Ahm in amore, at least when in Portsmouth

Portsmouth has seen a steady sprinkling of new restaurants in and around the newly renovated High Street area. Amoré Casual Italian has recently joined the ranks.

Styled as an unpretentious, family-friendly neighborhood fixture, it plays the part with classic red-and-white checked tablecloths, cozy brick walls and welcoming staff. As it wasn’t preposterously hot outside, my husband and I elected to sit out on the patio, where a cooling breeze rustled enticingly through the vestibule.

The wait staff seemed slightly short-changed that night, but an apologetic waitress was soon tableside. Our perusal of the modest wine list yielded the Acinum Chianti ($30), a tight little package that was crafted for heady tomato sauce, Italian ham and pepperoni-rich pies. We placed our orders, then kicked back to watch the engaging panoply of folk out for their evening stroll.

The salads soon arrived, verdant and fresh. I had the simple dinner salad ($3.99), a modest and crisp assortment of iceberg, tomatoes, cucumbers and croutons. The basic house dressing veered a tad to the sweet side, but was still quite nice.

Dave’s Italian salad ($7.99) was rife with more crisp lettuce, tomatoes, croutons, red onion, rolled ham and cheese, and fat slices of sharp green pepper. The house dressing, once again, was a little sweet and in just the right amount.

We watched with barely concealed awe as our neighbor’s dishes came out: a fat chunk of lasagna issuing forth heady scents, and a portion of ziti that did much the same. Shortly after that, our entrees came out piping hot, and looking just as good.

Dave’s spaghetti and meatballs ($8.99) came in a massive, contractor-sized portion. The pasta was generously doused in a slightly sweet marinara, dappled with hefty, hand-formed meatballs. It was an excellent homespun version.

I had pizza, always a good benchmark for any such restaurant. My small pesto chicken pie ($6.99) didn’t disappoint. The crust was nicely chewy, supporting layers of pungent pesto, cheese and chunks of pre-cooked chicken. A sprinkling of crushed red pepper is not only encouraged, but well received.

Although dessert ran the gamut from cheesecake to tiramisu, to ice cream, cake and cannolis, we were more than comfortably full from our hearty entrees. We took the check, and thanked our waitress once again for the low-key, relaxing experience.

Amoré is all about casual comfort food, served in an easygoing, friendly environment. Now that is — Amoré!

Amoré Casual Italian
606 High Street, Portsmouth
Phone: 337-8382
Specialties: casual Italian
Price range: soups and salads: $4.49-$7.99; sandwiches/subs: $3.49-$6.49; entrees: $6.49-14.99; pizzas: 5.99-$13.99
Hours: 11 a.m.- 10 p.m., Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight, Friday-Saturday; 10 a.m.- 3 p.m., Sunday brunch
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: on the outdoor patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: kids’ menu
Star rating: food 3, atmosphere 3, service 3
(out of five stars)

Peanut Butter Ice Cream

Peanut Butter Ice Cream

3/4 cup (180g) smooth peanut butter
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (180g) sugar
2 2/3 cups (660ml) half and half
pinch of salt
1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract

Puree the peanut butter, sugar, half and half, salt and vanilla in a blender or food processor until smooth.
Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Makes about 1 quart.
from David Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop

original post here

Molten Chocolate Babycakes

Molten Chocolate Babycakes

scant 1/4 cup soft unsalted butter, plus more for greasing
12 ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate
1/2 cup sugar
4 large eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt
1.5 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/3 cup AP flour
equipment: 6 individual 6-ounce custard cups, buttered and baking parchment

Unless you are making these up in advance, preheat the oven to 400 degreesF, putting in a baking sheet at the same time. Lay 3 of the custard cups on a sheet of doubled baking parchment. Draw round the base, remove and cut out the discs as marked. Press them all into the base of the cups.

Melt the chocolate and allow to cool slightly. Cream together the butter and sugar, and gradually beat in the eggs and salt, then the vanilla. Now add the flour, and when all is smoothly combined, scrape in the cooled chocolate, blending into a smooth batter.

Divide the batter between the 6 custard cups, quickly whip the baking sheet out of the oven, arrange the little cups on it and replace in the oven. Cook for 10-12 minutes (extra 2 minutes needed if the puddings are refrigerator cold when you begin), and as soon as you take them out of the oven, tip out these luscious babycakes onto small plates or shallow bowls. Serve with whipped cream, the same unwhipped in a pitcher, creme fraiche, custard or ice cream.

