.

Bachelor's Mediterranean-Style Chicken

1 lb. boneless skinless chicken breasts
flour, for dredging
salt and pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch green onions, chopped
1 1/2 cups white wine
½ (11.1 ounce) jar pitted kalamata olives, roughly chopped
4 medium tomatoes, chopped
6-8 ounces whole feta, thickly sliced lengthwise

Dredge chicken breasts in flour seasoned with the salt and pepper: shake off excess.
Add olive oil and butter to medium deep skillet over medium heat until combined.
Add the garlic and scallions, cooking until just golden, then raise heat to medium-high.
Saute chicken breasts in pan until lightly browned on both sides: remove to the side.
Deglaze pan with 1 1/2 cups white wine, scraping any blackened bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon.
Add the chicken breasts back to the skillet, along with the olives and tomatoes.
Cook uncovered over medium heat, flipping once, for about 10 minutes, until mixture is slightly reduced.
Place slices of feta over each breast, and crumble any excess into the sauce.
Ladle a bit of the sauce over the feta; cover, and reduce heat to medium low.
Let simmer about 15 minutes, until ready.

Please see this posting for further serving suggestions.

Three Olives

2007-03-14T05:51:00.000-07:00

As my husband Dave and I drove up to Williamsburg’s Three Olives Greek Restaurant, I had visions of fat gyros and fluffy falafels.

I couldn’t have been more wrong in my assumption.

Three Olives sets a slightly upscale tone with flashy modern architecture and the ever-popular hanging art glass lighting. On Saturday evening, the room was buzzing with diners — a reservation assured that we weren’t sent to the lounge to kill time while tables cleared.

The host led us to a four-top with banquet-style seating. We quickly parked ourselves on the bench for maximum people-watching. After about 10 minutes, another couple was seated beside us. In moments, they had water, a complimentary appetizer and the assurance that their waitress would be with them soon. Somebody finally came by our table with water, adding that our waitress should also be with us in a moment. Almost 20 minutes after we sat down, she finally showed up.

We selected a bottle of Greek wine — the only option available in this appropriately focused wine list. Before any further time was lost, we went ahead and placed the remainder of our order. Another server came to present and pour the Kouros Red of Nemea 2003 ($24) — a pleasantly dry red table wine, neither overpoweringly tannic, nor too frivolous with fruit.

The pace of service finally began to pick up when our waitress returned with the complimentary appetizer.

The simple bread rolls came with a plate of herb-enhanced dipping oil. I’m not sure what the herbs were, as I couldn’t get past the bracingly sharp vegetal character of the oil.

The appetizers are divided into hot/cold choices, and as usual, there was some difficulty coming to a decision. Presciently, there is a Hot Greek Sampler ($9.95 for two) offered. Soft triangles of warm pita bread provide the perfect utensil to sample the tzatziki. This cucumber-yogurt dipping sauce was creamy and smooth, with the requisite tease of garlic tamed by a bright splash of lemon.

Good things in small phyllo packages continued to please as we reached for the tiropitakia and spanakopita: feta cheese and spinach/feta/green onion, respectively. Each golden bite released the warmed, salty cheese in perfectly allotted amounts. Fried zucchini sticks played good cop/bad cop with the fresh, good-for-you squash coated in a crunchy, crispy, undoubtedly bad-for-you crust.

Dolmades, rice-filled grape leaf bundles, were attractively presented, yet fell somewhat short. The rice was subtly seasoned, tasting mostly of lemon. Not bad, but not great partnered up on that particular plate.

The 3 Olive Greek Salad ($4.95) was a large portion of fresh crisp lettuce with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions and feta, covered in a light, zippy house dressing. Garnished by one spicy pepperoncini and a pickled purple beet I couldn’t help but to notice: there were no olives in the salad, not even three.

Dave decided to keep to tradition with his entree of pastichio ($12.95). A large wedge of bechamel-laced pasta was mixed with ground spiced beef, then baked casserole-style. It was good, but a generous dollop of a powerfully cinnamon-enhanced tomato sauce fought to take over the melange of comfortably baked flavors.

I skipped tradition and went straight for seafood in the form of whole grilled rainbow trout ($16.95). This very petite fish had been stuffed with crab and shrimp, and tasted strongly of the advertised bath of olive oil, lemon and oregano. Its accompanying sides didn’t seem to have garnered quite the same amount of attention. Fat potato wedges were disturbingly under-cooked, while the horta (braised greens) were limp and bland.

As we called for the check, a belly dancer shook and shimmied her way across the dining room, something you’ll catch if you come by on a Friday or Saturday night. While younger couples seemed taken aback, the older folks were appreciative, and children looked on in open-mouthed awe.

We took dessert home along with the check: baklava ($3.75). This honey-soaked classic was generously portioned, and just the right mixture of rich nuts and cinnamon-laced phyllo. Truly the perfect way to end the night— or in my case, begin the next day.

Three Olives Greek Restaurant
203 Richmond Road, Williamsburg
Phone: 259-7300
Specialties: Greek/Mediterranean food
Price range: appetizers: $5.45-$9.95; salads: $3.95-$4.95; traditional entrees: $9.95-$15.95; seafood: $10.95-$16.95; from the grill: $12.95-$19.95; kabobs: $12.95-$15.95; desserts: $3-$5
Hours: open 7 days a week, 4:30 p.m. - 10 p.m.
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit card
Noise level: rather noisy
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: lounge area, belly dancing Friday & Saturday evenings from 7:30 p.m.-9 p.m.
Star rating:
food 3,
atmosphere 3 1/2,
service 3 (out of five stars)

The Real Deal

2007-03-09T07:36:00.000-08:00

"Ya'all come back now, y'hear?" While they never actually said this during my visits to FDR, it certainly wouldn't have been out of place. Food Done Right has been slinging down-home food since late 2004, all served up with a dose of Southern sass and good-natured charm.

I'd first noticed the restaurant last year, and only because I had to park right in front of it to get to the supermarket. Stepping up onto the curb, I suddenly realized the mirrored corner windows seemed to house... a restaurant?

Later that week, I returned with my husband, Dave, for breakfast. The food was simple, hearty fare. Tender homemade biscuits ($1.00). Sausage & gravy ($4.95, with biscuits) that could make you scream for mercy, and not in a bad way. Simple eggs, bacon & toast ($5.95), if early morning shrieking wasn't your thing. Even the home fries could sneak in a slowly-rising, long-maintained smile. I began to feel like I was sitting in my Mammaw's kitchen for some serious, post-churchin' chowin' down. Service was alternately friendly and harried, depending upon the crowd, but always sincere. Countless months passed as, yet again, Dave and I strolled out slowly, toothpicks rotating between upwardly-curved lips.

Now, that's not to say there's only breakfast here. There are also mid-day and evening entrees, which differ only in portions. Take heart- they are serious when saying homestyle entrees come sized to feed the family.

Seafood is a favorite of mine, so I wasted no time in exploring their locally-sourced offerings. Crab cakes ($8.95) come grilled or fried; I'll go for the latter every time. Spicy, zingy, and overflowing with lump crab, it's a scrumptious little reminder of why it's great to live here in Tidewater. While their fried scallops ($15.95) tend to get lost under the thick, heavy breading, the oysters ($15.95) are another bivalve entirely. I popped one into my mouth, and the delicate coating was just the right contrast to the wonderful, ocean-laced brine. Like biting into the sea, but breaded and perfectly fried, this was the consummate specimen of oysterdom. Well done.

Country-fried steak ($8.95) turned out to be another gullet-pleaser. Not too heavy, if you can imagine such a thing, even though it came laden with peppery white gravy. Fried chicken ($9.95), on the other hand, was fried a bit much, and came out dry both times I tried it. That's okay, because FDR redeems themselves with some exquisitely mashed potatoes ($1.55). Take your choice of gravies, light or dark; both are excellent.

Soups, salads, and sandwiches are also on the menu. The barbecue sandwich ($7.95) is North Carolina-style 'cue, but strictly standard fare. No smoke, and it arrived on the bun naked and rather dry- a request for additional vinegar sauce solved that nicely. Clam chowder ($6.95, with 1/2 sandwich) comes thick and creamy, studded liberally with hearty chunks of clam. A side of coleslaw turned out to be the perfect palate-cleanser, light and refreshing in taste and texture.

FDR sits tucked into a quiet corner, next to Farm Fresh, and adjacent to Home Depot: new clapboard signage should help you spot it. The interior is simple, clean, and well-lit. Booths and free-standing tables abound, while crafty country collections decorate corner bookcases. While they may not hit a homer on every entree or side, FDR is what they advertise: simple, unpretentious food, cooked up right by real folk.

Long name, killer seafood

2007-03-07T06:09:00.000-08:00

The charmingly named area of Rescue has an even more charmingly named seafood restaurant perched on the edge of Jones Creek in Isle of Wight County.

Captain Chuck-a-Muck’s Ship Store and Grill Secret Hideout #2 is the second incarnation of a restaurant that closed in 2002 due to a fire. Up and running since August 2006, the new location features a small bar and dining area, along with outside seating and views on the deck.

We walked into the open room, which was lined with paper-covered picnic tables. The single waitress was frantically running, so we camped out at an empty table until she made her way breathlessly over. Although the power was flickering and the tables quite full, she had a great sense of humor, and made us feel right at home. We placed our drink orders, then pored over the paper menus, which she had kindly supplemented with a printout of the day’s specials.

She returned with a bottle of the Sterling Vinter’s Reserve Chardonnay ($18.95), carefully tucked into an ice-packed bait bucket. With a quick pop, she opened the top and took the rest of our order, leaving us to sip and survey the surroundings.

Eye candy is in no short order here — nautical trinkets abound, fleshed out with parrots and other Jimmy Buffet-esque touches. It took a moment to realize that we were sitting directly in front of two adjacent garage doors. They were closed that night, but would open directly onto the waterside deck. You can bet I’m coming back for that on balmier days!

Even though the kitchen appeared to be in the weeds (that's kitchen slang for having fallen behind and struggling to catch up), our appetizer made a quick appearance. Fried calamari rings — and tentacles ($7.95) — arrived perfectly crispy and piled high. With a quick lemon twist, we dug in. The same incredulous smile crept across both of our mouths — this was some of the best calamari I’ve had in some time. The squid was tender and fresh, the bread coating was crisp and light, and the accompanying cocktail sauce provided just the right mix of spicy sweetness.

As we nibbled, the waitress came to Dave with an air of apology. They were down to one skimpy fillet of the fish he’d requested, but would be happy to supplement it with a goodly portion of fried grouper, also on special. Can you say the best of both worlds?

So it was that Dave’s platter came out with a not-so slight portion of fried flounder ($19.95). The breading-to-fish ratio was dead-on, allowing the fresh flavor to shine through this perfectly cooked fillet. The grouper was bookend perfect. Fresh and fat, this mild portion was perfect when kissed with a bright squirt of lemon.

The platter was rounded out with two sides and two hushpuppies. The hushpuppies were an excellent example of how simply fried dough can be transcendent when seasoned just right. He also tried out the coleslaw, which was mayo-based, but nonetheless light and refreshing.

I was unable to resist the lure of “THE BEST” crab cakes ($18.95). They weren’t lying! These little mounds were heavy with happy fresh crab, and just enough filler to make it all stick together. Although there were two, I was only able to finish one — the second one made for an incredible lunch the next day.

For my sides, I chose the fries and steamed broccoli. The fries were nicely crisp, not at all greasy and seasoned just right with a little shake of black pepper. The broccoli was vibrant and green, retaining just a touch of firmness to the tooth.

A reader turned me on to this place, and I couldn’t be more pleased — it’s now my go-to choice for local seafood. The family-friendly environment, coupled with pleasant service and killer seafood, is sure to make this one worth the trip.

Captain Chuck-a-Muck's Ship Store and Grill Secret Hideout #2
21088 Marina Road, Rescue
Phone: 356-1005 fax: 357-2538
Web site: www.captainchuck-a-mucks.com
Specialties: fresh seafood
Price range: starters: $2.95-market price; boats: $5.95-$9.95; entrees: $13.95-$19.95
Hours: (winter hours) Tuesday-Thursday: 12-2 p.m. and 5-8 p.m.; Friday-Saturday: 12-9 p.m.; Sunday 2-8 p.m.
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: no
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards, checks
Noise level: conversational to noisy
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: daily specials, dockage, outdoor dining
Star rating: food 4 1/2, atmosphere 4, service 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

Ricotta Onion Pie

2007-03-07T04:59:00.000-08:00

In these increasingly brighter twilight hours, it's not yet spring, not quite still winter. Nonetheless, the nights are chilly, but the time for slow-cooked stews and warming soups has passed. This girl needs a little something different in her life. Could a simple ricotta onion pie hold salvation?

I first prepared this several years ago in honor of a retiring co-worker. It's really quite a simple dish to throw together.

Fry some bacon up, then saute the onions in a touch of the grease until soft and smooth. Mix it all up with some ricotta, green onions, chives, eggs and spices: dump it all in an unbaked pie shell and cook for 30 minutes.

It was easy, it was quick, and most importantly, it was the first thing to disappear from the appetizer table at work that day. Thirty hungry librarians wouldn't steer you wrong, would they?

A recent bout of food doldrums had me thumbing through past recipes, which is how I re-discovered this one. The milder days and chilly evenings seemed to craft the perfect backdrop for a savory pie that was a little rich and very filling. I made this one twice over. The first time I made the mistake of using low-fat ricotta, and entirely forgetting the onion powder. The resulting pie was unsurprisingly blase and bland. The second time, I made a pie crust with lard, used full-fat ricotta and garlic-herb flavored cracker crumbs for the topping.

The verdict? With a salad and a glass of wine, it was the perfect respite for a middling-weather night.

Ricotta Onion Pie

1/2 pound bacon, chopped
2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon melted butter
1/2 cup breadcrumbs or cracker crumbs
1 1/4 cups full-fat ricotta cheese
1 cup water
1 teaspoon olive oil
3/4 cup chopped green onions
1/4 cup minced chives
2 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons flour
2 teaspoons onion powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
freshly grated nutmeg, as desired
1 unbaked pie shell

Preheat oven to 350. Fry bacon until crisp; set aside on paper toweling. Drain off all but about 2 tablespoons of bacon grease, and saute onions until soft and browned, about 20 minutes.
Combine melted butter and crumbs and set aside.
Mix all the rest of the ingredients; add bacon and onions to mixture and combine.
Pour into pie shell and top with crumb mixture. Bake for 30-35 minutes until filling is warmed through.
Cook's notes: A purchased pie crust will do okay here, but a crust made with lard will perfectly complement the savory aspect of the filling. You may also consider using flavored cracker crumbs for the topping, or even mixing in a touch of red pepper flakes. For a hearty vegetarian version, omit the bacon and reduce the onion to one half. Add two pounds of fresh mixed mushrooms; saute in 2 tablespoons butter and proceed with recipe.

adapted from Recipezaar's Arostook

You Sixy Beast

2007-03-06T05:38:00.000-08:00

If the tagline “little bar bistro” behind Six sounds familiar, it’s likely that you’ve run across the sister restaurants, Crackers and Empire, over in Norfolk. Tapas fans have eagerly awaited their foray across the water, and finally, they’ve landed close to the corner of Mellen & Mallory in Phoebus.

I actually made two visits to Six. The first was on a night when they were absolutely mobbed by pre-show patrons bound for The American Theatre. Both the staff and the kitchen seemed completely overwhelmed, and they were out of quite a few items. It turned out they were getting ready to overhaul and change the menu. After giving them a few weeks to get their groove on, Dave and I returned on a very quiet Monday night.

There was only one other table seated, allowing me to take in the full impact of the interior. The lighting is moody and red, the walls are brick and covered with painted and stainless steel art— there’s even a casual lounge at the front, outfitted in low-slung black couches. We chose a seat near the back, next to the chalkboard menu bearing the specials.

Flipping open the menu, I was more than surprised to discover that some of the items I’d tried previously were still listed! I thought back to that night:

—Tomato, basil & fresh mozzarella stack, $6: For a winter tomato, it was surprisingly vibrant and invigorating. A classic that was nicely done.

—Chopped house salad, $5: I was expecting a composed Greek-style salad, in perfectly tapas-sized proportions. What I got was, well, a side salad. For $5.

—Beef carpaccio, $7: Meat somewhat meager, flavor on the mild side.

—Filet ’o’ beef w/mashers, $9: Surprisingly large in size, surprisingly milquetoast in taste.

Back to the matter at hand. We placed our orders, asking if the kitchen could please stagger the dishes, and sat back with a glass of wine. The Hugh Hamilton “The Mongrel” Sangiovese ($32) was a mellow melange of red fruits and held just a touch of spice— it promised to pair fairly well with the variety of plates ahead of us.

That time was nearer than we thought. The waitress returned with one plate, then another, then another. We asked once again if they could slow it down just a bit, as the kitchen still had only the one table to occupy themselves with. With her cheerful acquiescence, we grabbed spoons and chopsticks and got to work.

The tomato & basil soup ($5) was carrot-orange in color, and flecked generously with chopped basil. The warming aroma fulfilled its promise at first sip: the tomato-vegetable blend was perfectly balanced, and not a touch too rich. Probably my favorite dish of the night.

Pork & ginger potstickers with duck sauce & ponzu ($5) were six fat pan-fried dumplings nestled into a sweet, slightly thick dark sauce. The dumplings were good, in an oddly generic way. No one flavor commanded attention: with the dominating power of the duck sauce, this was probably for the best.

Hand-cut french fries with malt vinegar aioli ($5) may have been my second-favorite, but I’m an unashamed french fry-a-holic. Arriving in a cute retro plastic red basket, they were crispy in all the right places and welcomingly soft in all the rest. The malt vinegar aioli was an excellent partner, though we quickly discovered that a mixture of that and the remaining tomato-basil soup was even better.

After a slight breather, the next round of courses arrived. The hummus with grilled pita ($5) came as a scoop of hummus flanked by triangles of pita. The grilled pita wedges were perfectly tasty, but couldn’t make up for the astounding lack of flavor in the hummus. One bite in, we pushed it aside, where it was wordlessly and unquestioningly whisked away by the server.

The gnocchi carbonara ($7) offered a nice foray into the continuing carb-fest. The portly potato dumplings were dressed in a rich creamy sauce: thick crumbles of bacon provided the meaty component, while bright green peas and a touch of shaved parmesan pulled the dish together.

We finally got to the meat of the matter with veal saltimbocca with pan gravy ($9). This dish is a personal favorite- at home. This rendition seemed to have everything going for it- the sauce, the cheese, the pork. Ultimately, it never seemed to quite pull together, and came off as somewhat bland.

The pistachio encrusted lamb chops with port wine glaze ($9) were an interesting and gorgeous plate. Two cute little chops, with their pistachio crusts almost blackened, sat atop a ruby red sauce, green garnish creating an almost Christmas-sy look. However the chops appeared, they were cooked perfectly, one bite revealing a rosy-pink interior. The slight blackened flavor of the pistachios was unexpected, and I’m not certain that’s what the kitchen was striving towards.

I was still anticipating the triple “s” tuna sashimi with seaweed salad & ponzu ($9), when the check arrived. I’d been in the bathroom when the waitress had returned to ask if we cared for anything else, or just the check. Apparently, the sashimi had been forgotten in the quiet non-rush of the evening. As we were stuffed to the gills, it was just as well.