Serves 6.
from Nigella Lawson's How to be a Domestic Goddess

original posting here

Popcorn chickpeas

Popcorn Chickpeas

1 15-ounce can chickpeas
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped rosemary
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper

Drain and rinse the chickpeas in a strainer. Turn them out onto paper towels or clean dish towel and pat them dry.
Pour the olive oil into a large skillet over medium-high heat and toss in the chickpeas. Cook 5-7 minutes, shaking the pan often. They won't really brown, but they'll turn several shades darker, shrink a bit and form a light crust.
Pour the chickpeas back into the strainer to drain off excess oil, then return to pan.
Lower the heat to medium and add the rosemary and garlic. Stir for another minute or two until the garlic begins to brown. Sprinkle with salt and a few grindings of pepper. Toss again and pour into a serving bowl.
serve warm.

from "Herb Garden (beginnings)

original posting here

Agoraphobia

Agora (which means "meeting place" in Greek) Bar and Bistro is tucked away in a casual storefront, next to the movie theater in Suffolk's growing Harbour View neighborhood. My date and I had secured a reservation mid-week, and arrived a few minutes shy of 6:30 p.m. The door led us into the bar, where a couple sat in animated conversation with the bartender. A laughing waitress cheerfully paused in her conversation, welcomed us, and invited us in. The empty dining room ran parallel to the narrow bar, and she offered up any table while going to get the wine list.


The room had that hip-yet-funky vibe, with warm walls bringing color to the shimmery grey tiles beneath. Decorative tribal-style masks grinned next to mischievous French posters, while strategically placed mirrors gave a sense of space. I picked up my menu, bound in an old-fashioned photo album, and began perusing. Offerings held a lot of surf, a little turf and a smattering of pasta dishes, not to mention a very lengthy martini list.

After a slight mis-hap with our requested bottle, the waitress returned with our next choice, the Tittarelli Tempranillo Reserva 2004 ($31). Red, rich and filled with smooth tannins, it was a busty little quaff that held a nice finish. No specials were being offered that evening, so Dave took care of placing our orders, while I sought out the bathroom.

The bathroom was wide, very clean and busy with more eclectically-stylized posters. More eye-catching was the miniature DVD player, running through classic black & white flicks.
Returning to my seat, I noticed the sun glinting off the wrought-iron style chairs-- or rather, lighting up the blanket of dust running across. My eyes wandered to the black tablecloths, many of which were stained and ripped-- even our table had several of these battle scars.



We soon had an appetizer to keep cozy with. Five coconut encrusted-shrimp ($10) came on an oversized white plate, nestled against field greens and festooned with a vivid purple orchid. Less identifiable was the container of thick pink sauce, which our waitress identified as the strawberry coulis. I spooned out a taste, finding it sweet and rather yogurty. The butterflied shrimp were rather soft and bland, even beneath the very golden crust, so I tried a dip in the coulis. It's much as you imagine eating coconut-flecked popcorn-style shrimp dipped into strawberry yogurt would taste like.


At this point, it was becoming slightly difficult for Dave and I to hear each other. Even though the dining room was still empty, the bar patrons and staff were engaged in high-volume conversations and raucous laughter, which steadily drowned out the cozy, intimate lounge music.

When our waitress returned bearing gorgeous plates, I felt a thrill of excitement. My Hurricane Diablo ($15) was a massive portion of pasta, once again decked out with another purple orchid. Slightly chewy sun-dried tomato linguine held a conglomeration of perfectly cooked scallops, shrimps, clams and mussels. They were covered in a brandy red pepper marinara that lacked little, if any, character: the generous shavings of Parmesan did little to help.


Dave had fun picking an assortment of sushi from the a la cart list. The arrangement was truly breathtaking, a rainbow of pink, white, yellow, black, orange and purple (courtesy of the seemingly standard orchid). Spicy tuna, scallions and caviar formed the Agora Roll ($10), topped off with smooth pink rectangles of tuna sashimi. The Nitro Roll ($6) was its more basic cousin, simply tuna and scallions rolled up tight. The Dragon Roll ($9) indeed bore resemblance to that mythical creature. Cucumber, crab and caviar were wrapped with rice and avocado, striped with broiled freshwater eel. Rather than going over the individual flavors of each roll, we came to the same conclusion for each: not flavorful, not fresh in taste, and a real disappointment considering the artful construction.