I love tapas-style dining. While Six keeps safely in familiar territory, it's still a welcome addition to the Peninsular dining scene. A little variety is the spice of life, and just the right way to have a fun night out with friends and family. Eat, drink, chat, relax: just make sure you check the schedule at The American Theatre before heading out!

Six Little Bar Bistro
6 Mellen Street, Hampton
Phone: 722-1466 Fax: 727-4790
Web site: www.littlebarbistro.com (site not currently updated with info for Six)
Specialties: tapas and cocktails
Price range: tapas: $1-$9 (add $10 to any one dish to make a full entree)
Hours: open 7 days a week, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: only after 9 p.m.
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit card
Noise level: conversational to very noisy
Atmosphere: casual, chic
Additional Information: no reservations, no splitting checks
Star rating: food 3, atmosphere 4, service 3
(out of five stars)

Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2007 at 11:07 AM Permalink

Parallel 36

2007-02-27T16:44:00.000-08:00

Parallel 36 acquired its name from the scope of the menu, which focuses on foods that span the 36th latitude. Not so coincidentally, Norfolk shares this globe-spanning parallel with Spain, Italy, Greece, Japan, the Middle East, Turkey and Korea.

That’s a lot of cuisines for one restaurant to cover! My interest piqued, Dave and I headed in.

Located at the base of the Granby Street bridge (next to Bloom’s), the exterior was as unassuming as the interior was striking. Outfitted in a sleek array of warming cocoa and cinnamon, flecked with Oriental-style art, it was at once a comfortable and calming vibe. A long bar was visible from the door, but in no way intruded upon the diners.

Although it was fairly empty, there was a noticeable wait for our server. When she arrived, we asked a couple of questions about the wine before settling upon a 2004 d’Arenberg Love Grass Shiraz ($32). Excited that we had picked one of her favorites, she was back fairly quickly to present the bottle. Unfortunately, the wine was corked. It was somewhat longer before she returned with a second, thankfully untainted, bottle that proved to be worth the wait. Juicy, mellow, and thoroughly unpretentious, it’s everything a shiraz should be.

The menu was divided into Minutes (starters), Seconds (soup/salad) and Degrees (entrees), and we sampled our way through each one. Dave began with the macaroni and cheese ($6). A far cry from Kraft’s, this extremely generous portion featured Tillamook sharp cheddar, accented by the lively inclusion of chives. It was pure, perfect comfort in a bowl.

I was unable to resist the siren call of fried calamari ($7). Served in a large martini-style glass, the lightly breaded squid was indeed hot, spicy and cooked just right. A cucumber yuzu sauce pooled at the bottom of the glass, providing relief from the heat, and a welcome textural contrast. I don’t usually finish all portions of a restaurant meal, but this one was gone daddy gone!

As a nod to the seasonally appropriate weather, we split the dumpling soup ($5). Pillowy, Oriental-style dumplings were nestled under a richly flavored meaty broth. The little pork-filled packages were wonderful, but the amazing broth was the star of the show.

The entrees had a lot to live up to, but thankfully didn’t let us down. Dave’s short ribs ($18) were done Korean style and finished with a chili-soy glaze. Mouthwateringly tender, they were without a doubt the best thing we’d tried all night. The accompanying kimchee pancakes were interesting, but not successful in terms of texture or zing. No matter, most anything would have paled in comparison to the sanctity of those short ribs.

I strayed away from my usual oceanic inclinations and ordered what amounted to a vegetarian style-sampler platter ($14). With a Middle Eastern nod, it featured the chef’s take on dolmades: zucchini made up the majority of the savory filling, and each little parcel came wrapped tightly in grape leaves. Fried falafel cakes were a touch mushy, if welcomingly warm with cumin and a touch of slowly building heat. Cute little black-eyed peas provided a cradle for sautéed okra and tomatoes, while skinny spears of asparagus rounded out the greenery. It was altogether a nicely composed plate.

Dessert was tempting, but it was time to throw in the napkin: we were stuffed to the gills!

Parallel 36 has successfully embraced what could pose too broad a concept in fine form. Each component of the meal was well prepared, aesthetically pleasing, and most importantly, quite delicious.

Parallel 36
4226 Granby Street, Norfolk
Phone: 965-9436 fax: 965-9045
Web site: www.parallel36.com
Specialties: foods from the latitude of 36 degrees (Italian, Japanese, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, Korean)
Price range: starters: $6-$10; soup/salads: $3-$7; entrees: $13-$25
Hours: Sunday-Thursday: 11 a.m.- 12 a.m.; Friday: 11 a.m.-1 a.m.; Saturday: 5-11 p.m.
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: only after 10 p.m.
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards, checks
Noise level: conversational to noisy
Atmosphere: upscale casual, romantic
Additional Information: daily specials, monthly themed dinners
Star rating: food 4, atomosphere 4, service 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

Crunchy Potato Wedges

2007-02-20T18:17:00.000-08:00

Consider the humble potato. Baked, mashed, sauteed or fried: the world's favorite little root vegetable will meet these challenges gladly, and then some. I know I'm not alone when saying that potatoes, cut into planks and deep fat-fried, are a favorite. But, there's the whole deep frying issue, which admittedly, isn't the best for anyone's health.

So how can the home cook replicate that tasty, crunchy exterior and soft, welcoming center without gallons of hot oil? Surprisingly, the answer is found in an old restaurant trick.

Potatoes are boiled just shy of mashing stage, then held until ready for the oven. After being bathed in olive oil and seasonings, they cook to a glorious browned crispiness that screams "French fry!". But biting through that golden crust rewards you with the satisfying softness that is pure earthy comfort.

The recipe is fairly basic, and can be re-interpreted in many ways. Need more fiber? Keep the skins on. In a hurry? Cut them before boiling. Bored with salt, pepper and ketchup? Sprinkle them with Thai seasoning and serve with a spicy chili dipping sauce and a squirt of lime. Head southwest with chipotle and salsa. Feeling more Provencal? Try some herbs-de-Provence and a Dijon mustard sauce. Are you a South Beacher? Try it out with sweet potatoes, or any other root-type vegetable.

Personally, I like these best piping hot, with a fresh grind of sea salt, black pepper and a little squeeze of lemon juice. Pommes frites never had it so good.

Crunchy Potato Wedges

4 pounds medium Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed
salt
extra-virgin olive oil
freshly ground pepper

In a large, heavy pot, cover the potatoes with water and bring to a boil. Add a large pinch of salt and cook over moderately high heat until just tender when pierced with a knife, about 20-25 minutes (these should not get as soft as they would be for mashed).
Drain and let cool slightly, then peel the potatoes and cut into wedges.

Transfer the potatoes to 2 large rimmed baking sheets. Drizzle generously with the olive oil, turn to coat and season liberally with salt and pepper.

In a 425 degree oven, roast the potatoes on upper and lower racks of the oven for 40 minutes, switching the pans once, until the potatoes are browned and crisp.
Serve immediately.

adapted from Food & Wine, February 2006

Firkin Frigate

2007-02-20T18:08:00.000-08:00

Firkin & Frigate is a Canadian chain that has been spreading into North America over the past few years. Billed as a British-style pub, its unusual moniker stems from a term once used to describe a 9-gallon measurement. Each franchise is “a little bit different,” but they tend to feature similar fare— and “firkin” in the name.

The first Hampton Roads location sprung up in Newport News’ City Center at Oyster Point. If you’ve driven down Thimble Shoals Boulevard in the past few months, it would be difficult to miss the striking red-and-black facade.
My husband, Dave, and I cruised in to a warm reception from the hostess, who deposited us into a cozy booth. The dining area was an expanse of red and black, broken up by large televisions, pool tables and dartboards.

We sorted through the usual pub-fare suspects, settling just in time to order with the server. She made a few welcome recommendations, not at all minding our barrage of questions, and returned with our beverages in record time.

The kitchen was quick in getting our orders out. I began with a warming bowl of French onion soup ($3.99). Breaking through the gooey Swiss cheese barrier, I encountered a rich, meaty broth that was filled with soft onions and toasted cubes of bread. It was the perfect antidote to the chilly night air, if a touch salty.

Dave started with a round of the Firkin wings ($8.99), served “suicide” hot. The platter set down before him caused a moment of pause.

“These look like they came from a Cornish game hen!” he laughed, picking up a wee, red-tinged little limb. He downed it in one easy slurp, then looked surprised. “It’s actually hot!” I tried one too, and found that, aside from being spicy and aggressively salty, there wasn’t much to chew on. The accompanying fries were coated in a mixture that made sodium crystals begin to form upon my tongue.

Dave’s entree was the hot beef dip ($6.99). Tender slices of roast beef were piled high into a sandwich, with gravy at the ready. The sandwich, while unexceptional, was meaty and filling. Unfortunately, the gravy steered us right back into the salt flats, as did the accompanying fries.

My entree took a walk on the lighter side with the tuna Greek salad ($8.99). An enormous plate held a healthy mound of vibrant fresh greens, strewn with tomatoes, olives, feta, and a Firkin Greek dressing. A grill-marked hunk of tuna sat forlornly on top — one bite confirmed that it had been mercilessly overcooked. Nonetheless, the remainder of the salad was a pleasant surprise. The vegetables were very fresh, the Greek dressing was summery and bright, the crumbles of feta provided just the right tang. I would never have thought that the highlight of our pub dining experience would be the salad, but there you have it.

Pub grub has some basic requirements: it must be filling, it must be comforting and it must be appeal to a broad spectrum. Firkin & Frigate seem to have these bases covered nicely, with some family-friendly options to boot. Throw in some adult-sized fun and games, and you have a model that will pull in the masses.

Firkin & Frigate
711 Thimble Shoals Boulevard, Newport News
Phone: 223-5857 fax: 223-7145
Web site: www.virginiapubs.com
Specialties: pub fare
Price range: (dinner) starters: $4-$10; lighter fare: $14-$17; entrees: $18-$28; dessert: $4-$5
Hours: Sunday: noon-midnight; Monday-Wednesday: 11 a.m.- 1 a.m.; Thursday-Saturday: 11 a.m.- 2 a.m.
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: only at the bar
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational to noisy
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: daily specials, children's menu, Firkin hour daily 2 p.m.-9 p.m., brunch: Saturdays 11 a.m.-4 p.m., Sundays 12 p.m.-4 p.m.
Star rating: Food 3, atmosphere 3, service 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

Posted on Thursday, February 08, 2007 at 01:09 P

Rivers Inn

2007-02-07T05:45:00.000-08:00

The first time I tried to visit the River’s Inn Restaurant in Gloucester County was a puzzling experience. I’d called at 3 p.m. to reconfirm, then headed out at 5 p.m. with my husband, Dave, into the driving rain and across the river.

I couldn’t have been more surprised to pull into an empty parking lot, and a sign that read “closed due to inclement weather.”

We fared better a couple of night’s later. “Table for two?” the hostess asked, leading us to a lovely, mahogany-embossed booth. The dining room was stately in wood and subdued red tones, and at this early hour, surprisingly full. The hostess returned in her role as our waitress, and began by placing copies of the night’s specials in front of us. I love not having to ask the waitress to repeat the specials and prices over and again, so this was a most welcome gesture.

We placed our orders, then relaxed into the voluminous, cushy seats. Nautical paintings brightened up the dining room, while the small bar held a series of black-and-white photographs. Each table offered its own spray of color with small vases of blooming fresh flowers.

Our starter was the sampler platter ($10), featuring fried calamari, escargot, and bacon-wrapped shrimp. The escargot came in two separate, tiny little cups, each brimming with butter, garlic, and two chubby little snails. Two tiny trimmed rounds of toast were judiciously placed atop, inviting two perfectly rich bites. The pale rings of calamari were soft, without any real flavor, sans a dip in the ranch dressing. On the other hand, three bacon-wrapped shrimp had been skewered and cooked just right, with a hint of smoke hovering at the background of each meaty bite.

The entrees came with a salad, a simple affair of field greens, carrots and dried cranberries. The balsamic house dressing was applied in just the right amount, resulting in a most enjoyable basic salad.

Dave knew what he was ordering as soon as he saw the menu: slow-braised short ribs of beef ($20). A massive mound of short ribs came piled high on succulent bacon-mashed potatoes, surrounded by a wealth of meaty juices. The beef was fork-tender and mouthwateringly good. Unsurprisingly, the first bite proved to hold each of those three elements in tantalizing harmony, although it took me several to make sure.

The wine, a 2005 “R. Stuart” Big Fire Pinot Noir ($39), was a bodacious balance of fruits tart and sweet, and made for an excellent partner with the short ribs. It also went surprisingly well with my bouillabaisse ($22).

The plating was spectacular and picture-perfect. Linguine provided the base for a rosy-hued broth, dotted with tomatoes and green onions, filled with all manner of seafood: shrimp, clams, scallops, mussels and salmon. A long slice of baguette beckoned me to dip, and so in I went.

The first spoonful of broth seemed a bit off, confirmed when I began tasting the individual components: all held an overtly fishy taste. Beautiful as it was, I couldn’t find solace from the burgeoning fishiness. From the shrimp to the scallops to the clams, it was just too much, and I finally threw in the towel.

Coconut cream tart ($4.50) was ordered to go, although it didn’t escape from the table before we scooped out a bite. The lush, vibrant custard fairly sang with an exuberant coconut concordance in its pastry shell. Drizzles of chocolate swept across the top, while whipped cream and a stylized chocolate shard rounded out the presentation.

The service was as attentive as the busy dining room would allow, and the experience was fun and lively. However, of all things that a seafood restaurant should get right, it’s the seafood. I went in knowing they’d been closed for two days prior, hoping to get first-of-the-week fresh seafood. However, something seemed fishy.

Aside from this misstep, it was an enjoyable, if somewhat pricey, meal out on the docks. I look forward to a return visit when the adjoining crab deck reopens for seasonal afternoons in gorgeous natural surroundings.

River's Inn Restaurant and Crab Deck

8109 Yacht Haven Road, Gloucester Point

Phone: 804-642-9942 fax: 804-642-9945
Web site: www.riversinnrestaurant.com

Specialties: fresh regional seafood

Price range: (dinner) starters: $4-$10; lighter fare: $14-$17; entrees: $18-$28; dessert: $4-$5

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m.; bar opens at 5 p.m.; Sundays: dinner 4 p.m.-8 p.m.; closed Mondays; hours may change seasonally

Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar

Smoking: no

Vegetarian: vegetarian requests are gladly accommodated

Wheelchair accessible: yes

Payment: cash, credit cards, checks

Noise level: conversational-noisy

Atmosphere: romantic, casual, waterside

Additional Information: monthly wine dinners, private parties, outside crab deck (seasonal), Sunday brunch (seasonal), weekly specials

River's Inn Restaurant and Crab Deck

Food : 3 1/2
Atmosphere: 4
Service: 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

Raspberry-Blueberry Pancakes with Cinnamon-Cream Syrup

2007-01-30T11:47:00.001-08:00

My love, my dove, my fair one, my sweet... I've heard these words whispered many times by my one true love. With Valentine's Day just around the corner, I started thinking of how best to return the sentiment. Inevitably, my thoughts turned to sweet little treats. Dinner we do together almost every day, and lunch on the weekends. Breakfast, however, is largely unconquered territory. While there have been pancakes and biscuits 'n' eggs, usually it's utter simplicity with cereal and milk.

My mind strayed back to the pancakes. Cute, fluffy and a tabula rosa, for sure! They were certain to be the perfect platform for a berry-tinged labor of love.

The blueprint is simple as can be, and adapted from the pages of "The Joy of Cooking." These basic pancakes are a classic recipe that utilize common cupboard ingredients for very tasty results. I tweaked the recipe a bit by adding the juice of one smallish lemon to the whole milk, and letting it sour for about twenty minutes before preceding. It added the perfect tang to the fluffy cakes.

There are many ways to jazz up pancakes, and blueberries are one of my favorites. As a nod to this special day, I decided to use a combination of blue and raspberries, easy enough to find mixed in the freezer section. Once thawed and drained, don't add them into the batter! Doing so results in uneven distribution, and irregular-shaped pancakes. Keep the bowl griddle-side, and plop them into the freshly poured batter rounds individually. Fiddly? A little. But isn't true love worth it?

Raspberry-Blueberry Pancakes

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups buttermilk (I used regular milk, soured with the juice of 1 small lemon)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
frozen blueberries and raspberries, thawed and drained
additional butter, as needed

Thoroughly combine dry and wet ingredients in separate bowls.
Mix batter together quickly, but do not overbeat.
The dry ingredients should barely be moistened with a few quick whisks.
There will be lumps, but these will cook completely out.
Griddle is ready when test drops of cold water bounce and sputter up.
Place about 1/4 cup batter onto hot, lightly buttered griddle.
When bubbles have appeared on the surface, after 2-3 minutes, check to see if undersides have browned.
Turn and cook on second side, which will go more quickly than the first.
NOTE: To keep pancakes warm, place, covered, in a 200-degree oven.

Since you've already come this far, don't reach for that dated bottle of maple! It's easy enough to make a batch of cinnamon cream syrup while the pancakes are griddling away. Corn syrup, sugar, milk, and nice kick of cinnamon combine into an enticingly sweet and intense topping. It's just different enough to make any mouth curve into a smile.

Cinnamon Cream Syrup

1 cup sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/4 cup water
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup whole milk (or 1/2 cup evaporated milk)

In a small saucepan, combine sugar, syrup, water and cinnamon.
Bring to boiling over medium heat, stirring constantly.
Cook and stir 2 minutes.
Remove from heat and cool 5 minutes.
Stir in milk.
Serve warm over pancakes, waffles, or French toast.
Leftover syrup may be gently re-heated.

from 'James River Kitchen'

Bonus photos! Here's the shot for the paper:

And here's what was really going on behind the scenes:

Rice, meat and love: it's risotto time!

2007-01-16T11:49:00.000-08:00

I used to love my risotto with mushrooms, until a saucy little recipe caught my wandering eye. Filled with pure meat-soaked, liver-chopped fun, there was no mistaking this for a demure little side: risotto al ragu is unabashed main dish fare.

That holy trinity of onions, celery and carrots known as a mirepoix are fried in a mixture of olive oil and butter until softened. Then, the big guns come in: ground beef, tomato paste, red wine and a couple of chicken livers simmer until just beginning to reduce.

Now, grab a flat wooden spatula, your rice, and make sure the stock is simmering hot and at the ready. Yes, risotto takes about 25 minutes to complete, but those can be thirty relaxed, almost meditative minutes. Grab a glass of wine. Stir and scrape. Add more liquid. Stir and scrape. Sip on your wine. Before you know it, 20 minutes have passed, and it's time to begin tasting.

Ideally, the mixture should seem somewhat creamy, with the individual rice grains retaining their shape and just a touch of bite in the middle. When you've finally arrived, toss in your last dollops of butter, swirl to immerse, then cover and let it sit tight for a few.

Finally, it's time to sit down and eat! The more it cools, the more it mellows into a pleasingly complex version of old world comfort food. It's been my experience that this meaty, rich risotto can offer enough comfort to carry you through the week.