The bar noise continued to spill in. The dining room, aside from us, remained empty. The waitress came to take our plates, and I asked if we could perhaps try desert. With a sorrowful smile, she replied that they didn't have any, and left to get our bill.


Lucky for us, there was a Cogan's Pizza right next door. We each enjoyed a happy slice, then sped off into the night.



Agora World Fusion Bar & Bistro
5860 Harbour View Boulevard, Suite 5A, Suffolk
Phone: 483-9199
Specialties: fusion-style entrees
Price range: appetizers: $9-$12; entrees: $13-$28; martinis: $8-$9
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-12 p.m. Friday; 5 p.m.-12 a.m. Saturday; closed Sundays
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: yes, at the bar only
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational in the dining room, noisy in the bar
Atmosphere: upscale casual
Additional Information: extensive martini list
Star rating: food 2 1/2, atmosphere 3 1/2, service 3
(out of five stars)

Neighbourly charm & more at Amore

Portsmouth has seen a steady sprinkling of new restaurants in and around the newly renovated High Street area: Amore Casual Italian has recently joined the ranks.
Styled as an unpretentious, family-friendly neighborhood fixture, it plays the part with classic red-and-white checked tablecloths, cozy brick walls and welcoming staff. As it wasn't preposterously hot outside, my husband and I elected to sit out on the patio, where a cooling breeze rustled enticingly through the vestibule.

The wait staff seemed slightly short-changed that night, but an apologetic waitress was soon tableside. Our perusal of the modest wine list yielded the Acinum Chianti ($30), a tight little package that was crafted for heady tomato sauce, Italian ham and pepperoni-rich pies. We placed our orders, then kicked back to watch the engaging panoply of folk out for their evening stroll.

The salads soon arrived, verdant and green. I had the simple dinner salad ($3.99), a modest and crisp assortment of iceberg, tomatoes, cucumbers and croutons. The basic house dressing veered a tidge to the sweet side, but was still quite nice.

Dave's Italian salad ($7.99) was rife with more crisp lettuce, tomatoes, croutons, red onion, rolled ham & cheese, and fat slices of sharp green pepper. The house dressing, once again, was a little sweet and in just the right amount.

We watched with barely-concealed awe as our neighbor's dishes came out: a fat chunk of lasagna issuing forth heady scents, and a portion of ziti that did much the same. Shortly after that, our entrees came out piping hot, and looking just as good.
Dave's spaghetti and meatballs ($8.99) came in a massive, contractor-sized portion. The pasta was generously doused in a slightly sweet marinara, dappled with hefty, hand-formed meatballs. It was an excellent home-spun version.

I had pizza, always a good benchmark for any such restaurant. My small pesto chicken pie ($6.99) didn't disappoint. The crust was nicely chewy, supporting layers of pungent pesto, cheese and chunks of pre-cooked chicken. A sprinkling of crushed red pepper is not only encouraged, but well received.

Although dessert ran the gamut from cheesecake to tiramisu, to ice cream, cake and cannolis, we were more than comfortably full from our hearty entrees. We took the check, and thanked our waitress once again for the low-key, relaxing experience.
Amore is all about casual comfort food, served in an easygoing, friendly environment.

Now that is- Amore!

(Ha... you know I couldn't resist the silly pun.)

Amoré Casual Italian
606 High Street, Portsmouth
Phone: 337-8382
Specialties: casual Italian
Price range: soups and salads: $4.49-$7.99; sandwiches/subs: $3.49-$6.49; entrees: $6.49-14.99; pizzas: 5.99-$13.99
Hours: 11 a.m.- 10 p.m., Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight, Friday-Saturday; 10 a.m.- 3 p.m., Sunday brunch
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: on the outdoor patio
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: conversational
Atmosphere: casual
Additional Information: kids’ menu
Star rating: food 3, atmosphere 3, service 3
(out of five stars)

Chicka-Chicka-Booom

I have a certain soft spot in my heart for veggie burgers. My first taste was in the Netherlands at, I'm slightly embarrassed to say, McDonald's. Intrigued by the mystery of a "groenteburger", I was soon biting into a tender, colorful patty that was pretty darned good. The following years saw me sampling the well-trod territory of Boca Burgers, Gardenburgers and Morning Star's varied line.