Risotto al Ragu (Risotto with Meat Sauce)

1/2 cup olive oil
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 small red onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 pound ground beef
6 cups hot best-quality chicken broth, plus more if necessary
2 chicken livers, finely chopped
1/3 cup tomato paste (3.5 ounces)
1/2 cup red wine
pinch of red pepper flakes
salt
pepper
2 cups arborio rice
grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer over medium-high heat; reduce heat, but keep the stock hot.
In a large saucepan, melt half the butter in the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions, celery and carrot and cook until the onion begins to soften, about 3 minutes.
Add the ground beef and cook about 3 minutes longer, until the meat begins to brown.
Add 1 cup chicken broth, the chicken livers, tomato paste, wine, pepper flakes, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the rice and return to a simmer. Cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid has been absorbed.
Stir the remaining hot broth into the risotto 1/2 cup at a time, making sure the previous addition has been absorbed before adding more.
Cook until the rice is al dente, about 25-30 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir in remaining butter; cover and let sit for a few minutes.
Serve warm with grated Parmesan sprinkled on top of each serving.
Serves 6
adapted from the Maccioni Family Cookbook, by Egi Maccioni with Peter Kaminsky

Bringin' BobbyBack

2007-01-16T11:48:00.000-08:00

Dave and I hurried through the double doors into the welcoming warmth of Bobbywood, finally out of the chilly wind winding down Norfolk's Monticello Avenue. The host checked our reservation, then asked us to follow him.

We went just around the corner to a two-top on the end of a long banquette, one of two in the main dining room. A swooping fabric oval above diffused soft, romantic light across the room, which led back to an open kitchen. Another dining area buttressed up to the main room, while the other side embraces the long, sleek bar, featuring a striking glass-enclosed wine room.

The impressive surroundings proved a fine backdrop for the elegantly insouciant menu. After much indecision, I placed an order for a couple of the Spoons!, hoping to buy a bit more time for food negotiations with Dave. It was a tough choice between so many tasty sounding options, especially as Bobby notes that he has, at every opportunity, worked to incorporate local meats, produce and purveyors. Finally, we were ready by the time she brought the cute little appetizers to our table.

Spoons! are tiny tastes served in a large tasting spoon: the eleven choices range in price from $2-$4. Dave got the Beef Bobbaque ($4), which came as a very respectable pile of succulent, smoky, satisfying slivers. Partnered with a slice of the complimentary house-made bread, it was the perfect mini 'cue sandwich.

My spoon was filled with baby mac and cheese with rock shrimp ($4). Tiny, comma-shaped shrimp were perfectly cooked and swimming in a cheesy, rich sauce. Both portions were more than enough to stimulate the appetite.

Properly roused, we split the Sonoma goat cheese starter ($8). A crispy fried portion of the soft cheese sat on top of artichoke salad, doused with basil oil and tapanade, all propped on a piece of garlic toast. This was a most enjoyable mix of salty flavors and crispy, crunchy textures.
After such a hearty start, we wandered into greener pastures. My Equinox salad ($8) was a seasonally appropriate mixture of apples, pears, dried cranberries and spicy pecans. All were interspersed with fresh field greens, dressed with a lively apple cider vinaigrette and presented wrapped in a generous slice of Serrano ham. Once again, a powerhouse combination of engaging and invigorating flavors. Dave went with the never-out-of-style classic Chop Chop salad ($9). A timbale of layered tomatoes, cucumbers, feta and tapanade are bathed in a deliciously garlicky vinaigrette and topped with a spicy pepperoncino. More greens hold up the far side of the plate so you can mix as you go along. Wonderful, addictive stuff.

We shouldered on in the face of our main courses. I had the sweet potato gnocchi ($23), which came in a large bowl filled high with mushrooms, zucchini and brussels sprouts, all in an opaque broth. The soft, pillowy gnocchi released their delicately spiced fillings nicely, but somehow, the rest of the dish seemed at war. Toothsome brussels sprouts refused to submit to anything less than firm pressure, while the rich brown broth dominated and obscured any other flavors. When the waitress noticed I hadn't finished my dish, she asked what the problem was ("just not to my taste, I guess"). Without another word, it and the charge were removed.

Dave fared much better with that other classic, a bowl of the World Famous Oyster Stew ($9). It was unabashedly rich and thick with very fat specimens of oysterdom bobbing to and fro, along with chunks of potato, corn and bits of smoky bacon. This is the sort of thing that was created to chase away remnants of wintry blues, and does so in great style.
We were ready to throw in the towel, until the waitress waived a dessert menu under our noses. Vanilla bean tapioca pudding with cilantro ginger syrup ($7) proved to be a fine diversion indeed. The thick tapioca beads combined creamy comfort and a subtly-spiced kick into an utter delight. Served with a small scoop of sweet-tart raspberry sorbet, it was the perfect dish over which to bid au revoir to Bobbywood's new home in Norfolk.

Captains Table

2007-01-16T11:46:00.000-08:00

NOTE: The Captains Table has since closed.

Overlooking the water off of Deep Creek Road, The Captain's Table looks to be the quintessential locals' choice restaurant-- slightly hidden, and very homey, with a welcoming front deck. It was fairly busy as a smiling hostess promptly took us to our table, weaving between families, groups of friends and young couples alike out for a bite.

The menu features fresh, seafood, along with the usual array of steaks, sandwiches and other family-friendly fare. After a quick perusal, I opted for the seafood platter ($17.95), while Dave honed in on the fresh flounder ($14.95). Both came with soup or salad, potato, a vegetable and rolls/scones. After the waitress had returned with our drinks, we settled back to watch the cute antics of a very well-behaved boy at the next table. I was sipping on a draft hefeweizen ($3.50), which tasted a little flat. Dave had a glass of the BV Chardonnay ($5.50), a simple chard that was suited more for consuming alongside the food.
He had his chance as our salads-- mine with oil & vinegar, his with blue cheese-- came to the table.
I couldn't help but to gasp and stare slightly googly-eyed at our plates. On each was a quarter wedge of a head of iceberg lettuce. Dave's was drowned beneath an explosion of creamy blue cheese dressing, while mine sat completely plain, browning a bit at the center and edges. Sorry, but a wedge of lettuce does not a salad make!

While I was still pondering my greens, the waitress came by and set down a second plate of scones and rolls. "I think that other batch was kinda old," she said, motioning to the plate that had been brought to the table with our menus. She was right, as I'd had only one sandy nibble from those scones. The fresher batch had a very nice flavor and texture, and both quickly vanished.
The waitress cleared our untouched salads to make way for the entrees. Dave's had two goodly-sized pieces of flounder, nicely cooked with a golden crust.
It looked nice, it crunched nice, but the crust had absolutely no flavor to it whatsoever. A dash of salt and a squirt of lemon helped greatly. The accompanying fries were well-cooked as well.
My platter included flounder, shrimp, scallops and a crab cake, all fried, thank you very much.
My flounder was about on par with Dave's. Both the scallops and the shrimp had been coated in a thick, spongy batter that completely stifled its contents. The scallops, once removed from the crust, proved to be slightly withered and over-cooked. The shrimp were very large and rather greasy-- not even cocktail sauce could alleviate that oily taste. Thankfully, the crab cake was quite lovely, filled with fresh crab and sauteed perfectly.

I chose my potato in the form of twice-baked. Aside from coming out pretty close to room temperature, it was unremarkable. What was interesting were our side dishes of broccoli, both wilting into mush and tasting strongly of fish.

We ordered dessert to go. I'd requested an apple brown betty, but received a portion of the bread and butter pudding ($2.95). Reheated later, it didn't have the power to draw me back in for another bite. The pecan pie ($4.50) fared a bit better, with a nicely sweet filling and plenty of pecans along the top-- the slightly stale-tasting crust was my only complaint there.
Throughout the meal, I observed many interactions between the staff and customers that displayed kindness and familiarity: Captain's Table is obviously a neighborhood favorite. With a little more focus on the cookery-- and perhaps a complete re-interpretation of their salad-- this could be a comfortably cozy retreat with a retro-family friendly vibe.

Captains Table Restaurant
663 Deep Creek Road, Newport News
Phone: 930-2413
Web site: www.captainstablerestaurant.org
Specialties: seafood
Price range: appetizers: $4.95-$11.95; soups & salads: $2.95-$8.95; entrees: $10.95-$18.95; dessert: $1.95-$4.50
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: 5 pm.-9 p.m.; closed Mondays; closed Sundays for the winter
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: only on the outside patio
Vegetarian: no
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards, checks
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: nightly specials, large and private parties welcome
Star rating: food 2 1/2, atmosphere 3, service 3
(out of five stars)

Patriotic Pies

2007-01-11T13:27:00.000-08:00

Show Your Colors With a Slice of the Right Stuff

American flag flying proudly on the front porch? Check. Snazzy flag pin on the lapel? Check. A little something to bring over to the neighborhood Flag Day party? Er...not so much. No worries, mate, the solution is as American as pie, and we're not talking apples. Pie is the penultimate comfort food, easy to make, and open to a plethora of interpretations. Today, it's all about the red, white and blue.

Red: fresh strawberry pie. It's no co-incidence that the best berries of the year intersect with this celebration. The crust is simple as it gets, crushed cookies mixed with butter and almonds, baked 'till just toasty and brown. Meanwhile, a simple syrup thickened with cornstarch boils away on the stove for a few minutes, before coating the sliced strawberries. Slip a little orange liqueur in there for the adult palate, or leave as is- you won't go wrong either way.
White: French coconut pie. While the name may hail from another continent, the taste is pure, old-fashioned indulgence. A rich, custard-like center suspends fresh coconut. Almond and coconut extracts hit just the right riff, while toasted coconut ensures even the pickiest palates will be asking for one more taste. The crust is classic pastry, and if, like me, you still haven't mastered that particular art, don't be afraid to turn to Pillsbury's ready-made (in the refrigerated section).
Blue: fresh blueberry pie. We may get lucky enough this warm year to enjoy an early crop, so make the most of it with an open-faced pie. The bottom crust is blind-baked to become the perfect vessel for fresh, juicy berries. Some are cooked down on the stove with sugar, lemon juice, and a touch of cornstarch. Properly thickened, then poured over the remaining berries to morph into a delectably sweet blueberry treat. Gild the lily with a little mascarpone-whipped cream.

And there you have it- three patriotic pies guaranteed to fly proudly. Right off the dessert table, that is.

Fresh Strawberry Pie
Crust:
1 1/2 cups crushed shortbread cookies (I use Demitasse teabiscuits)
1/4 cups finely chopped almonds
1/3 cup butter, melted
Mix together (the food processor makes this astoundingly easy), and press into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie pan. Bake at 350-degrees for 8 minutes, or until just browned. Cool completely.
Filling:
strawberries, about 2 1/2 pounds, sliced
3/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/3 cup water
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 tablespoon spiced rum (optional)
Grand Marnier, a good splash (optional)

Mash strawberries to equal one cup. Combine sugar, cornstarch, water and mashed strawberries in a heavy-bottomed pot. Cook over medium heat, constantly stirring until boiling and thickened. At this point, boil for one minute. Remove from heat, and add the salt, almond extract, and optional rum. Cool for ten minutes.
Fill cooled crust with remaining strawberries, and pour the cooked mixture over them. Refrigerate at least three hours, or until set.
Optionally, as strawberry mixture is boiling, macerate sliced strawberries with a splash of Grand Marnier before placing into pie.
Serve with mascarpone-whipped cream.

From Fine Cooking Cook's Talk Forum, 'Noodle'.

French Coconut Pie
3 extra-large eggs
1 cup white sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted (if using salted butter, omit the salt above)
1 tablespoon white vinegar
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out, pod discarded OR place pod in a bottle of vodka, and 6 months later you have vanilla extract: use 1 tablespoon
1 teaspoon coconut extract (if using coconut milk, omit extract)
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 tablespoon bread or all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon white corn meal
1 cup milk or 3/4 cup coconut milk
1 cup shredded fresh coconut
1/3 cup toasted coconut (optional)

Pre-heat oven to 325-degrees. Use a stand mixer, or a rubber spatula if doing by hand; do not use a wire whisk. Be careful not to overmix.
Beat eggs for about a minute to get them blended, light in color, and creamy.
Add sugar/salt, and beat until they just pull together.
Take cooled melted butter, and whisk in the flour/corn meal until smooth and without lumps. This is the only step that uses a whisk.
Add milk, and blend well. Lastly, stir in the coconut, pour in prepared pie pan, and bake at 325-degrees for 24-45 minutes, depending upon the oven's calibration. Pie is done when the center springs to touch. Check pie at 25 minutes, then every 5 minutes after that. Don't over-cook, or the coconut will rise to the top, and get too brown.
Remove and let carry-over heat finish cooking the pie for the next 20 minutes.
If desired, sprinkle with toasted coconut.
Remember- don't refrigerate a custard pie after baking. It causes the pie to shrink and become dense. It will sit one hour at room temperature, and you can serve it warm, or chill the pie once set.
Adapted from Lacy Smith's 'Sugar Daddy's Treat's'.

Fresh Blueberry Pie
Pie crust for a 9-inch pie
1/2 large egg white, lightly beaten
1 1/4pounds blueberries, rinsed and drained
1/2 liquid cup, plus 2 tablespoons, divided, of water
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Roll out dough and transfer to pie pan, folding the excess under, and crimping the border. Cover loosely, and refrigerate for a minimum of one hour, and a maximum of twenty-four.
Preheat the oven to 425-degrees for at least 20 minutes before baking.
Line the pastry with parchment, and fill with dried beans. Bake for 20 minutes. Carefully lift out the beans with the parchment, then prick the bottom and sides of the crust with a fork. Bake 5-10 minutes longer, until the crust is a pale golden. Check after 3 minutes, and prick any bubbles that have formed.
Cool the crust on a rack for 3 minutes, so that it is no longer piping hot, then brush the bottom and sides with the egg white.
Measure out 1 cup of the blueberries, choosing the softest ones. Place in a medium saucepan together with 1/2 cup of the water. Cover and bring to a boil.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and the remaining 2 tablespoons of water; set aside.
When the water and blueberries have come to a boil, lower the heat and simmer, stirring constantly, for 3-4 minutes, or until the blueberries start to burst and the juices begin to thicken. Stirring constantly, add the cornstarch mixture, the sugar, lemon juice, and salt. Simmer for a minute, or until the mixture becomes translucent. Immediately remove from heat, and quickie fold in the remaining 3 cups of blueberries.
Spoon the mixture into the baked pie shell and allow to sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours before serving. When set, the berries will remain very juicy, but will not flow out of the crust.
Store at room temperature up to 2 days.
Note: The low amount of sugar in this pie maintains the tart freshness of the berries. Taste the berries before you begin. If they are very tart, increase the sugar by a few tablespoons.
Adapted from Rose Levy Beranbaum's 'The Pie & Pastry Bible'.

Sugar Dough
4 ounces unsalted butter
2 ounces white sugar
1 1/2 cups pastry or all-purpose flour
'I know I said you can opt out and buy pre-made dough, but nothing really beats the taste of homemade. This dough is great for every kind of pie. It can be pre-baked, or not, and works best if you have a mixer. If not, work diligently on the creaming of the sugar and butter (which needs to be soft). It will need to be smooth and lump free, or else it will be granular in texture.'
Cream butter with sugar. Add all the flour at once, and if using a mixer, set speed on lowest, and let it pull together into a dough. Once it does, stop the machine immediately so you don't over-mix. Chill, or use right away.
If you don't have a mixer, cream well by hand with a rubber spatula, then add flour. Use your hands to incorporate the flour, like you would when making short bread or biscuits.
Recipe courtesy S. Meers.

Emerald Thai Cuisine

2007-01-10T06:40:00.000-08:00

Walking into Williamsburg’s Emerald Thai Cuisine was an experience in deja vu. The walls were a continuity of kaffir lime-green, broken up by immaculately maintained aquariums. A bar stretched across the far right, dangling with artsy lights, while a facade continued the smooth green theme. Meanwhile, a hostess whisked out menus, and motioned us to follow her to our table. When I sat down and saw the uniquely colored iridescent-spangled tabletop, I realized that I’d seen echoes of this restaurant in Yorktown’s Pattaya, albeit in varying shades of blue.

Husband Dave and I perused menus, faltering over the multitude of choices, which even included sushi. Not feeling particularly fishy, we finally settled upon our orders of food and wine. Our pleasant server wasn’t readily able to answer several questions, but was quick to call over another girl to help us out.

Salads came unexpectedly— we hadn’t realized these came with the entrees. Crisp iceberg was mixed with cucumber, tomato and slivers of cabbage and carrots. The peanut dressing was a little sweet and subtly spicy, if rather thickly applied.

Appetizers arrived in quick succession. The steamed dumplings ($5.95) were four fat little wonton skins. Each was filled with a deliciously savory melange of shrimp and pork, punctuated perfectly by the sweet dipping sauce.

The Beef One Son ($6.50) arrived in a dark, crispy pile. “Beef jerky!” my husband rejoiced, and dug into the accompanying chili sauce. Just as quickly, he was reaching for his water. The beef definitely had some jerky-like characteristics, but a wonderfully addictive flavor, while the sauce was pure in-your-face hot. Both plates were adorned with artfully arranged stacks of shaved red cabbage and carrot.

As his main course, Dave went with the drunken noodles ($9.95). Broad rice noodles in a thickly sticky congealed mass formed the base for minced chicken. Advertised as spicy, the poultry was surprisingly mild, with faint notes of anise and stronger crescendos of Thai basil.

When asked why this was called drunken noodle, our flustered server called over somebody who could explain. She said that she thought it had something to do with people who were drunk whipping up a midnight meal that was simple, tasty and could soak up some alcohol. And no, she laughed, there was no alcohol used in the making of this dish!

I had the spicy eggplant ($9.95), chunks of eggplant stir-fried with black bean sauce, garlic and chili. I asked for it to be “very spicy,” and got a pleasant back-burn with a succession of bites. More fresh Thai basil leaves were strewn throughout the mixture, contributing a pleasant herbal note.

There are two particular Thai dishes that I always have to try, so I got these to go. There was some trouble in getting this across to the server — we finally just asked for a menu and pointed them out to her, and motioned to the door. The tom yum soup ($4) is a classic and comforting soup. Broad slices of chicken, fat mushrooms and oddly enough, tomatoes, floated in a sour lemongrass broth. Advertised as one-pepper-spicy, it tasted rather mild, but with well-rounded flavors.

The larb gai ($6.25) is one of my all-time favorite Thai dishes. Minced poached chicken is bathed in a mixture of lively herbs and spices, and served as a cold salad with a spicy lime dressing. I’d asked for this dish to be hotter, but again, it seemed something was lost in the translation. While I didn’t taste any comforting zing of spice, it was still a nice, if tame, version.

“Hot. Sour. Salty. Sweet.” Emerald did a nice job of highlighting these classic flavors in its dishes. Still, it was troublesome to have to keep calling over another server, busy with her own tables, every time we had a question. Language barrier aside, this was a satisfying and respectable take on Thai cookery.

Emerald Thai Cuisine
264G Mclaws Circle
Phone: 645-2511 fax: 645-2512
Specialties: Thai
Price range: appetizers: $4.95-$6.50; soups & salads: $4-$7.95; entrees: $7.95-$11.95 (lunch) $9.95-$15.95 (dinner); dessert: $4-$4.95
Hours: Monday-Thursday: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. (lunch), 5-9:30 p.m. (dinner); Friday: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. (lunch), 5-10 p.m. (dinner); Saturday: 5-10:30 p.m.; Sunday: 5-10 p.m.
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards, checks
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: casual, romantic
Additional Information: free delivery (over $15)
Star rating: food 3 1/2, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 3
(out of five stars)

Luigi's Italian Cuisine

2006-12-27T13:22:00.000-08:00

denbigh-
Recently returned from Italy, I've been rather leery of visiting any of the local Italian-American eateries. However, one restaurant in particular kept coming up in conversation from a variety of folks: Luigi's in Denbigh. It had been over three years since the last review, and my curiosity was piqued.
Dave and I strolled in to the open, domed dining room. An enormous live Christmas tree sparkled in the center, and all around tables buzzed with the chatter of families and couples. The hostess took us to a somewhat quieter corner table and left us to peruse the menu.