In all that time, I never really considered making my own. Enter Heidi Swanson's just-released cookbook, "Super Natural Cooking". In simple and approachable terms, she covers a variety of natural products, then translates them into mouth-watering recipes. It seemed irresistibly serendipitous that the first page I flipped open was the one that read "sprouted garbanzo burgers."

Not just your run'o'the mill veggie burger, Heidi's inspiration came from frustration: too many patties turned dusty and barren. She decided to make the 'meat' into the bun, and stick the toppings in between.

I'm sure you can guess that the main ingredient are sprouted garbanzo beans, but where to find them in town? I happened upon them in Harris Teeter's produce section, next to the pre-packaged herbs. Touted as crunchy sprouts, the 4-ounce unit contains a mixture of sprouted green peas, cow peas, red lentils and garbanzos. Perfect! I bought 2 packages (not quite enough), then made up the remainder with some drained-and-rinsed canned chickpeas.

After softening the sprouted beans in a steamer, I blitzed them in the food processor, along with the canned beans, eggs and a healthy pinch of salt.


Once proper chunky consistency had been achieved, I stirred in diced onions, cilantro, lemon zest, broccosprouts and breadcrumbs.

I left the mixture to sit for a few minutes, so as to absorb excess moisture, before patting them out in the familiar patty shape.

They firmed up quite nicely, and were soon cooking merrily away on the stove-top. After turning nicely golden, I set them on a rack to cool while chopping my fillings. I elected to go with microgreens, some juicy tomatoes, sauteed squash and another recipe from Heidi's book, crunchy slaw. Turning my attention back to the patties, I carefully began cutting-- the larger ones were easier, whereas the little cuties tended to go a bit crumbly.

I put together my first mini-burger and took a bite. The cilantro was barely detectable in the background, while the beany goodness was in full effect. Most interesting was the crunchy golden deliciousness of the outside, and the soft, luxuriously creamy interior.

It was really, really good, but I'm a fool for the crust. Since the pan was still warm, I slid two slices back in, cut side down. After just a couple of minutes over medium heat, they too developed that crunchy manna. This ain't a burger, this is a veritable veggie blessing!

Sprouted Garbanzo Burgers

2 1/2 cups sprouted garbanzo beans (chickpeas) OR canned garbanzos, drained and rinsed
4 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 onion, chopped
Grated zest of one large lemon
1 cup micro sprouts, chopped (try broccoli, onion, or alfalfa sprouts - optional)
1 cup toasted (whole-grain) bread crumbs
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil (or clarified butter)

If you are using sprouted garbanzos, steam them until just tender, about 10 minutes. Most of you will be using canned beans, so jump right in and combine the garbanzos, eggs, and salt in a food processor. Puree until the mixture is the consistency of a very thick, slightly chunky hummus.
Pour into a mixing bowl and stir in the cilantro, onion, zest, and sprouts. Add the breadcrumbs, stir, and let sit for a couple of minutes so the crumbs can absorb some of the moisture.
At this point, you should have a moist mixture that you can easily form into twelve 1 1/2-inch-thick patties. I err on the moist side here, because it makes for a nicely textured burger. You can always add more bread crumbs a bit at a time to firm up the dough if need be. Conversely, a bit of water or more egg can be used to moisten the batter.
Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium low, add 4 patties, cover, and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, until the bottoms begin to brown. Turn up the heat if there is no browning after 10 minutes. Flip the patties and cook the second side for 7 minutes, or until golden. Remove from the skillet and cool on a wire rack while you cook the remaining patties. Carefully cut each patty in half, insert your favorite fillings, and enjoy immediately.
Makes 12 mini burgers.
from Heidi Swanson's "Super Natural Cooking"

Shelley's notes: I used about half of a mixed-batch of sprouted beans, and made up the other half with canned garbanzos. My fillings included microgreens, sliced ripe tomatoes, sauteed squash and crunchy slaw (recipe follows). These are also just as great, uncut, served over fresh greens, and more of that lovely slaw salad.