A smiling black-clad waitress came to the table for our drink orders. Dave chose a bottle of the Sterling Reserve Pinot Noir ($23.99). While pouring the wine, she reviewed the night's specials-- I went with the scallops and shrimp. Dave, after much consideration, elected for a veal-eggplant dish. The entrees come with your choice of pastas, and the waitress gave us her recommendation for the most suitable pairings.

She whisked the menus away, made the rounds at a few other tables, then returned with a piping hot basket of garlic knots and rolls. Dave pulled a roll, while I dived on past into the bottom of the basket. The little doughy balls were drenched with garlic, butter, more garlic and more butter. Each one was a short, sweet bite of pure buttery bliss. When the waitress cruised back by to refill our glasses, she warned against over-indulgence: "Too many people eat these, then can't eat their meals! Be careful." We heeded her advice with some degree of difficulty.

Both entrees came with house salads. I opted for a simple oil-and-vinegar dressing, while Dave went with a chunky blue cheese. They were fresh enough, although I once again encountered the dreaded refrigerated-tomato syndrome.

Our meals arrived just as we finished up with the greens.

Dave's vitello con melanzane ($17.99) was a massive plate topped high with breaded cutlets of veal and eggplant. Baked in a mild marinara, topped with mozzarella and served with a helping of spaghetti, this wasn't for the meek of appetite. The veal was perfectly tender, as was the eggplant. Both pieces were a little heavily breaded, so when stacked and baked, the crumb crust became a little too dominant.

My shrimp and scallops arrabiata-style ($21.99) came with the suggested linguini. A plentiful, pleasantly spicy tomato sauce coated fat shrimp and halved scallops, making for a lively, filling dish.

Our waitress returned to pack up the remnants, and offered dessert or coffee. "Can you make a REAL macchiato?" I asked hopefully. She'd been to Italy, too, and understood the distinction.
She returned in about ten minutes with our boxes and two steaming cups. Served in small portions, two shots of a perfectly pulled espresso were stained with a dash of hot cream. Dave and I sipped, paused, laughed, then sipped again. It tasted just like Italy.
Of course, I can't resist the thought of pizza, so ordered a Neopolitan-style ($8.50) to go.
This thin crust pizza was topped with my choice of onions, mushrooms and anchovies. While the amount of mozzarella was rather heavier than I anticipated, the flavor was well-balanced. Salty rich anchovy melded in gently with the rest of the pie. This ain't no Domino's, and trust me- that's a good thing.

I'm new to the world of Luigi's, but certainly see why they've won so many fans. The staff was very personable and friendly-- I saw chef making the rounds to each table, wait-staff hugging regulars and warmly greeting newbies. The food is solid and appealing, and most interestingly, not bound by the menu: "if there is something you would like, and don't see it on the menu, please ask and we will try our best to make it for you!" It sounds like somebody is having fun back in the kitchen!

Luigi's Italian Cuisine
15400 Warwick Boulevard, Denbigh
Phone: 887-0005
Specialties: Italian
Price range: appetizers: $5.50-$6.99; soups & salads: $3.50-$6.99; pizza: $7.50-$12.00; entrees: $7.99-$21.99; dessert: $1.50-$5
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday: 11a.m.-10p.m.; Friday: 11 a.m.-midnight; Saturday: 4 p.m- midnight; Sunday: 4-10 p.m.
Alcohol: beer, wine, mixed drinks
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational to noisy
Atmosphere: casual, family-friendly
Additional Information: open for lunch, lunch buffet, daily specials, carryout, catering
Star rating: food 4, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 4
(out of five stars)

from The Daily Press

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Baked Ziti

2006-12-27T13:21:00.000-08:00

It has been a season of rich, luscious celebratory foods-- timpanos, roasted suckling pig and peposo (a peppery Italian beef stew) have all made their way through the kitchen and onto my table in the past few weeks. It's been fun, but as in all things excessive, it's time to tamp it down a bit. Who has a schedule that allows the luxury of an entire day devoted to cooking?

That said, I still want something reminiscent of those full-on flavors, just a little lighter on the work-load. With that in mind, there's one dish that fulfills my requirements: a classic baked ziti.

This large casserole is essentially short tube pasta that's been mixed with sauce and cheese, then briefly baked. Variations abound, but I fell sway several years ago to a particular recipe from Fine Cooking magazine. After some tinkering, my husband and I feel that our version is pretty close to ziti perfection.

While he cooks the sausage with onions and garlic, I'm shredding copious amounts of pecorino cheese. I dice some tomatoes and hand them over: he plunks them down in the concentrated essence of red wine. There's just enough time left to slice the mozzarella and drain the pasta. All are gently mixed together, poured into a casserole, layered with more cheese, then placed into a fairly hot oven.

In about 15 minutes, you get the first real scent of sauce and cheese. A few minutes later, a distinctively garlicky, meaty aroma begins to fill the air. Five more minutes will see you peeking into the oven, where the casserole is lively and bubbling away. Let it go a bit longer, allowing some of the cheese-coated pasta to darken and turn crusty and crisp. While the casserole cools, those crunchy little nibs make for a very satisfactory chef's reward.

Notes: This makes for a pretty substantial meal, so I usually cook half right away, then wrap and freeze the rest for another night. Also, don't limit yourself to just the ingredients here. I've found that any manner of sauteed veggies work very well-- try mushrooms, zucchini or even eggplant. Additionally, you'll notice that the pasta pictured is actually penne: the bias cut affords more surface area to turn delightfully crunchy.

Baked Ziti with Tomato, Mozzarella & Sausage

olive oil
1 large onion, cut into small dice
4-5 cloves minced garlic
1 pound hot Italian sausage, casing removed, and crumbled
salt
freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup dry red wine
34-ounce can whole plum tomatoes, with their juice
2 large tomatoes, roughly chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano, or about 2 teaspoons dried
1/2-1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 cup grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese
pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1/3 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
1 pound ziti (I use penne)
1 pound mozzarella, preferably fresh, cut into small cubes

Heat oven to 425-degrees, and bring a large pot of water to boil.
In a very large skillet, heat about 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and crumbled sausage, and saute until the sausage begins to brown. Season with salt and pepper.
If the sausage gives off a lot of fat, pour most off, but be sure to keep a bit for the flavour.
Add the red wine and let it boil until mostly gone. Add tomatoes, with juices, and cook, uncovered, at a lively simmer until sauce thickens slightly. Add oregano and red pepper as this cooks down.
In a large mixing bowl, mix together ricotta, about half or so the grated pecorino, the nutmeg and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain well and toss it with the ricotta mixture until well-coated. Add the sausage and sauce, and mix again. Add the mozzarella and toss gently.
Pour everything into the baking dish, and sprinkle the remaining pecorino on top.
Bake uncovered until golden and bubbling- I like to let some bits become magnificently darkened and crunchy. This will take maybe 20-30 minutes.
Let sit for at least 5 minutes before serving.
Serves 4-6.
recipe adapted from Fine Cooking magazine.

from The Daily Press

Ribollita

2006-12-27T13:20:00.000-08:00

My recent trip to Italy has left me craving all things Italian, from black squid ink pasta, to wild boar ragu, to one euro glasses of outrageously good wine. While I don't have easy access to these things, I'm still able to comfort my palate with fresh pasta, Bolognese sauces and the like. A recent cold snap saw me settling my sight upon a hearty soup that I experienced in Florence: ribollita.

"Ree-bow-lee-tah" is peasant food at its best. Born out of hard times, this soup could last for days, getting better all the while: the name literally means "re-boiled". Bits and scraps of leftovers were added to the cooking pot, where the flavors gently merged and ripened over the days. It usually begins life as a plain vegetable soup, or minestrone. The leftovers would be poured over toasted bread at the next meal. Day three saw the actual re-boiling of the soup and any leftover bread. Suddenly, there was a fantastically thick, porridge-like soup that had finally achieved maximum flavor! The recipes vary from person-to-person, but common ingredients include cannellini beans, cabbage or kale and assorted vegetables.

While I'd love to spend several days coddling and cooking a soup, most of my waking hours are spent away from home. When a friend invited my husband and I over for an Italian dinner featuring a classical ribollita, I knew it was time to try out a quick version-- would it compare to the original?

The recipe comes from Giada de Laurentiis' Everyday Italian series. While keeping many ingredients similar to the original, there are little touches such as pancetta, herbs and a Parmesan rind* to pump up the taste. It was extremely easy to make, and just as it finished a half-hour simmer, we packed it up and headed over to our friends.

Side by side, these two little bowls couldn't have looked more different. The original version looked just like what I'd tasted overseas, color-flecked, and thick like porridge. It tasted good, but fell a little flat in comparison to memory, even with the traditional drizzle of olive oil on top.
Giada's take didn't call for any mashing or pureeing, so it was thick with whole vegetables, beans and greens. Yet as different as it looked, the flavor was rich and intense, all the more joyous for the way it melded into a slice of crusty toasted bread. It would seem that all those little shortcuts really added up to a surprisingly tasty soup. Since it's not actually re-boiled, I hesitate to call it a ribollita, but it is indeed a fine homage to hearty Tuscan peasant food.

Ribollita

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus some for drizzling on bread
1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
4 ounces pancetta, chopped
2 garlic cloves, 1 minced and 1 whole
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 (15 ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 lb frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
1 (15 ounce) can cannellini beans, drained
1 tablespoon herbes de provence (I only used one teaspoon, and found it just right)
3 cups chicken stock (I used a roasted chicken stock)
1 bay leaf
1 piece parmesan cheese, rind 3 inches *
4-6 ciabatta rolls, halved lengthwise (or any old bread)
grated parmesan cheese, for serving

Heat the oil in a heavy large pot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, pancetta, minced garlic, salt, and pepper.
Cook until the onion is golden brown and the pancetta is crisp, about 7 minutes.
Add tomato paste and stir until dissolved.
Add tomatoes and stir, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release all the brown bits.
Add the spinach, beans, herbs, stock, bay leaf, and Parmesan rind.
Bring the soup to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Drizzle the ciabatta halves with olive oil. Toast until golden brown, about 5 minutes.
Remove from the oven and rub the top of the toasts with the whole garlic clove.
Place the toasts in the serving bowls and ladle the soup over the toasts.
Sprinkle with Parmesan and serve immediately.

from Giada de Laurentiis' Everyday Italian, Episode EI0802

Shelley's notes: I used fresh, chopped Swiss chard in place of the frozen spinach. If doing so, please be sure to wash it out thoroughly, as this is notoriously sandy stuff! Of course, almost any green will work: kale and cabbage would do just fine here. When I make this again, I'll remove half the soup and puree it, adding it back in just in time for the boil. Again, please be cautious about the amount of herbes de provence. While she recommends a whole tablespoon, I found a teaspoon to be just enough, without overpowering the other ingredients.

*I was very please to see Giada make use of one of my favorite cooking secrets! When I get to the end of a wedge of Parmesan or Pecorino, I seal up the rind tightly and keep it in the freezer. It adds a wonderful depth to any manner of soups and stews.

from the Daily Press

Battery Park Grill

2006-12-21T06:55:00.001-08:00

smithfield-
I don't get out of town much, so I'm always thankful when a reader points me in the direction of a favorite restaurant. A few months ago, I received word of Battery Park Grill, located in Smithfield's business district. Since my husband, Dave, and I were in town checking out The Bon Vivant Market, we took our dinner plans just across the street.

Walking in beneath the festive holiday lights, we really didn't know what to expect-- "lighter fare" and "fresh seafood" were a few of the words I'd heard bandied about. Dave opened the door to a brightly lit dining room, decorated with suspended window and door frames: each of these peered into a different painted view, to nice effect. A smiling waitress hurried past, saying that we could help ourselves to a table: she'd be with us in a moment.

Settling into the back of the wood-dominant room, Dave had a bottle of wine picked out by the time the waitress returned. She disappeared through a painted saloon-style swinging door, returning almost as quickly.

I was thrilled to see that not only did the waitress have a proper wine key, she knew how to use it, too. Sadly, the wine was corked. After an apology and a few words on the benefits of screw-caps, she suggested another bottle. The Banrock Station Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon ($17) made for a nice, slightly more inexpensive option.

We'd placed our food order, so I took the opportunity to find the bathroom. Passing through that swinging door was an experience in itself! The light level lowered dramatically, and I was in a bustling, smoky bar. On the far side of the room was a very cute little dining area, slightly brighter than the rest of the room. Before I could have a closer look, one of the patrons almost walked into me. "Girl, ya need to smile, now!", he said, peering into my startled face. I smiled, murmuring something about 'just looking for the restroom', and continued on through.

The final area was a spacious billiards room. There were only two playing, so it was quiet, a little darker and a lot less smoky. The restrooms were off a small hall, where a loveseat nestled into a plethora of reading materials. However, there was no wait, and the bathroom was nice and clean.

By the time I got back to my seat, appetizers had arrived. That night's special were scallops'n'bacon (75 cents each/min. four), still piping hot. The scallops were fresh and perfectly cooked, the bacon making a fine foil for the rich meat. Dave had two, and he doesn't even particularly care for scallops!

I ordered a house salad ($2.25 with entree) with oil & vinegar. It was nice and crisp, although the cut tomatoes suffered the all-too common restaurant refrigeration-syndrome (chilling a tomato renders it flavorless). With a little green in my system, I was ready for the next round of seafood.

We both ordered the seafood combo ($15.50), a plate filled with your choice of three seafoods and two sides.

I ordered the scallops-- not quite as good without the bacon, but fresh and tasty nonetheless. I'd almost requested fried shrimp, but the waitress exhorted me to try blackened: "they don't come under a crust of spices, we use a special blackening pan". Indeed, they were different than any other 'blackened' food I've had, but didn't really resonate. A dip into a spicy cocktail sauce helped immensely. I tried the fried catfish, and lo, it was the pinnacle moment of the meal. The fillet was light, fluffy and perfectly surrounded by a golden crust.

Dave had ordered the fried flounder, which was good, but not quite as nice as the catfish. His fried oysters were rather oily, but the fried crab cake was excellent. Lots and lots of sweet crab meat were packed into a substantial cake, then fried until the crust held just enough satisfying crunch.

We sampled a fair amount of fried food, but our sides made us feel somewhat better. Sugar snap peas were bright green and sweet, while the applesauce was slightly tart and pleasingly chunky; the coleslaw was on the lighter side, but not my favorite of the trio. Dave threw caution out the window with his choice of mashed potatoes, and I was glad he did so. These were the perfect skin-on mash, with a nice balance of rich, creamy smoothness and comfort.

After all that food, there was no way that dessert was happening. But after seeing a round of sweets get delivered to the table behind us, I had to order a piece of the bread pudding with rich bourbon sauce ($3.50) to take home. Much to my dismay, it was dropped in the gravel parking lot on the way out, too top-heavy to ride the tottering tower of take-out boxes. Personally, I'm taking this as a sign to pay a return visit and rectify that mistake as soon as possible.

Battery Park Grill
201 Battery Park Road, Smithfield
Phone: 357-1747
Specialties: Seafood, lighter fare
Price range: appetizers, $3-$12.95; soups and salads, $2.50-$10.25; sides, $1.25-$2.25; sandwiches, $6.25-9.50; entrees, $8.50-$17.95; dessert, $2.95-$3.95
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 3-11 p.m.; Friday, 3 p.m.-1 a.m.; Saturday, 3 p.m.- 12 a.m.; Sunday: 12 -10 p.m.
Alcohol: yes
Smoking: there are separate smoking and non-smoking areas
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards, checks if they know you
Noise level: conversational to noisy
Atmosphere: informal, casual, relaxed
Additional Information: nightly specials, happy hour (weeknights) 5-7, “Live Bartender Nightly”
Star rating: food 3 1/2, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 4
(out of five stars)

from The Daily Press

Taco Mexicali

2006-12-21T06:55:00.000-08:00

WILLIAMSBURG-
I first noticed Taco Mexicali as I was finishing the NY Deli review-- it's housed in their old location. I hurried over, grabbed a menu from the bustling dining area, and swore to make a return trip.

The focus of the menu is short and sweet, consisting mostly of wrapped Mexican-style goods. The line-up is familiar, and allows your choice of the following "Mexicali" meats: al pastor (red chili pork), barbacoa (beef barbecue), carne asade (grilled steak), carnitas (barbecue pork), chile Colorado (pork tips in red sauce), chile verde (pork tips in green sauce), chorizo (Mexican sausage) and pollo asado (grilled chicken).

The restaurant is laid out 'pick-up' style. Place your order at the register and grab your drinks. You can opt to watch your meal being prepared behind the sneeze-guard, or wait for it to be delivered to your table.

After ordering, we stuck around long enough to watch my husband Dave's margarita($5.95) being prepared. The cook, who had been slapping down thick tortillas onto the grill, was summoned to the counter by the cashier. There was much impassioned murmuring and gesturing, but the margarita was soon shaken into a plastic cup. I was handed my Modelo beer ($2.00), so we wandered to our seats in the back of the colorful tiled dining area.

After a few minutes of watching Hispanic television (on the ceiling-mounted flat screen television) the cashier came around the corner with our plates.

Dave had ordered four types of tacos. Tacos carne asado ($2.25) were beefy grilled strips of steak that greatly benefited from the addition of some vibrantly green sauce and spicy salsa from the self-serve condiment bar. Tacos chorizo ($2.25) were spicy, pungent, greasy and utterly gorgeous: these were easily the best. The original taco Mexicali taco ($1.40) came in soft or hard shell versions, both using the original ground beef. The soft shell was good, but bested by the fresh corn flavor of the hard shell.

I'd had thoughts of burritos or gorditas, but was tempted astray at seeing tortas-- Mexican sandwiches. My choice of the torta cubana ($4.95) was not at all what I expected!
The menu said that this pork loin sausage was served on 'freshly baked Mexican bread"; it came with lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado and jalapeno (I asked them to hold the mayo). The latter half of the explanation was correct, while the former seemed to have been lost somewhere in translation. The meat was a fire-grilled slice of pork that tasted and looked similar to a square-shaped bologna. It came along with what looked and tasted like a good hot dog, similarly cooked. Not bad at all, but certainly not what I had anticipated.

All in all, the food was flavorful, fresh, and amazingly fast. The employees, from cook to cashier, were very friendly, and seemed to take pride in what they were serving. It would seem that quality IS a matter of choice.

from The Daily Press

Taco Mexicali
6572 Richmond Road, Williamsburg
Phone: 220-3116 Fax: 220-3117
Specialties: Mexican
Price range: From $1.40 for a taco to $6.95 for fajitas to $8.50 for arrachera
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. seven days a week
Alcohol: yes
Smoking: no
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational to noisy
Atmosphere: relaxed
Star rating: food 3 1/2, atmosphere 3, service 3 1/2
(out of five stars)

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