Crunchy Slaw Salad

Creamy Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
juice of 1 lemon
fine-grain sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
splash of heavy cream

1 extra-crisp apple, peeled and cored
1 big squeeze of lemon juice
1 small Savoy cabbage
1 cup chopped toasted walnuts

To make the dressing, whisk the apple cider and lemon juice together in a small bowl, season with a few pinches of salt and a couple of grinds of pepper, then gradually whisk in the olive oil followed by the cream. Set aside.

Shred the apple on the large holes of a box grater (or use the grater attachment of a food processor), then put the shreds in a bowl of cold water with the squeeze of lemon; this will keep the apple from browning. Cut the cabbage into quarters and core each section, then cut them into a very fine chiffonade. Just before serving, drain the apples and toss with the cabbage, walnuts, and dressing in a large bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Serve immediately.
Serves 4-6.
from Heidi Swanson's "Super Natural Cooking".

Shelley's notes: Unable to find any reputable savoys, I used equal parts green and napa cabbages. I also used pine nuts in place of the walnuts.

Tap into the Taphouse... at Queen's Way

Norfolk has the Taphouse, while Hampton has the Taphouse at Queens Way. My husband Dave and I arrived there about 6:30 on a weeknight and found a very full house. The downstairs was completely thronged with full tables, while the bar was standing room only. Due to that— and the many people smoking— we headed up the broad wooden stairs.

There, in a quieter, slightly more intimate atmosphere, we found a few open tables. The lone waitress cheerfully motioned us to pick a table, so we settled against the wall under a colorful array of beer-centric posters. Soon bringing our menus, she took the time to go over the specials, deftly answering all of our questions. She gave this same cheerful, patient service to each and every table. This is the kind of person who makes waiting tables look and feel effortless.

She soon returned with two ice cold glasses. The smaller goblet-shaped one held my Allagash White Ale ($5), while Dave’s Konig Ludwig Hefeweizen ($5) came long and tall. Both were more than satisfactory.



Runners were up and down the stairs, making certain that no wait grew too long. The first dish up was the crispy chicken livers ($5). I’m not sure what I’d been expecting, but it certainly wasn’t the gleaming white plate in front of me. A carefully arranged stack of golden-crusted livers was dotted with generous chunks of bacon, topped by crunchy browned threads of onion and surrounded by artful balsamic squiggles. The livers were crunchy on the outside and pleasingly tender on the inside. And, of course, everything is better with bacon!



Next up was the Caesar salad ($7). Undoubtedly sized for sharing, the fresh greens were slightly over-dressed in a garlicky, tangy dressing. Toasty croutons and shreds of fresh Parmesan topped it off quite nicely.


For my entree, it was impossible to ignore the allure of fresh soft-shell crabs. These crispy little critters were a bit heavy-handed on the breading but delicious nonetheless. They also came with a portion of golden french fries, undoubtedly the best I’ve tried in quite some time. Lest I get lost in a world too filled with grease, a tiny plastic ramekin filled with creamy yet light coleslaw helped everything down.

Dave had no qualms about trying out the fried chicken plate ($10). This classic comfort food had a nicely spiced crust with just the right amount of crunch, revealing a surprisingly moist and tasty interior. It came with smooth mashed potatoes, covered in a peppery brown gravy, and the vegetables of the day. In this case carrots and broccoli, bright and tender-crisp.

The waitress, admirably handling the growing crowd, was quickly at tableside to offer dessert. The strawberry puff sounded great (desserts change daily), but the hour was growing late for us early risers.

The newest incarnation of the Taphouse sticks with its strongpoint: a slew of international beers coupled with a welcoming and knowledgeable staff. Gilding the lily is the well-prepared tavern fare that runs the gamut from seared sashimi tuna and Frito pie to jambalaya, fresh fish and serious sandwiches.

The Taphouse (Hampton)
17 East Queens Way, Hampton
Phone: 224-5829
Specialties: large variety of beers on tap/bottle; upscale casual tavern fare
Price range: appetizers: $4-$9; sandwiches/wraps: $6-$10; burgers: $6-$8; entrees: $9-$16; seafood: $12-$16
Hours: 11 a.m.- 2 a.m., 7 days a week
Alcohol: beer, wine, full bar
Smoking: yes
Vegetarian: yes
Wheelchair accessible: yes
Payment: cash, credit cards
Noise level: noisy
Atmosphere: cozy tavern
Additional Information: 37 beers on tap, 165 by the bottle (as of press time).
Star rating: food 3 1/2, atmosphere 3, service 4
(out of five stars)